Can you confirm if power sharing is working properly between the regular Gen 3 and the J1772 Gen 3? I would like to do a similar setup for a Tesla and non Tesla, but had read that when someone tested the power sharing between these on the Gen 2 versions, it gave them an error code. Trying to confirm it works between the two different Gen 3 before I purchase another charger.
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Gen 3 Tesla and Gen 3 J1772 Wall Connector Install Write up with Photos!
- Thread starter ReversePolarity
- Start date
My two GEN3's are "paired" with each other and seem to work well with one another. However, I did notice that when one vehicle finishes charging, I did not see the power sharing "reallocate" immediately.. I didn't really look at this any further.
Ok thank you, I believe the previous write up I was referring to with the Gen 2 received an error code when they attempted to pair them.
Unless that is #4/3 NM, seems the install is not to code? Looks like #6/3 NMI've got a Tesla Model Y charging using the mobile connector at 32 amps + NEMA 14-50 and a Jeep Wrangler charging using a standard 120V outlet which used to require 12+ hours to fully charge. Felt that it is time to do a much needed upgrade. Originally the electrician quoted $3000 for the parts and labor to run it across the garage... I thought that was too much so decided to do it myself with the help of a family member. Note... I'm not a licensed electrician, this stuff can really hurt you if you don't know what you're doing.
Gen 3 wall connectors... 1 with Tesla plug and 1 with J1772 plug
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This was configured as a 40A circuit off a 50A breaker. A new circuit was run using ~30' of 1/2" EMT conduit and 8 AWG cable from home depot from a new subpanel that the solar company installed in my garage. Some wiring from the solar circuit had to be modified to accommodate (new ground bar was added, not pictured). Also bought a conduit bender to do a few 90 degree bends.
View attachment 881505
Conduit and wire was run above the cars in the 2-car garage into the other side of the garage. Template from the wall connector was used to drill the mounting holes
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Base plate mounted and the wires secured. This was 2x 8AWG hot cables (120v each) and a 10awg ground cable (green).
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Lastly push the main body of the wall connector on secure the 4 screws and we're finished!
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Jeep is happily charging using Tesla Wall connectorI was also surprised that the quality of Tesla's J1772 connector is much, much better than even public charging stations and most of the J1772 connectors out there. Its very well made. This J1772 Wall connector can also charge your Tesla... if you use the J1772 to Tesla adapter that came with the car. I did just that, to test the current and charging speed lol.
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Task # 2 : Replace NEMA 14-50 plug with Gen 3 wall connector (i always charged my MY using a wall connector at 32A)
NEMA 14-50 uses 2 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground and since the Wall connector uses 2 hot and 1 ground, one of the wires wasn't needed.
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I found that the electrician used a punch out located low in the existing panel, and my OCD self wanted the wall connector higher up the wall. Luckily, the Wall connector is to be installed in my garage right behind the breaker box so i just had to find a relatively safe place to punch a new hole, so i picked this spot about 12" higher (feel free to let me know if i completely chose the wrong spot).
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A hole was drilled in my panel using a step drill
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Also drilled a hole thru the drywall in my garage.
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To be continued
IF you installed a 60 amp breaker, its not to code, has to be 4 gauge NM
Currently working on a 5 gen 3 install. All #6 thhn in MC with 90C wiring!! Each has its own breaker into a 200amp subpanel.
With sharing, thinking of setting panel to 120 amps. I assume if I want J1772 on a car, I could just buy the J1772 telsa, and just
swap out the body, but all wiring stays in place.
With sharing, thinking of setting panel to 120 amps. I assume if I want J1772 on a car, I could just buy the J1772 telsa, and just
swap out the body, but all wiring stays in place.
It takes a few minutes but it eventually gets there.
When I tested two gen 3 units… they were each individually set up for a maximum of 48A but together I capped them at 64A.
With two Teslas charging they were each de-rated to 32A.
After stopping charging on one car, it took 5 minutes for the other car charging to go from 32A to 48A.
The two wall connectors are each their own, independent circuit with individual breakers going into the panel. The 60 amp setting is in the Wall connector setup, which denotes the "max combined draw" allowable by both connectors. Wall connectors are not daisy chained or connected to each other in any way. They "communicate" with each other via wifi. It is two separate 40-amp circuits coming out of the pensl.
8 awg copper is perfectly fine for a 240V 40A run. One was less than 5'. We've crossed checked it on several calculators and code before proceeding. It was too long ago that we did the install, but if you see any literature that says otherwise please do let me know.
Thanks for the feedback. I didn't wait that long but I'll definitely have a look!
I thought the wall connectors say must have a correctly wired 60 amp breaker. This is what I have on my 5 wall connectors., full #6 THHN per wall connector., NO nm cable!!!!
Nope. Terminal blocks are rated to accept as small as 12 AWG wire:
And it has settings to support a breaker/wiring as small as 15A:
No, the wall connector is a variable power device that you configure for what level of circuit you are going to use.
Well, that's ridiculous. There is nothing wrong with NM cable. It's just like choosing either a hammer or a screwdriver. Either one can be the correct thing, depending on what the job is. NM cable is the proper intended thing for sliding down inside insulated sheet rock walls. It's made for that. Or it can go above ceilings or in crawl spaces. These are the intended uses.
The only bad thing is people just not getting it right about what size of wire gauge they need to use, and that isn't the fault of NM cable--it's just people making mistakes.
Yep, if you buy very expensive 4/3 NM, then yep speced for 60 amps.
I just want to see a person get a permit with a device saying it must have a 60 amp breaker, and see if the inspector approves with 6/3 NM, let alone 8/3 nm. Mine did, but once I told him the specs, he ate crow and forced the installer to remove the 6/3 and put in 4/3, a 5K mistake.
Get a permit, and see if an installer would sign off, I am guessing no way since the product says must have a 60 amp breaker
If you want to run 48 amps you'd need a 60 amp breaker (plus the appropriate spec'ed wire and associated conduit.
Wall connector can handle a variety of voltages, so you just decide what you want to do. And if your city/installer wont sign off on it, you can show him this manual, or find another installer.
Nowhere in the manual does it say it requires a 60 amp breaker.
The only reference I see is:
It says for maximum power output you need a 60A, but then says if you can't support that then pick from a list of smaller breaker sizes.
It also shows when setup with different sizes:
And references a setup with two 60A, one 50A, and one 20A breaker:
That surely means that a 60A breaker isn't required.
If one has a permit, with correct parts such that the inspector signs off, great. But to imply all inspectors are going to ignore
that one can make this work at the max specs, well, to each their own.
But my point is I have read many posts where folks try to say #6 NM is code on a 60 amp breaker, which it is not.
davewill
Active Member
Stubborn, aren't we? Nobody implied any such thing. Everyone here is merely saying that a 60a breaker is not required by Tesla and generally not required by inspectors.
We have had reports here and there of individual inspectors insisting that the WC be put on a max sized circuit. We think those inspectors are wrong, but it's difficult to argue with them, and they get the final say (short of some appeal process).
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