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Help with High Electric Bill?

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.06-.12 depending on the month, apparently. Woman was all over on the phone. I’m going with .12

Any idea how many miles you drove that month?

I'll give you an example... my wife's Model X went 2,094 miles last month. Our electric bill portion for that was about $92. (I'm using the Stats app, BTW - which I've found is fairly close by placing a meter on my breaker panel.)

My Model 3 last month went 1,124 miles and was about $44. Mine is a little more efficient *and* she likes to pre-heat the cabin to 350 degrees before driving. Apparently winter driving and baking a cake are the same.. who knew?

In all seriousness, how many miles did you go? And yes -- about $1 or so per day for Sentry Mode is about right, so back that out of the numbers, too.
 
I’m in Philadelphia. Can you explain how often you typically drive, how often you’re charging below say 50%? Do you leave it always plugged in, Sentry, etc.?

Sorry, but your scenario seems the most relatable based on location so the insight would be appreciated.

I do field service work so I don’t drive a consistent route everyday. I average about 100 miles a day driving for work. My typical routine is to leave the car plugged in when not in use and charge to 80% most days. I plug the car in in cold weather as soon as I arrive home so the battery is already warm and charging should be more efficient. On cold mornings when I wake up I bump the charge to 90% to preheat the battery. 10 minutes before I leave I preheat the cabin to 72 and turn seat heater on.

From January to December this year I’ve averaged 230 wH/m over the 22000 miles driven. hope that gives you a point of reference.

Edit to say I am paying .07c per kWh, not 11 I reported earlier. Just checked to be sure
 
Sentry mode uses about 1 mile per hour. So if you leave it on 24/7, it basically adds 24 miles a day usage of battery. In one month, it adds over 700 miles of usage just parking there. Sentry mode also prevents your car ever go into sleep mode.

My coworker used to keep sentry mode on at work. Then he figured out that he drove 5 miles (round trip) to work and used almost 10 miles with sentry mode every day. So he stopped turning it on at work.
 
I’m tracking you now. Yes, we use electric for drying and AC (not heat). Philadelphia gets cold in winter, but nothing out of the norm the last couple years.

Electricity is used to operate the fan in a forced-air heating system, even if the heat source itself is natural gas. The power usage of this fan is non-trivial.

Another thing to consider is that even though you are driving less, you are AT HOME more. This involves lights, computers, tv, and likely additional heating (especially if NOV-DEC 2019 no one was home). This will include your wife and kids if you have such.
 
I wonder if your electric provider sets the rates by your peak amp draw?
I have seen this in parts of the country and this would have an impact on all your electric usage.
Ignore that reply,
Looks like 7 cents per kWh so looking for up to an additional 1000 kWh's of usage.
I am thinking you have something else ongoing within your home, but I could be wrong.
Does someone have a portable electric heater, dehumidifier, a new appliance?
Can you see realtime usage through your electric provider, if not you might hire an electrician to monitor your realtime usage and identify a constant draw that shouldn't be there.
 
I have the Tesla gen 2 wall connector, but recently added a ChargePoint HomeFlex since we may get another electric vehicle one day that is not a Tesla. PSEG on Long Island gave me a $500 rebate plus an additional $50 check for signing up to link my unit to the utility and a 5 cents per kWh discount for charging at night.
The HomeFlex knows your utility rate and shows you how much your charge cost you. Even with my high rates of a little over 20 cents per kWh, my charging is costing my about five dollars per 150 miles, assuming they are calculating my rate correctly. This is cheaper than I was paying for gas when I got my car in May 2019. With gas very low now, I don't know how much it would be saving me, but I don't really even pay attention.
 
.06-.12 depending on the month, apparently. Woman was all over on the phone. I’m going with .12
Your utility should have the rate schedule on their web site. If you posted it, that'd help us a lot.

Also, frankly when it comes to issues like this, posting dollar amounts is useless. We need to know the consumption in the billing periods (in kWh) and whether you're on a time-of-use plan vs. non-TOU. And, giving us the rate schedule takes the mystery out of things esp. given the HUGE variance in marginal cost per kWh to charge a vehicle in the US. It can be anywhere from free to really cheap (say 6 cents per kWh) to over say 47 cents/kWh.

There's also the possibility of demand charges but that seems pretty rare in the US for residential plans.

I'm in Pacific Gouge & Extort land and let's just say it's on the pretty high side.
 
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Doing a search on the interwebs suggests that the current PECO charge for distriibution is 0.06536, and for the generation/transmission is 0.06426, for a total of just under $0.13/kwh

Note that this assumes the OP is on Peco's standard residential rate and has Peco as an energy supplier. If instead they've gone and done a deal with some other supplier with more 'variable' rates, we don't have a clue what they are paying/kwh.

We should really be discussing number of kwh used rather than cost of those kilowatts, except if we're trying to convince the OP that his 3 costs less to fill with electricity than his old ICE car cost to fill with gas.

Just as a datapoint, there's something seriously wrong if OP is getting electricity for 0.13/kwh and isn't finding it significantly cheaper than gasoline for an ICE. Here in Mass, we are paying around double that per kwh and still saving money compared to an ICE.
 
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I live outside Philly and also have PECO for electricity. Look on the PDF of the bill for the bar graph of electric use per billing cycle and compare to a year ago. The temperature is similar. Like you I have a M3 and don’t use electricity for heat. I saw a 80% increase in kWhs used in this last cycle which would indicate the use due to adding the M3 compared to last year. I drive about 1200 miles a month. This resulted in an increase of about $130.00 for this billing cycle.
 
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Electricity is used to operate the fan in a forced-air heating system, even if the heat source itself is natural gas. The power usage of this fan is non-trivial.

Another thing to consider is that even though you are driving less, you are AT HOME more. This involves lights, computers, tv, and likely additional heating (especially if NOV-DEC 2019 no one was home). This will include your wife and kids if you have such.

I think user212_nr has it. You are probably running your heating fan and other appliances during the day now when you weren't last year. The car is new so you are wrongly suspecting it.
 
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... I do leave Sentry on. I live in the city, but have a covered parking spot with cameras around the building. I could turn it off to save, but that fear would always go “that one time I need it.”
... But, if the $1/day Sentry cost is true...****. That gives me some thoughts. Just sucks because I’m most worried about my car at home with some of the people that come walking by. I need it less for video, more for deterring ... Not what I want to hear because I want to feel safe with the car all the time, but that’s a lot of power for something I *knock on wood* typically won’t need. I worry less about the car at other places vs. home. Not because I live in a bad area, it’s simply the city and people check door handles and interiors all the time.

Alright, my favourite topic. I will convince you you can leave Sentry off.

Yes, Sentry Mode is expensive is run. Expensive and incredibly wasteful. The good news is home security and/or dashcams can be bought to replace what Sentry Mode does. You'll likely get a better view of the person (the cameras are for seeing road stuff, not faces) and sound (which Sentry footage doesn't have). If you install a home security camera, it also can serve double duty overseeing both your home and your car. These devices consume much less power, since they are built with the consideration of being 24/7 cameras. A Tesla was not.

Need more reasoning? Sentry isn't reliable. It has gotten much better, but there's still too many reports of inconvenient errors writing to the drive, or the footage itself being broken.

Lastly, you can't do anything about people touching door handles and looking inside. What you can do is make sure you lock your car, and don't leave anything in view that looks interesting. My handle is tried almost nightly when parked outside (it's kind of funny seeing evidence of them having no idea how the handles work), but my car is ultimately fine. I have no recourse for someone touching the handle on the car (and if it's unlocked and they get in, I still don't really).

I think user212_nr has it. You are probably running your heating fan and other appliances during the day now when you weren't last year. The car is new so you are wrongly suspecting it.

It's a good point, but we do need to consider that an EV will substantially increase the electrical bill and that's fair. Ours went up hundreds, but we were spending something like $400-600/month per car on gasoline.

Another factor is that Teslas, unless you've bothered to configure it as such, are one of (if not the) most wasteful EVs when sitting parked and doing nothing. Here's a thread I made on the topic, although I'd make a lot of corrections today the takeaways would be similar: True Total Energy Usage (4-season climates): Evidence-based Projections
 
OK, so my electricity is $0.10/kwh. I use about 35kwh of battery a day (~50%). So for that day it would cost me $3.50. So let's say I drive 20 days out of the month. $3.50 x 20 days = $70 a month. Compare that with gas. I paid way more than $70 a month for gas in my 27mpg car.
 
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OK, so my electricity is $0.10/kwh. I use about 35kwh of battery a day (~50%). So for that day it would cost me $3.50. So let's say I drive 20 days out of the month. $3.50 x 20 days = $70 a month. Compare that with gas. I paid way more than $70 a month for gas in my 27mpg car.

Don’t forget to multiply this EV cost result by about 1.2-1.3, to account for charging losses and feature use. At an absolute minimum, you should multiply by about 1.1.
 
So I’m into my third full month with my M3. PECO is our electrical supplier. The month I got the car, September (it was mostly in the shop getting work done) our bill was $66.40:

October $87.92
November $103.07
December $135.43

Any advice is recommended!

Ask PECO if they have a VTOU plan for EV owners. Here in NY we have National Grid, and I'm on their Voluntary Time of Use plan, so my rate drops between 11pm and 7am. I have the HPWC and charge at 240v/40A starting at 1am. The SC-1 rate is $.05/KWh, but my rate on the SC-1 VTOU plan is $.06/KWh on peak and $.01/KWh off peak (when I charge). Of course they kill us with $.13/KWh delivery fees. Also, the SC-1 VTOU rate is variable and is adjusted every 24 hours while the standard residential rate (SC-1) stays constant no matter how little they buy their electricity at.
 
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So I’m into my third full month with my M3. PECO is our electrical supplier.
The month I got the car, September (it was mostly in the shop getting work done) our bill was $66.40:
Any advice is recommended!
Beside all the other comments, such as reviewing your electricity bill in details
(many companies provide daily and hourly consumption graph)

and may be use a Time of Use (ToU) with night discount rate subscription,

I would also recommend installing a small Watt meter next to your plug,
so you will be able immediately to check your consumption.
 
So I’m into my third full month with my M3. PECO is our electrical supplier. The month I got the car, September (it was mostly in the shop getting work done) our bill was $66.40:

October $87.92
November $103.07
December $135.43

I see a correlation between driving it more often and a higher bill because naturally the more it’s driven the lower the battery % is so it has to charge longer. But our bill was $55 this team last year and a nearly $100 jump over 3-5 full charges in a month seems off. The car is always plugged in with scheduled charging to begin at 10 PM (although PECO no longer separates off hours, etc.).

I got a 14-50 installed with the max 32 AMPS (or volt?). If I turned that down and had the car charge longer, would that improve our price since it’s drawing less electricity? Or because it’d be on longer would it be a wash?

I’m just so perplexed. All the research I did before the car seemed to show people’s bills going up $15-$30 so this isn’t a welcomed sight, by any means.

Any advice is recommended!
Does your utility offer an off hours EV rate? Most utilities offer a EV rate to customers! I know PECO is an expensive electric company!