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Homelink
- Thread starter steve841
- Start date
rlpm
S P85 | Sig X _P90D_
Have you tried putting the existing clicker in the frunk (toward the nose cone) for the learning step? Several posts have said that got the headlights to blink confirming the code had been learned.
lolachampcar
Well-Known Member
Ok, followed the instructions and beat my head against the concrete driveway outside my garage for ten minutes trying to get the bleep'i't'bleep thing to program. Head hurts.
Read forum posts, open trunk with car in garage...... Done in 15 seconds.
Thanks All!
Read forum posts, open trunk with car in garage...... Done in 15 seconds.
Thanks All!
Sousaphil
P2,595
I'll give it a shot tonight. Thanks, I was putting it further in the frunk than was appropriate.
Sousaphil
P2,595
Thanks for the great tips, all. I placed the remote exactly as rlpm said above, and it worked very quickly.
Cheers!
Cheers!
rlpm
S P85 | Sig X _P90D_
Glad to help! It's really the other great members of this forum from whom I've learned so much that you should be thanking! And my wife for putting up with me incessantly reading this forum & TM's.
I anxiously await a delivery button, giant wire transfer, and my very own frunk in which to program HomeLink devices…
I'm impressed - and think it's time to update the owners manual / on-screen instructions to Frunk location. Had no issue programming my LiftMaster but no matter how many different ways i tried to get my iDrive set-up, was not successful. Gave up on that (it's an alternate door for the garage anyways) but on a whim decided to try the frunk location set-up today. Wham bam and completed on the first go. Now both doors are available to me.
dsmith2189
Active Member
Yes, my Homelink seems to program but when I press the saved profile to open the gate it does not work.
my building's garage uses liftmaster and have to pull out my FOB every time I enter.
We have three gates to the condo garage and they seem to program but do not activate the gate.
Also when driving on the up/down ramps above the gates my Homelink menu pops up.
Going down (each floor of the parking garage has 2 levels)...
Floor 4 ramp, popup, Floor 4A ramp, popup dissapears, Floor 3 ramp, popup, Floor 3A ramp, popup dissapears, Floor 2 ramp, popup, Floor 2A ramp, popup dissapears, Floor 1 ramp, popup.
and repeat for going up.
I have emailed [email protected] to request they add the altitude to the GPS position programmed into the Homelink profile.
Even if I can't open the gate, at least I won't have the menu pop up reminding me of that on every floor.
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LuckyLuke
Model S P90DL
My garage door opener works on 433 MHz band, will the Tesla homelink system work on my garage door?
vbsdan
Member
Finally got Homelink working. As a last resort I found the owner's manual for the opener. When the car says to push the learn button on the opener you actually have to push the learn button twice. The opener is a LiftMaster 8360. BTW I could never get the car to learn the original remote that came with the opener. The opener uses HomeLink version 4, which is not compatible with Homelink in the Roadster, so a couple of years ago I had to get a repeater to be able to use Homelink in the Roadster. I was able to get the Model S to recognize the repeater's remote. From talking with the folks at Tesla it all should have worked with the original remote, but no dice. Anyway, it's working! On a side note, I had a little rattle in the Model S that I was having a hard time locating. Finally realized that it was one of the plastic buttons in the garage door opener. Yeah, the car is really THAT quiet.
Here are a couple of tips:
- I do agree that the menu item for the garage door opener is too small, how ever, I found that I can improve the odds of hitting it on the first try by putting my fingers on the top of the dashboard and taping the screen with my thumb.
- If you own an old opener that is still mechanically sound but does not support Homelink, you can use this receiver: Enables to use the SOMMER transmitter with openers from other manufacturers. and transmitter: The small size 2-button transmitter works with the SOMMER garage door openers.. The receiver needs a source of 24V (a low voltage landscape lighting transformer will do the trick) and can be wired in parallel with the wall mounted button of the existing opener.
- I do agree that the menu item for the garage door opener is too small, how ever, I found that I can improve the odds of hitting it on the first try by putting my fingers on the top of the dashboard and taping the screen with my thumb.
- If you own an old opener that is still mechanically sound but does not support Homelink, you can use this receiver: Enables to use the SOMMER transmitter with openers from other manufacturers. and transmitter: The small size 2-button transmitter works with the SOMMER garage door openers.. The receiver needs a source of 24V (a low voltage landscape lighting transformer will do the trick) and can be wired in parallel with the wall mounted button of the existing opener.
I'm still having issues with using HomeLink when the car is backed up. The HomeLink works 90% of the time when the car is facing the garage door but less than 5% of the time when the car is being backed up to the garage, even when the rear of the car is nearly touching the garage door. Tesla Service has indicated that the HomeLink transmitter is directional and that to use it, you should have the car facing the garage door which seems a somewhat unsatisfactory answer. The problem exists with both a Raynor as well as a Liftmaster garage door opener which makes me think that it's the HomeLink transmitter in the car rather than the garage door openers.
I have tried extending the receiver wire by hooking up extra wire to it and looping it over and under the garage door opener but somewhat doubtful if it made much difference. If it's a design limitation of the current system, then it might not be able to be fixed but what I wonder is if our transmitter is somehow deficient and performance might be improved by a swapout of the transmitter module. Any thoughts from other people using the HomeLink system on the Modell S?
I have tried extending the receiver wire by hooking up extra wire to it and looping it over and under the garage door opener but somewhat doubtful if it made much difference. If it's a design limitation of the current system, then it might not be able to be fixed but what I wonder is if our transmitter is somehow deficient and performance might be improved by a swapout of the transmitter module. Any thoughts from other people using the HomeLink system on the Modell S?
FWIW, I first stop when going past the driveway and press the Homelink button (I found if you don't stop, the door opens up a few inches and then stops). Then pull past the driveway and back in. This won't work if your driveway is long. If try the Homelink with the car already backed in, the success rate it low although pressing it multiple times usually works.
hmmm, that's a thought, using the forward facing transmitter when driving past the driveway to trigger the garage door opener and then backing in. Will give it a try the next time. That'll probably work at one location where the driveway is short but may not work well at the 2nd location where it's longer. Will have to give it a try and see how it goes, thanks for the suggestion.
Great tip
great tip... Tesla should update their instructions
dave
Thanks! I tried and tried to link homelink to my garage door opener with no avail. Once i opened the frunk, it worked quickly.
great tip... Tesla should update their instructions
dave
JakeP
S P4996 ==> P02547
I had to install a new receiver on my Tesla garage bay, and string the antenna wire outside the garage door. The Homelink could close the door, but just could not penetrate the 2" windowless garage door to open it. I don't know if I have a weak transmitter or what...but it works fine now!
It took a while to get the programming right, but it's now reliable.
My frustration is that, given the small size and the location of the touchscreen, the old remote control on the visor was easier! I've noted elsewhere, the size of the button has to be larger and the location should be placed so its easy to press by feel/muscle memory without having to look for the location.
My frustration is that, given the small size and the location of the touchscreen, the old remote control on the visor was easier! I've noted elsewhere, the size of the button has to be larger and the location should be placed so its easy to press by feel/muscle memory without having to look for the location.
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