Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

[Kali_3]

I just received my DYI harness for the front and rear speakers. I ordered it on Thanksgiving. The kit came with no directions or tools. I have a Sep 2020 built M3 so no rear speakers. Not sure if it's worth installing the kit after reading this forum. Is activating just the front speakers worth it? Greatly appreciate to hear your thoughts, experiences with the front speakes activation.

So I went back to the installer and he tweaked the amp and set up for me and it’s a little better. I realized all the inactive speakers are actually working. LOL. Still, overall , it sounds pretty good. Kinda notice when I raise the volume above 50 pct , it’s sounds better but not into cranking It up that high. I think , that will be as much as I’ll put into the car for now. LOL. I’m sure adding that 10 inch sub will be huge for you.

I tried 50% volume and it's too loud for my taste. It hurts my ears and gets exhausting after just a minute of hearing. I get tiny more bass setting the fader a little bit to the rear. If you line it up to the headrest rather than front of it. I didn't want to spend more but I already have the sub + amp so might as well hook it up.

 

[Kali_3]

I just received my DYI harness for the front and rear speakers. I ordered it on Thanksgiving. The kit came with no directions or tools. I have a Sep 2020 built M3 so no rear speakers. Not sure if it's worth installing the kit after reading this forum. Is activating just the front speakers worth it? Greatly appreciate to hear your thoughts, experiences with the front speakes activation.

For me it's not worth it. I like more mid-bass sound. You will lose the punchiness of the door woofer. It's just personal preference. Maybe you like more bright and better sound staging. The harness will give you that. I don't recommend just the DIY harness alone. Atleast get the Ver. A so you get the sub (which is more like a woofer) so you still get the mid-bass punch that you lose from the door woofers. If you do install it. I highly recommend adding a sub to complete the system.

 

[GT!!]

I haven't posted any updates in a while, but here is an update of where I'm at with the version B kit. I'm happy to report that I'm very satisfied with the upgrade, but it was a bit of a struggle. Here is what I have done:
- fix the rear speaker harness to connect factory speakers
- reverse purple sub wires
- apply DSP fix.
The above made it pretty good, but today I did the following:
- increase bass boost to full (gain was already full).
- tweak DSP settings. I found that reducing the speaker volumes here and adding more bass and treble made it sound much better (to my ear, obviously this is a personal thing). I found the Hannshow DSP settings made the mids a bit overpowering on some songs. If anyone would like me to post the DSP settings I think I saved them to a file.

I can now feel the bass and have a nice pleasing sound that is much better than stock. The sub does not pound, so some may still be disappointed with it but I'm happy with what it delivers. It should have been easier, but I'm very pleased with the final result. I have not experienced the lack of bass from the front doors that people with Version E are reporting, and I have no problem with chime volume.

 

[kiNGng3]

I haven't posted any updates in a while, but here is an update of where I'm at with the version B kit. I'm happy to report that I'm very satisfied with the upgrade, but it was a bit of a struggle. Here is what I have done:
- fix the rear speaker harness to connect factory speakers
- reverse purple sub wires
- apply DSP fix.
The above made it pretty good, but today I did the following:
- increase bass boost to full (gain was already full).
- tweak DSP settings. I found that reducing the speaker volumes here and adding more bass and treble made it sound much better (to my ear, obviously this is a personal thing). I found the Hannshow DSP settings made the mids a bit overpowering on some songs. If anyone would like me to post the DSP settings I think I saved them to a file.

I can now feel the bass and have a nice pleasing sound that is much better than stock. The sub does not pound, so some may still be disappointed with it but I'm happy with what it delivers. It should have been easier, but I'm very pleased with the final result. I have not experienced the lack of bass from the front doors that people with Version E are reporting, and I have no problem with chime volume.

Good to hear @GT!!

I'm happy with my version B now as well after so much work and having Hansshow plagerize our testing and pictures. Such a shame they resorted to these lowly tactics.

I too, reduced my dB volume in the DSP and for the front I actually cut the bass for the mirror and tweeter speakers. I upped the boost and gain to almost 100 as well. Lucky for us the version B didn't affect the door woofers. Both door woofers and subwoofer present decent bass. I'm pretty happy as it's pleasing to my ears now. The Hansshow DSP settings were garbage as they overpowered the mids so much that it took away from everything else!

 

[Mitev]

I haven't posted any updates in a while, but here is an update of where I'm at with the version B kit. I'm happy to report that I'm very satisfied with the upgrade, but it was a bit of a struggle. Here is what I have done:
- fix the rear speaker harness to connect factory speakers
- reverse purple sub wires
- apply DSP fix.
The above made it pretty good, but today I did the following:
- increase bass boost to full (gain was already full).
- tweak DSP settings. I found that reducing the speaker volumes here and adding more bass and treble made it sound much better (to my ear, obviously this is a personal thing). I found the Hannshow DSP settings made the mids a bit overpowering on some songs. If anyone would like me to post the DSP settings I think I saved them to a file.

I can now feel the bass and have a nice pleasing sound that is much better than stock. The sub does not pound, so some may still be disappointed with it but I'm happy with what it delivers. It should have been easier, but I'm very pleased with the final result. I have not experienced the lack of bass from the front doors that people with Version E are reporting, and I have no problem with chime volume.

Hi, I’d like to test your xps file since you seem finally happy with the results. Can you send it to me? Thank you

 

[GT!!]

Hi, I’d like to test your xps file since you seem finally happy with the results. Can you send it to me? Thank you

Here you go. Remove the .txt from the filename.

 

[kiNGng3]

Here you go. Remove the .txt from the filename.

But we have B and he has E so the software won't load it. The DSP's are different. It won't work the same for @Mitev.

 

[badiban]

I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve read through this thread, but I think I made the decision to do the DIY harness, and a separate subwoofer from JLAudio later.

I’ve seen some conflicting info regarding the DIY harness, and hoping to hear some clarification now that the product has been out for a while.
1. If I am doing that install, do I need to worry about overloading the OEM amp?
2. Can I listen to music at more than 50% volume without ruining the speakers or amp or distortion?
3. Will it reduce the bass output from the front door woofers (I currently have the bass in the balancer at about +5)?

Thanks!

 

[Brendwal]

For me it's not worth it. I like more mid-bass sound. You will lose the punchiness of the door woofer. It's just personal preference. Maybe you like more bright and better sound staging. The harness will give you that. I don't recommend just the DIY harness alone. Atleast get the Ver. A so you get the sub (which is more like a woofer) so you still get the mid-bass punch that you lose from the door woofers. If you do install it. I highly recommend adding a sub to complete the system.

You CAN get good sound with the DIY version, but yes if you don’t go into your EQ settings, the sound will be too harsh while losing woofer power in the front doors. The key thing to make it sound good AFTER the DIY harness is to make your EQ like the picture attached. Brings down the harsh highs and brings back the woofers from the doors. I’ve actually tweaked up the 5.5 to 6.5 since this picture.

 

[Kali_3]

View attachment 617507
You CAN get good sound with the DIY version, but yes if you don’t go into your EQ settings, the sound will be too harsh while losing woofer power in the front doors. The key thing to make it sound good AFTER the DIY harness is to make your EQ like the picture attached. Brings down the harsh highs and brings back the woofers from the doors. I’ve actually tweaked up the 5.5 to 6.5 since this picture.

I have Bass and Mid-Bass at 5 or 6. It's hard to tell if the bass is from the woofer or from the sub. I have a version A. I wanted more kick from the bass. I'm gonna remove the Hansshow sub and mount the amp and LOC there and the 10" sub in the sub trunk cargo for a cleaner look. I was planning of running both but I think I'll just go with one 10".

Before installing the Hansshow. I have the Bass and Mid-Bass at 4 and it punch harder.

 

[BMW740iL]

I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve read through this thread, but I think I made the decision to do the DIY harness, and a separate subwoofer from JLAudio later.

How do you connect the JLAudio (or any other subwoofer with amp) to the DIY harness?

 

[badiban]

View attachment 617507
You CAN get good sound with the DIY version, but yes if you don’t go into your EQ settings, the sound will be too harsh while losing woofer power in the front doors. The key thing to make it sound good AFTER the DIY harness is to make your EQ like the picture attached. Brings down the harsh highs and brings back the woofers from the doors. I’ve actually tweaked up the 5.5 to 6.5 since this picture.

These are about the same settings I use with the factory setup, but I want to add the DIY harness. Are you able to listen at high volumes? Do you have any issues with distortion?

 

[badiban]

How do you connect the JLAudio (or any other subwoofer with amp) to the DIY harness?

Haven't really dug into this in detail, but my understanding is you have to tap the front door woofers for signal, and use the Penthouse under the rear seats for power.

 

[Brendwal]

I have Bass and Mid-Bass at 5 or 6. It's hard to tell if the bass is from the woofer or from the sub. I have a version A. I wanted more kick from the bass. I'm gonna remove the Hansshow sub and mount the amp and LOC there and the 10" sub in the sub trunk cargo for a cleaner look. I was planning of running both but I think I'll just go with one 10".

Before installing the Hansshow. I have the Bass and Mid-Bass at 4 and it punch harder.

Yes my EQ recommendations above to get the door woofer punch back is for the DIY version (activation harness for inactive speakers only, no sub, not Version A). I understand it is also a problem with other versions, but this was just for the DIY harness only. Works well.

 

[Brendwal]

These are about the same settings I use with the factory setup, but I want to add the DIY harness. Are you able to listen at high volumes? Do you have any issues with distortion?

High volumes yes. Distortion no.

It's a nice upgrade for $80USD. But I miss the bass from an actual sub. So I'm selling this harness soon and already have a Version F on the way. Will install myself and see how is goes (I'm sure there will be a lot of custom DSP tweaking, which I'm happy to do to get everything nicely balanced - as best as it can be!).

 

[fritzner]

Well, the Rockford Fosgate P300-8P will fit in the factory location!!

I installed the sub along with the Hansshow DIY harness. My SR is a 12/19 build so I have the rear parcel speakers. But my harness had those left and right reverse, so I had to switch the wires (there is a youtube video out there about it).
It sounds so much better now. I haven't compared it to the premium stereo in our LRY. Overall I think it is very similar, but the SR definitely has more bass!

I tapped the signal off the Hansshow harness and got power and ground from under the seat. I took the audio
signals from the front woofers. I tapped into the pigtail that goes connects directly to the car's brains. Pics from Peter..

The bass control knob is mounted with 2 tiny screws in the carpet so you would never see the holes if removed. I wrapped the knob in the same vinyl as my center consol.

Other than the 2" of wire going to the base knob everything is completely hidden. Also everything can be complete uninstalled.
I did bend the bracket near the tail light that is typically for the carpet backing panel, but it could be easily bent back into position.

The sub just barely fits and it mostly just wedged in there with foam. I have 2 brackets coming off the 1 anchor point that I bent. It seems very solid, but was a bit tricky figuring out how to get it in there. I may add another bracket or 2 and I will trim back the foam after I test it out for a bit of time. I also installed some Noico (dynamat).

I need to spend some time adjusting the car's EQ and the settings on the subwoofer, but so far I am very happy!!

 

[tlr1000]

Well, the Rockford Fosgate P300-8P will fit in the factory location!!

I installed the sub along with the Hansshow DIY harness. My SR is a 12/19 build so I have the rear parcel speakers. But my harness had those left and right reverse, so I had to switch the wires (there is a youtube video out there about it).
It sounds so much better now. I haven't compared it to the premium stereo in our LRY. Overall I think it is very similar, but the SR definitely has more bass!

I tapped the signal off the Hansshow harness and got power and ground from under the seat. I took the audio
signals from the front woofers. I tapped into the pigtail that goes connects directly to the car's brains. Pics from Peter..

The bass control knob is mounted with 2 tiny screws in the carpet so you would never see the holes if removed. I wrapped the knob in the same vinyl as my center consol.

Other than the 2" of wire going to the base knob everything is completely hidden. Also everything can be complete uninstalled.
I did bend the bracket near the tail light that is typically for the carpet backing panel, but it could be easily bent back into position.

The sub just barely fits and it mostly just wedged in there with foam. I have 2 brackets coming off the 1 anchor point that I bent. It seems very solid, but was a bit tricky figuring out how to get it in there. I may add another bracket or 2 and I will trim back the foam after I test it out for a bit of time. I also installed some Noico (dynamat).

I need to spend some time adjusting the car's EQ and the settings on the subwoofer, but so far I am very happy!!

View attachment 617624 View attachment 617625 View attachment 617626 View attachment 617627 View attachment 617628 View attachment 617629

Good work! I like the fact that your install is barely visible once all panels go back and doesn't take away useful storage space. Also the RF is a good sub choice. I assume your tapped signals go directly in the sub and there is no LOC (line out converter) needed. Also, if you find another spot to add a bracket for better bracing, that would probably help with not just securing the sub but sound improvement too...but you knew that already .

 

[tlr1000]

Not really. Just a few screws and the speaker itself is plug and play. In my opinion, Light Harmonic is top top.

Did you have a reference somewhere online to remove the dash? I know there's a very limited amount of space due to the slope of the front windshield, but with low profile tools, do you think it's possible to replace the 3 dash speakers without dash removal?

 

[anon149825]

I just updated my version B install with a better wiring harness. The sub now actually works. However, now I see on my screen a warning message "vehicle will consume more energy while idle. Use mobile app to schedule service."

It is the same as you see here: https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaModel3/comments/j2xkzj/error_message_vehicle_will_consume_more_power/

I'm guessing/ hoping this will go away eventually, because I don't want to be caught with a flat 12v battery!

Any thoughts or pointers?

 

[kiNGng3]

I just updated my version B install with a better wiring harness. The sub now actually works. However, now I see on my screen a warning message "vehicle will consume more energy while idle. Use mobile app to schedule service."

It is the same as you see here: https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaModel3/comments/j2xkzj/error_message_vehicle_will_consume_more_power/

I'm guessing/ hoping this will go away eventually, because I don't want to be caught with a flat 12v battery!

Any thoughts or pointers?

How did you update your harness? With a new one from hansshow or from another company?

Interesting you got the power message because version B amp is running very low power consumption.