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This is pretty much why I decided to go my own route with a high end DSP like the Match up 7. It uses the Helix DSP software which is super powerful and customizable. Pair that with a calibrated mic and a copy of REW and you should be able to get an amazing tune. My goal is to basically do DSP/AMP and sub for around $1300. But that’s also picking a quality 10” sub (which sorry, those fosgate self powered ones are just meh)
So its been a while since i did my version E and after lots of adjustments, finally got it working right, haven't posted since, but i wanted to give a few words of encouragement to people thinking of using hanshow, and can only speak for verisions e and f, i just recently helped a couple people install 2 version E and a version F, looks like all the troubleshooting and developement we did for hanshow finally paid of for some people, because this were both plug and play and good out the box, so thats nice for new buyers, for us earliy adopters guess we get the unofficial bragging rights of having helped develop this final product
This is pretty much why I decided to go my own route with a high end DSP like the Match up 7. It uses the Helix DSP software which is super powerful and customizable. Pair that with a calibrated mic and a copy of REW and you should be able to get an amazing tune. My goal is to basically do DSP/AMP and sub for around $1300. But that’s also picking a quality 10” sub (which sorry, those fosgate self powered ones are just meh)
No need to apologize. You are willing to spend a lot more on the sound than I am and it will show. Otherwise, I wouldn't have went the Hansshow route. I used to have two 12" subs in my car as a silly teenager so I get the desire for more bass. I think the Rockford solution will be okay, not great, but not mediocre like the Hansshow Version B sub.
I purchased version B and had the issue with the rear L/R balance being switched. I was able to fix the rear shelf speakers by swapping the cables as shown in this clip,I've installed 10 in the last month, some had the balance crossed in the rear and had to be fixed while others were fine.
Thanks for the note. I went ahead and followed your picture and was able to make the swap! One of the wire colors didn't match but everything was to the T in that diagram positionally. Now time to sit back and enjoy!you'll probably have to swap them at the harness that plugs into the oem connector that you unplugged from the ice. I posted a picture 2 pages back that shows the wire colors for each speaker.
Well, I'm not sure what my problem is, if there is one.
I looked at the diy harness that connects between the ice and the factory wiring and the front door woofers do get passed through without going to the crossover box. I checked continuity for all of the orange wires (hansshows wire color for signals that are passed through) and nothing is crossed. That part appears to be wired correctly. I used this diagram to determine the speaker wiring at the ice connector:
Next I did some a/b testing with the extra speakers installed or removed by pausing a song in the middle and adding or removing the harness at the ice. If you don't plug the connectors in all the way you can still get conductivity but it doesn't latch so removing it is a lot easier.
The bass response sounded exactly the same to me with or without the harness installed. I tested the polarity again with the app and I got different results for the door woofers this time. Now both door woofers appear to have the correct polarity. One thing I did do differently this time when testing the polarity was i unplugged one of the connectors going into the crossover box to disable the door tweeters. I'm not sure why the door tweeter would be causing issues with the app, especially with an 80 hz pulse, but it seemed to give more consistent results with the door tweeters disabled.
I tested the rear shelf speaker I swapped yesterday and now that one is being detected as being backwards. Grrrrr. Again I was having trouble getting consistent results until I placed a towel on the back glass above the speaker to try to eliminate reflections off the glass. This seemed to make the results much more repeatable. Again I think the app might be too sensitive to reflections which cause erroneous results.
Anyway, I'm not sure what to do now. I have the harness hooked back up but I haven't reinstalled the panel to get at the wiring. I will probably undo the polarity swap I did to the right read shelf speaker. I also might try another app first.
What I am going to do now though is turn on the stereo and wax the car because that requires much less thought.
This is located behind the bottom panel on passenger side. This plug is what you need to pull out from the OEM AMP and plug into the harness you ordered.Where is this connection? I’m looking to install my DIY harness soon and I am curious where all the connections go.
I've ordered the NVX XLCA2 line output converter to clean out the door woofer feed and RCA output to the subwoofer directly. That way I think I should be able to get more bass by correcting the bass roll off and controlling it at that point. A bonus is I also get a bass knob to control from inside the car.
The XLCA2 is very low powered so I'll connect it to VC Right and ground in the trunk cavity.
What type of enclosure are you going to do? I think I would end up doing fiberglass(or stacked/combo) in the factory sub location. But I would want the amp and DSP back there as well. Would be interesting.
This is GOOD news!Just finished my Version F install, after having been one of the first to install the $80US DIY activation harness version. While the DIY was decent as it did activate my tweeters, I still lacked the punch of a sub, so decided to wait and see how other versions evolved and played out. After 58 pages in this thread - lol - I can confirm that Version F hits the mark out of the box. Roughly 2.5-3 hours to remove the original DIY harness and install the F version. Didn’t even need to tweak the DSP settings. Set the Sub to max gain and everything is well balanced, no polarity issues, no balance issues. Everything sounds amazing!
Mine is a March 2020 - no rear shelf speakers. The kit included them but I have not installed them yet as it’s a huge pain in the ass for very little gained IMHO. It sounds great without them. The Hansshow video shows them removing the grills from the top, where I have heard is not really as easy as it appears. Removing the entire shelf is just more than I want to tackle at this point for the limited return.This is GOOD news!
Without the DIY remove, how long would you say the install was?
What year is your SR+ and did it have the rear shelf speakers or did you also install them? And if you installed them did you do it from the top via the grilles or by fully removing the entire rear shelf?
Thanks again!
I think the rear speakers are only really noticeable if you are sitting in the back seat.