Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

[beachsideev]

Well, I'm not sure what my problem is, if there is one.

I looked at the diy harness that connects between the ice and the factory wiring and the front door woofers do get passed through without going to the crossover box. I checked continuity for all of the orange wires (hansshows wire color for signals that are passed through) and nothing is crossed. That part appears to be wired correctly. I used this diagram to determine the speaker wiring at the ice connector:

Next I did some a/b testing with the extra speakers installed or removed by pausing a song in the middle and adding or removing the harness at the ice. If you don't plug the connectors in all the way you can still get conductivity but it doesn't latch so removing it is a lot easier.

The bass response sounded exactly the same to me with or without the harness installed. I tested the polarity again with the app and I got different results for the door woofers this time. Now both door woofers appear to have the correct polarity. One thing I did do differently this time when testing the polarity was i unplugged one of the connectors going into the crossover box to disable the door tweeters. I'm not sure why the door tweeter would be causing issues with the app, especially with an 80 hz pulse, but it seemed to give more consistent results with the door tweeters disabled.

I tested the rear shelf speaker I swapped yesterday and now that one is being detected as being backwards. Grrrrr. Again I was having trouble getting consistent results until I placed a towel on the back glass above the speaker to try to eliminate reflections off the glass. This seemed to make the results much more repeatable. Again I think the app might be too sensitive to reflections which cause erroneous results.

Anyway, I'm not sure what to do now. I have the harness hooked back up but I haven't reinstalled the panel to get at the wiring. I will probably undo the polarity swap I did to the right read shelf speaker. I also might try another app first.

What I am going to do now though is turn on the stereo and wax the car because that requires much less thought.

 

[badiban]

Well, I'm not sure what my problem is, if there is one.

I looked at the diy harness that connects between the ice and the factory wiring and the front door woofers do get passed through without going to the crossover box. I checked continuity for all of the orange wires (hansshows wire color for signals that are passed through) and nothing is crossed. That part appears to be wired correctly. I used this diagram to determine the speaker wiring at the ice connector:

Next I did some a/b testing with the extra speakers installed or removed by pausing a song in the middle and adding or removing the harness at the ice. If you don't plug the connectors in all the way you can still get conductivity but it doesn't latch so removing it is a lot easier.

The bass response sounded exactly the same to me with or without the harness installed. I tested the polarity again with the app and I got different results for the door woofers this time. Now both door woofers appear to have the correct polarity. One thing I did do differently this time when testing the polarity was i unplugged one of the connectors going into the crossover box to disable the door tweeters. I'm not sure why the door tweeter would be causing issues with the app, especially with an 80 hz pulse, but it seemed to give more consistent results with the door tweeters disabled.

I tested the rear shelf speaker I swapped yesterday and now that one is being detected as being backwards. Grrrrr. Again I was having trouble getting consistent results until I placed a towel on the back glass above the speaker to try to eliminate reflections off the glass. This seemed to make the results much more repeatable. Again I think the app might be too sensitive to reflections which cause erroneous results.

Anyway, I'm not sure what to do now. I have the harness hooked back up but I haven't reinstalled the panel to get at the wiring. I will probably undo the polarity swap I did to the right read shelf speaker. I also might try another app first.

What I am going to do now though is turn on the stereo and wax the car because that requires much less thought.

Overall, would you say you’re happy with the sound?

 

[beachsideev]

Overall, would you say you’re happy with the sound?

Good question. Yeah, I am still happy with the sound. The vocals are definitely improved and the sound stage feels larger.

However there is no getting around the fact that the system needs a sub. And I'm not convinced that sealing one up in the trunk is the best spot for it, either.

 

[Ry3n]

Good question. Yeah, I am still happy with the sound. The vocals are definitely improved and the sound stage feels larger.

However there is no getting around the fact that the system needs a sub. And I'm not convinced that sealing one up in the trunk is the best spot for it, either.

Not sure where else a sub might fit?

If you are concerned about being 'sealed', you could always cut out the center rear dash section to be like the first Model 3s that rolled out:

Shown at ~:50 mark -

 

[scramjet]

the harness installs between the ice and the oem wiring so there are two connectors where they could screw up the polarity. the tester says that only one of my door woofers is backwards, so something isn't right.



seems like you have experienced for yourself how inconsistent hansshow is. do you think the problem is actually with the tesla wiring? I kind of doubt it.

Since I have to open up the passenger side to fix this, I'm going to remove the hansshow wiring and plug the factory connector back into the ice so I can test the polarities again as it came from the factory. That will give me the baseline I need.

I'm saying that there isn't necessarily a problem and that the app is inconsistent at best (from my experience) and that the speakers may even be reversed polarity for some but not all frequencies. As long as speakers that are facing each other are the same polarity at the same frequencies then there is no issue. The app was very unreliable for some speakers but for others like the door woofers and trunk sub i was getting consistent results.

 

[Swamprat96]

Good question. Yeah, I am still happy with the sound. The vocals are definitely improved and the sound stage feels larger.

However there is no getting around the fact that the system needs a sub. And I'm not convinced that sealing one up in the trunk is the best spot for it, either.

I fitted an OEM sub some time back using the alpine KTX-44u amp and picked up the feed from the right rear door woofer. It made a huge difference- install details here (excuse the ordering of the doco- WIP ) tonyholdgate.wordpress.com. You could use any sub and the alpine amp is happy driving it without 12V power warnings. I've ordered the DIY harness only now and would have to add the rear speakers back in as mine was built May 2020.

After reading this entire thread I'm not sure I will proceed with the harness. The chimes are already loud enough in Joe mode and I really don't need more treble. Adding the rear speakers back in is a rear shelf out job as those speaker grills will not come out from the top (you'll just bend and wreck them if you try- that F type hanshow video is wrong- those grills have been out before). Thats a pig of a job and hard to line up the rear brake light putting it back in.

So all this work to get more treble, overly loud chimes and perhaps have to reverse polarity for the rear speakers is sounding like more trouble than its worth. Mine is due next week

 

[Ry3n]

My Version F has shipped, and today I stumbled on this video:

Hansshow SR Audio Upgrade Version F installation tutorial

Interesting note in this video: at the end it says the sub needs to be set to 0°, but I had to set mine to 180° to really hear it from the front seat while driving. So keep that in mind when seeing this up.

I also needed to set the DSP volume down a bit to match the center channel and not over power everything else. (Same as the Version E feedback)

 

[HitUpOlas]

I completed the version F install earlier today. Struggled with taking the video and I have had a lot of editing to do. Not going to be the best DIY video but it will give you a good idea what’s involved.

My initial review is the version F is awesome! The sound now comes from up high and behind. I’m picking up more high notes and experience a much fuller stereo experience. Enough bass now to shake the rear view and side view mirrors. Kids like how the back seat vibrates. The fader works perfectly and I’m actually happy with the DSP settings and just made minor adjustments with the factory EQ. The chime volume has increased, I turned on Joe mode near the end of my test drive so I really can’t comment how much that helped.

The kit itself came very complete. I used my own zip ties, electrical tape, two screws for the subwoofer bracket and a nut that is needed as an OEM stud that would have been used on the premium is used for this subwoofer.

 

[HitUpOlas]

Took the Tesla out again for another drive. In Joe mode the turn signals and notifications are a good volume.

Thanks to all of the beta testers out there who helped Hansshow develop a great product.

Here is a link to the video I made today. The very end has some samples. I attempted to show how the fade works correctly but you can’t tell by how the sound recorded.

 

[black+white]

Interesting note in this video: at the end it says the sub needs to be set to 0°, but I had to set mine to 180° to really hear it from the front seat while driving. So keep that in mind when seeing this up.

I also needed to set the DSP volume down a bit to match the center channel and not over power everything else. (Same as the Version E feedback)

How much of a setback will it be if I do not have a Windows computer to admin the DSP?

 

[HitUpOlas]

How much of a setback will it be if I do not have a Windows computer to admin the DSP?

I thought from previous reviews I would be playing with the DSP settings. No need for me with the setup that it comes programmed with now in my opinion. I’m sure some people who want a particular effect may want to tune the sound more.

As far as the center channel... the car does sound like it is more in stereo ( sound coming form left and right ) That would make sense due to the activation of the additional 6 speakers. Maybe the center channel is weakened or maybe its just the additional speakers. Dunno, I can say I like this much better.

The 0-180 phase is set with the remote for the subwoofer. I am going to play with the settings some more now that the trunk is closed up. Currently I’m at 60% gain, 50% freq and 0 on the phase. I have my remote strategically mounted in the trunk liner for easy adjustments.

Door woofers definitely sound the same. I paid a lot of attention to that as it was my biggest concern. I did not want to lose bass while adding a subwoofer.

 

[beachsideev]

Glad you like it! It sounds like hansshow has worked out their quality issues and nailed down the settings. Hopefully they stick with this config for a while so others can get the same experience as you did.

Guess I was wrong about the trunk being a bad spot for the sub!

 

[Ry3n]

How much of a setback will it be if I do not have a Windows computer to admin the DSP?

Not much for most people. The DSP will run all of your speakers except the door woofers and the center channel. But you might not notice since everything else is there and sounds better and louder.

But if you can adjust it, even a little I think it's better. I haven't played with any of the eq settings yet, just the main volume.

So far overall sound and tune is great.

 

[joeyjperez]

HitUpOlas, congrats on the install! What year is your Model 3? Has anyone installed the Hansshow Version F to a 2021 Model 3 SR+?

 

[amorris]

HitUpOlas, congrats on the install! What year is your Model 3? Has anyone installed the Hansshow Version F to a 2021 Model 3 SR+?

My guess is you'll want to wait on that. The 2021 has some wiring changes so there is no plug for the tweeter on the right side of the car. I know Hansshow is working on an updated connector for their kits and is about a month out.

 

[KitchenerSR+]

I have the version B woofer and it is quite disappointing. I figured it would be after seeing how small the power wires are for it. How does the OEM style 'premium' woofer sound? I've definitely lost some bass in the door woofers and the little weak version B sub doesn't overcome what bass used to be there.

 

[HitUpOlas]

HitUpOlas, congrats on the install! What year is your Model 3? Has anyone installed the Hansshow Version F to a 2021 Model 3 SR+?

My car is an AUG 2020 build so it had no rear speakers. I have other videos in this thread and on YouTube that show how to add the rear deck speakers. Hansshow shows how to add them on their Version F install video but I wouldn’t do it that way. Taking the rear shelf out and modifying it takes some effort and care but it will ensure your speaker grills do not get deformed and go back in correctly.

amorris: good info about the 2021. Lessens the sting of being in the last batch of cars before the refresh!

 

[chopdlck]

I have the version B woofer and it is quite disappointing. I figured it would be after seeing how small the power wires are for it. How does the OEM style 'premium' woofer sound? I've definitely lost some bass in the door woofers and the little weak version B sub doesn't overcome what bass used to be there.

try reversing the purple wires for the sub, that fixed my low sub volume for version b

 

[n30x]

Thanks! It was important to me not to take up any usable space. But if anyone doesn't want to hassle with squeezing the Rockford Fosgate into the factory location, the P300-8P (and even the 10P) fit nicely in the sub trunk.
I tapped my signals from L&R front woofers in the Hansshow harness. The sub has high level inputs and audio turnout that is working perfectly.
I am going to add another bracket, remove any of the excess foam, and add a bit more Noico (dynamat) to tighten the sound up a bit.

Hi fritzner,
which settings do you use with the Rockford sub? I've ordered one as I am very unhappy with the version b performance and had seen you post that it almost perfectly fits into the space (don't want to lose space in the trunk or sub trunk). Also I would be interested in more information on how you mounted it if you add any additional bracket.
Thanks

 

[Swamprat96]

Thanks for the video. I'm about to attempt the rear deck removal to refit the missing speakers in my May 2020 build car following your video. Did you have many dramas getting it back in again? I saw your mention re the clips in the video. I also saw someone else having issue lining up the rear brake light.
I'm not so bothered by the refresh - USB C is nowehere near as reliable as USB A and the console is meh. rear boot electric lift would have been a nice to have but no big deal