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If I get a flat tire in UK what’s my options?

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I went for this one (stop and go) since it seemed the system for actually inserting the plug was the most practical. Also had very good reviews

 
hmmm... well, guess what, my RTC500 just blew the glass fuse inside the plug. First time it's done this in the 8 months I've had it although I must have used it to do the tyres maybe three or four times before this. Irritatingly, it got through three of the four tyres before it blew so I'm now in the market for a glass fuse while the front left throws warnings at me constantly.

Anyone know whether I'm safe swapping the dead 10A fuse out for a 20A or would I be risking a meltdown? I don't want to have to keep a pile of 10A fuses in the car just in case.

Safer to go like for like as you don't know what the wires would be able to handle or get something like this which would be much easier :p
12V Li-Ion Mini Air Compressor
 
I just got my plugged flat tyre properly patched at a local Just Tyre. Very helpful and willing to listen to the 101 rules for lifting the car and repairing the tyre. They knew how to do it and did a professional job. Used my puck and a floor jack.

View attachment 548520
Replugged from the inside, patched, reglued the acoustic insulation, balanced and remounted the wheel with a torque spanner. £25.

Where was that just out of interest?
 
I’ve used this type (mushroom plugs - as shown above) twice now. Very effective, and can be installed without taking the wheel off the car, but only just.

On both occasions the rear tyres picked up the punctures, and on both occasions the hardest part was getting the offending penetrant out of the tyre. The first was a wood screw, which refused to budge with pliers so I borrowed a screwdriver to unscrew it. The second puncture was a piece of metal that I think used to be a clip for holding on a wheel balancing weight (oh the irony). That took twenty minutes to remove with a pair of pliers, mainly due to the very restricted amount of space in which to work when the wheel is still on the car.

Once the items are removed plugging the holes takes seconds. They hold air reasonably well too.

The only downside to these plugs is that they will only accommodate a certain size of hole. The alternative kits with part cured rubber strings can be used to plug up enormous holes and tears to get you out of a bind that the mushrooms cannot.

If you’ve fitted mudguards, beware. With a flat tyre on 20”rims the amount of room to work in is tiny. On 18”s the car will be sat an inch lower down on a flat tyre, so keep a tool in the car to remove the mud flap as well.
 
I’ve used this type (mushroom plugs - as shown above) twice now. Very effective, and can be installed without taking the wheel off the car, but only just.

On both occasions the rear tyres picked up the punctures, and on both occasions the hardest part was getting the offending penetrant out of the tyre. The first was a wood screw, which refused to budge with pliers so I borrowed a screwdriver to unscrew it. The second puncture was a piece of metal that I think used to be a clip for holding on a wheel balancing weight (oh the irony). That took twenty minutes to remove with a pair of pliers, mainly due to the very restricted amount of space in which to work when the wheel is still on the car.

Once the items are removed plugging the holes takes seconds. They hold air reasonably well too.

The only downside to these plugs is that they will only accommodate a certain size of hole. The alternative kits with part cured rubber strings can be used to plug up enormous holes and tears to get you out of a bind that the mushrooms cannot.

If you’ve fitted mudguards, beware. With a flat tyre on 20”rims the amount of room to work in is tiny. On 18”s the car will be sat an inch lower down on a flat tyre, so keep a tool in the car to remove the mud flap as well.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Slime-2046...ld=1&keywords=tyre+plug&qid=1601978912&sr=8-6

That's the one I used to plug mine
Also have flaps and top tip is move the car or roll the wheel so you can easily work on the puncture from the back without taking the wheel off if you can!
Never done this before but managed to fix the puncture and was fully air tight in about 15 mins or so! Very impressed by the £5 kit, someone else's video I watched to see how to do it
 
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From what I can see from the few times it’s mentioned in this thread the issue with the Tesla tyre repair kit isn’t so much that it doesn’t work - but more that it will f**k up your tyre...

This doesn’t seem any different to the kit that my previous car had - use as a last resort of your in the middle of nowhere with no phone coverage as it will allow you to get to your destination or at least a garage but will require replacement of the tyre...

Assuming my assumption here is correct and given that Tesla are selling the thing for the model 3 - all variations of which have various sizes of acoustic foam tyres - that if you find yourself with a puncture in a random road in the middle of nowhere and your breakdown / Tesla roadside can’t get to you for whatever reason at least you have a backup to allow you to drive to somewhere you can get it fixed properly. Even if that will require a completely new tyre.
 
I’ve used this type (mushroom plugs - as shown above) twice now. Very effective, and can be installed without taking the wheel off the car, but only just.

On both occasions the rear tyres picked up the punctures, and on both occasions the hardest part was getting the offending penetrant out of the tyre. The first was a wood screw, which refused to budge with pliers so I borrowed a screwdriver to unscrew it. The second puncture was a piece of metal that I think used to be a clip for holding on a wheel balancing weight (oh the irony). That took twenty minutes to remove with a pair of pliers, mainly due to the very restricted amount of space in which to work when the wheel is still on the car.

Once the items are removed plugging the holes takes seconds. They hold air reasonably well too.

The only downside to these plugs is that they will only accommodate a certain size of hole. The alternative kits with part cured rubber strings can be used to plug up enormous holes and tears to get you out of a bind that the mushrooms cannot.

If you’ve fitted mudguards, beware. With a flat tyre on 20”rims the amount of room to work in is tiny. On 18”s the car will be sat an inch lower down on a flat tyre, so keep a tool in the car to remove the mud flap as well.
Whilst despatching on my trusty BMW K100 RT in the '80s and '90s I always used to carry some self tapper screws to put in the, mostly rear tyre, to hold pressure whilst I rode slowly home.
 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Slime-2046...ld=1&keywords=tyre+plug&qid=1601978912&sr=8-6

That's the one I used to plug mine
Also have flaps and top tip is move the car or roll the wheel so you can easily work on the puncture from the back without taking the wheel off if you can!
Never done this before but managed to fix the puncture and was fully air tight in about 15 mins or so! Very impressed by the £5 kit, someone else's video I watched to see how to do it

Thats the one!

I actually had a tyre repaired with an identical kit many years ago (20 or so) by a tyre shop and was impressed by how easy. Never had a problem with that tyre since.

Had the same sort of plug on my first bike(rear tyre) when i bought it ( a bandit 650 ) ten years ago but from previous experience it did not concern me and I went on to ride it (sometime like I stole it) for a full year and no problems there either.

Thanks for the link. Bought! :)
 
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Borrow a multi meter or dc clamp and measure the start up current and running current. Fit fuse with 20% greater of the max current. You could also fit a time delay (T) fuse if there is a large starr current but lowish running current
 
From what I can see from the few times it’s mentioned in this thread the issue with the Tesla tyre repair kit isn’t so much that it doesn’t work - but more that it will f**k up your tyre...

This doesn’t seem any different to the kit that my previous car had - use as a last resort of your in the middle of nowhere with no phone coverage as it will allow you to get to your destination or at least a garage but will require replacement of the tyre...

Assuming my assumption here is correct and given that Tesla are selling the thing for the model 3 - all variations of which have various sizes of acoustic foam tyres - that if you find yourself with a puncture in a random road in the middle of nowhere and your breakdown / Tesla roadside can’t get to you for whatever reason at least you have a backup to allow you to drive to somewhere you can get it fixed properly. Even if that will require a completely new tyre.

Gunk based repair kits also tend to have a deleterious effect on tyre pressure monitoring sensors....
 
Borrow a multi meter or dc clamp and measure the start up current and running current. Fit fuse with 20% greater of the max current. You could also fit a time delay (T) fuse if there is a large starr current but lowish running current
I assume that was for me! Thanks.

I've just ordered a set of 10A T glass fuses. I have got a multimeter but not sure how to go about measuring the start up and running current. Got a link vid to show me how to do that? I couldn't find one. Cheers.
 
I assume that was for me! Thanks.

I've just ordered a set of 10A T glass fuses. I have got a multimeter but not sure how to go about measuring the start up and running current. Got a link vid to show me how to do that? I couldn't find one. Cheers.


If the air compressor has crocodile clips for direct battery connection. Its easy to add the meter in series with the positive feed.

Usually multi meters, you place the control in DC amps, move the black lead to Amps connection. If your meter has peak hold feature it will store the maximum current flow.

Its a little more difficult if there is only a cigarette lighter connector. The circuit has to be broken for the meter to fit inline- thats why DC clamps are so convenient for easy measurements
 
If the air compressor has crocodile clips for direct battery connection. Its easy to add the meter in series with the positive feed.

Usually multi meters, you place the control in DC amps, move the black lead to Amps connection. If your meter has peak hold feature it will store the maximum current flow.

Its a little more difficult if there is only a cigarette lighter connector. The circuit has to be broken for the meter to fit inline- thats why DC clamps are so convenient for easy measurements

Problem with a lot of digital multimeters is those that do have a high-DC-current range may be limited to 10A max anyway and may or may not have its own internal 10A protection fuse.
You may also find that measuring high currents is only allowed for a very short time duration because the current shunt in the multimeter gets hot. I have a meter with an unfused 20A range which is marked 10-second max in 15 minute period (to allow cooling).
If your tyre inflater gizmo is blowing 10A fuses then there may be more current pulled than the meter can handle and measure so a bit of a suck-it-and-see situation.

Clamp meters are best at high currents though DC-Amps clamp meters are expensive. The AC clamp meters are quite cheap but no good for DC.
 
I pack one of these Milwaukee M12 tyre inflators in the boot. Already got a bunch of Milwaukee’s finest cordless in the garage so battery etc easy. Runs for ages and is probs the fastest inflator I’ve used. Not exactly cheap, but a pleasure to use. Great for a slow leak/screw etc when you need to top off before you can repair.
 

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My current car has no spare and no room for one either, i carry one of these but have not needed in for 2 years. I did use it on the wifes car a few months ago and the tyre has remained at the correct pressure since

https://www.amazon.co.uk/STOP-POCKET-TYRE-PLUGGER-KIT/dp/B003VE0ZL6

Good tip - have just ordered this. Thanks.

I have other cars that have no spare, but I think the Tesla is a bit more problematic in terms of jacking up etc. So this kit makes sense.
 
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