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Has anyone had their wheel geometry set up by Wheels In Motion?

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As per the question really. Asking because I've noticed that under full power the M3P can be a bit 'squirelly' i.e. it tugs a bit on the steering. So, I'm wondering about the Tesla settings and if they can be improved. I had my old Lexus IS200 set up by them and it was better than the Lexus settings (they had their own settings that were different to Lexus).

Cheers all,

Paul
 
Interested to hear how you get on if you get it done. I was going to (different engineer, but decent rep) but ran out of time before life got in the way.

Was wheels in motion expensive? If they aren't too bad I'd just give them a go.
 
Yes, and they are not expensive. Tony knows his stuff and is genuinely interested in making sure you get a good result.

The factory toe setting can be tweaked to improve what the OP is describing.
 
I recall there are certain things that can't be adjusted without reverting to after market parts, I think the rear camber arms are one on the MS, not sure about the M3 and there's an increasingly healthy aftermarket for adjustable drop links and camber arms etc I'm no expert so some of that might not make total sense but hopefully enough of a clue to feed some research. There may be limited advantage going to have the geometry set if they have one arm tied behind theor back. Here's the link the one of the MS threads

Adjustable Rear Camber Arms & Toe Links For S And X
 
I recall there are certain things that can't be adjusted without reverting to after market parts, I think the rear camber arms are one on the MS, not sure about the M3 and there's an increasingly healthy aftermarket for adjustable drop links and camber arms etc I'm no expert so some of that might not make total sense but hopefully enough of a clue to feed some research. There may be limited advantage going to have the geometry set if they have one arm tied behind theor back. Here's the link the one of the MS threads

Adjustable Rear Camber Arms & Toe Links For S And X

On the Model 3, there really is only toe adjustment possible with the factory suspension, but that in itself is well worth checking. I worked with Tony at WIM when I first got my M3P and at his suggestion we changed the front toe from the factory setting and it helped the straight line feel.

It's also a very good idea to get a geometry check done every now and then in any case because something could be worn or bent and need replacing.
 
It's also a very good idea to get a geometry check done every now and then in any case because something could be worn or bent and need replacing.

Absolutely - rereading my post it probably sounds like I thought a geom was pointless, thats not what I meant. I was just trying to set expectations on what can be done even by a suspension wizard, but you're absolutely right, its worth having it checked and adjusted.
 
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On the Model 3, there really is only toe adjustment possible with the factory suspension, but that in itself is well worth checking. I worked with Tony at WIM when I first got my M3P and at his suggestion we changed the front toe from the factory setting and it helped the straight line feel.

It's also a very good idea to get a geometry check done every now and then in any case because something could be worn or bent and need replacing.
Can you describe/detail what the differences from stock were for those of us not in NI?
 
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This is the factory spec, which gives a total front toe of -6 mins, + or - 18 mins. My M3P was measured at -21 mins in total, so just in spec but I found it a bit twitchy (on motorways mainly) so Tony set it to +4 mins and it was better. That still keeps it within Tesla's spec, but we felt it better to have a little toe in than any toe out for road use.

My left rear toe was just outside factory spec. so that was the only other adjustment needed that day. He's done a few Model 3s now so he'll have more data to go on, as mine was the first he saw and was a brand new car so it should have been OK anyway.
 
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This is the factory spec, which gives a total front toe of -6 mins, + or - 18 mins. My M3P was measured at -21 mins in total, so just in spec but I found it a bit twitchy (on motorways mainly) so Tony set it to +4 mins and it was better. That still keeps it within Tesla's spec, but we felt it better to have a little toe in than any toe out for road use.

My left rear toe was just outside factory spec. so that was the only other adjustment needed that day. He's done a few Model 3s now so he'll have more data to go on, as mine was the first he saw and was a brand new car so it should have been OK anyway.
Where is he based ?
 
I emailed Tony and he responded quickly. I'll most certainly be paying them a visit, as I think the current alignment could be improved. When I picked the car up in December, the steering wheel was off centre by about 15 degrees. I took it to Tesla Dartford who centred it up but to do that they need to do a full alignment. Since then, it's been more sensitive to road camber i.e. it tends to have a very slight pull on the steering.
 
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