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How I fixed my air suspension leak for $1.00

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where is the valve location for the S to refill the compressor? I assume this is the method used if there is aleak and one needs to refill the compressor tank versus letting it runs for hours to gain pressure? Can that same compressor valve be used to check the system pressure, or perhaps that inline T fitting up near the compressor is the location?
 
where is the valve location for the S to refill the compressor? I assume this is the method used if there is aleak and one needs to refill the compressor tank versus letting it runs for hours to gain pressure? Can that same compressor valve be used to check the system pressure, or perhaps that inline T fitting up near the compressor is the location?

On the pre-facelift S, the valve is in that Tee. On facelift, it’s on the air tank itself, which can be accessed by removing the plastic covers from the frunk.

Yes you can use it to check the tank pressure (not the individual line pressures to each corner.
 
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is there any issue with line pressure when disconnecting the black line from the air supply unit? once the car is in jack mode and powered down, the compressor system will not lose any air once the black line is disconnected, will it? if it does, can i just use standard air to refill to ~ 75psi and then let the car take over from their to inflate (no need for nitrogen)?
 
is there any issue with line pressure when disconnecting the black line from the air supply unit? once the car is in jack mode and powered down, the compressor system will not lose any air once the black line is disconnected, will it? if it does, can i just use standard air to refill to ~ 75psi and then let the car take over from their to inflate (no need for nitrogen)?

Correct, you can depressurize the system, and when the car comes off jack mode it will re-pressurize as needed. The working pressure in the tank is about 125-150 psi i believe. Less than that at each corner.
 
Correct, you can depressurize the system, and when the car comes off jack mode it will re-pressurize as needed. The working pressure in the tank is about 125-150 psi i believe. Less than that at each corner.

so one would depressurize it from the inline T-fitting, correct? after depressurizing, the car automatically refills itself to designed air pressure, or do you need to apply air from an air compressor to get it started?
 
so one would depressurize it from the inline T-fitting, correct? after depressurizing, the car automatically refills itself to designed air pressure, or do you need to apply air from an air compressor to get it started?

If you are trying to depressurize the tank for whatever reason, then yes you bleed off pressure from the t-fitting.

If you are trying to depressurize individual air struts, that needs to be done either at the compressor terminal block, or on the strut itself.

When you turn the car back on, it will turn the compressor on and repressurize the tank to operating pressure, and then pressurize the struts (when you're off jack mode). You can always give it some help by applying air from an air compressor so that your little car compressor doesnt have to work as hard, but that's not strictly necessary.
 
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in the Tesla Service Manual, it shows that for repressurizing the car with nitrogen, "nitrogen is automatically filled up to a pressure of 20 bar (290 psi)." so the Continental pressure system (pre-11 April 2016) holds 290 psi at normal system operation?
 
in the Tesla Service Manual, it shows that for repressurizing the car with nitrogen, "nitrogen is automatically filled up to a pressure of 20 bar (290 psi)." so the Continental pressure system (pre-11 April 2016) holds 290 psi at normal system operation?

No, that's not accurate. The air suspension system compresses air from atmosphere, not 100% nitrogen. And that little baby onboard compressor could not run up to 290 psi.

Copy and paste where you saw that. Are you sure you didn't read that the tires are inflated to 2.9 bar (290 kpa)? Because filling tires with straight nitrogen is a thing, although IMO it's a waste of time...
 
update to this. I replaced my '13 MS P85 T-fitting over the weekend. Used a DOT Brass Push in air brake Fitting (four pack on Amazon for $17 so i guess i now have some spares). 24 hours in and there is no leaking and the car stays level. fingers crossed this is it (will try and report back later). I tried using a sharp razor blade to cut each end of the air line for a fresh install but wow that stuff is tough! Ended up using metal snips and then cleaning the end with the razor and with a hard push each air line went into the fitting. Now, it does not have the Shrader valve to bleed off pressure but i figured for $4 for a fitting it was worth a try before splurging and getting the official one through Tesla (~$55).

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