I'm getting various BMS errors, and my model S won't go into Drive (D) or Reverse (R)

[timothypop]

Hey everyone, new to the forum.
My 2014 Tesla Model S (new to me) is giving me the following BMS errors (see attachment):
- BMS_u008
- BMS_w141
- BMS_w062
- BMS_w033
- BMS_f062
- BMS_f033

I should mention that the 12v battery isn't holding a charge, so I ordered a new one and it should be here soon. I'm hoping that is what is wrong and that the errors will go away once I replace the 12v battery, but I thought I'd ask the forum gurus and see if anyone has seen these errors before.
My HV battery (85kw) seems to be fine since it's currently charged at like 85% and it's holding the charge fine.

 

[Electric Space]

I am in the Netherlands, near Eindhoven. Personally, I don't have a garage/shop, but worked together with two companies in the Netherlands to get our battery fixed the first time. Now the second time (after the second module failed), I went back to one of these companies (GreenAid), who thoroughly checked and fixed our battery.

Also since we are talking here is a shot of what I’m dealing with is this exactly what you had an issue with? Same error codes? From my experience the pyro fuse inside the battery went out on my other Tesla and replaced it and it worked flawlessly afterwords. This one seems like the same issue but the codes are different, found this forum with you having these codes?

 

[brainhouston]

FYI, at some point later (2015?..) Tesla went away for using actual wires for brick sense to this:

Notice the triple redundancy.

For older packs u just have to go thru each wire n make sure its still has good connection (ohm it out i guess n give it a wiggle..)
In some cases BMB pcbs can be bad...

 

[Domih]

I didn't use the codes, but we managed to use the Tesla Toolbox to clear the fault after the actual issue was fixed: TESLA MODEL S stopped working... CAR MAY NOT RESTART.
Recently, we got the same error in another module. By now, all modules in the pack have been checked and fixed.

I had exactly the same. I attempted the repair myself (ended up having GreenAid reattach the sensor wire),
That succeeded but it still wouldn't work, bought ScanMyTesla app and cables and it appeared another one has come loose.
There was too much water intrusion so every module needed to be checked.
I ended up selling my battery+motor to Hans, he reworked the whole battery and installed it in another car.
It's amazing what he can do!

 

[Viyasan7]

So I changed the pyro fuse, which in my case was located in the connection box on top of the battery. The original pyro fuse looked good, but I had already purchased a new one, so in the new one went. I also changed the 12v battery as well, which I believe was the culprit of all my errors. Well, if fixed all my issues! Test drove it around, worked just fine.
In the YouTube video (link below) you can see the exact setup for replacing the battery, and you can see the pyro fuse when he disassembles the connection box on top. It's the part with the small blue tab (part 1004635-00-A)

I really need your help. I have the same issue. My 12v battery started draining. I have a 2013 Tesla Model S P85+, I figured the battery was probably original. I was able to trickle charge that battery and still drive until it drains again. I decided to buy a brand new one from Tesla (Grey top 12v battery) original was a red top battery cover. After swapping the battery, the MCU and everything loads up but the car will not go into D or R. I got the following codes:

BMS_F062
BMS_F033
BMS_W033
BMS_W062
GTW_W405
GTW_W158
DI_U014

Car was not in a crash or anything. I checked all the fuses including the 30amp contactor, 10 amp contactor and the 12v pyro fuse for continuity and all seem good.

What can it possibly be? You can see the attached for codes.

 

[brainhouston]

Car was not in a crash or anything.

Yet u have BMS crash code...
Ck ur HV pack fuse (aka pyro..)

 

[Viyasan7]

Yet u have BMS crash code...
Ck ur HV pack fuse (aka pyro..)

Yes I was not in a crash. The 12v battery kept dying so I trickle charged it and drove. One day I had to bring a spare battery to boost it and then drove it home. It gave a bunch of warnings due to the low voltage battery being weak including the regen being disabled. Any way to check HV pyro without taking battery down?

 

[Viyasan7]

Yes I was not in a crash. The 12v battery kept dying so I trickle charged it and drove. One day I had to bring a spare battery to boost it and then drove it home. It gave a bunch of warnings due to the low voltage battery being weak including the regen being disabled. Any way to check HV pyro without taking battery down?

To add, here are the details of those "crash codes": it stated contactor power dropped while in drive.

 

[brainhouston]

Any way to check HV pyro without taking battery down?

If u have original 85 pack then no, fuse is on top. Newer packs have fuse on bottom

Normally if 12v is bad ur car will never cut off anything during drive because its providing its own 12v when contractors are closed (kinda like alternator on ICE)
Unless 12v pyro blew, did u ck it?.. or fireman's loop broken..
or HV pack fuse blew (i believe u might have old sand type that blows over time), although u should have diff codes...
u have other codes which could just be bad ground... or lack of 12v due to pyro.
up in this thread it was mentioned that u might have to reset some of these codes to go away...
get multimeter n start checking things

 

[Viyasan7]

If u have original 85 pack then no, fuse is on top. Newer packs have fuse on bottom

Normally if 12v is bad ur car will never cut off anything during drive because its providing its own 12v when contractors are closed (kinda like alternator on ICE)
Unless 12v pyro blew, did u ck it?.. or fireman's loop broken..
or HV pack fuse blew (i believe u might have old sand type that blows over time), although u should have diff codes...
u have other codes which could just be bad ground... or lack of 12v due to pyro.
up in this thread it was mentioned that u might have to reset some of these codes to go away...
get multimeter n start checking things

I just find it odd that I got these issues after buying the new OEM Tesla 12v battery. Even though the old one dies out, it worked when it was trickle charged.

Things I did so far for Diagnostics are:
- checked continuity on all of the battery fuses (on top of battery) including the 12v pyro fuse. All passed continuity.
- removed the whole frunk assembly and checked for poor grounding, that also passed continuity but I took the nut and bolt out to clean anyways.
- checked the 10A contactor fuse and ALL other fuses in the frunk (4 fuse boxes including the battery top) all passed continuity
- checked continuity on the fireman's loop, passed

When I get in the car I get the following codes:
- BMS_w062
- BMS_w033
- BMS_f062
- BMS_f033
- GTW_157_LowPowerSupportFault
- GTW_w405_12VNotSupported

The old battery I has was a "red top", the new one is a "Grey top". I told Tesla to configure the battery to the new one, they claimed to do that OTA. Still no luck.

When I press the brake the car actually "Starts". But as soon as I try to put it in Drive or Reverse I get the following error:

- DI_u014_NotOkToStartDrive
Description: Drive Inverter User Alert: 12 V supply not sufficient for drive



A few weeks back with the old battery (when it was failing but i kept trickle charging it) I had the following error come up:

- BMS_w010_SW_Neg_Contactor_Drive
Description: Unexpected current level through negative contactor drive circuit

- BMS_w009_SW_Pos_Contactor_Drive
Description: Unexpected current level through positive contactor drive circuit

These went away after trickle charging the 12v.


At the point I'm running out of options.
- Can it be the 12V Supply (30A) fuse in the DCDC Converter ( I will test this next for continuity)
- Can it be a defective battery they sold me?
- Can it be a failed HV component such as the Battery Heater?

 

[brainhouston]

Put a multimeter on 12v, then lock/unlock n see if u getting a 14v at any point before u try to put in drive
Post codes from history
It's possible u have failed dc-dc
Or BMS / HV pack issue

Edit: do u hear contractors click at all?

 

[Viyasan7]

Put a multimeter on 12v, then lock/unlock n see if u getting a 14v at any point before u try to put in drive
Post codes from history
It's possible u have failed dc-dc
Or BMS / HV pack issue

Edit: do u hear contractors click at all?

Sounds good I will check the voltage before start and after.

When I press the brakes the car does start, Headlights go on, brake makes noise, compressor runs for air suspension, it sounds like the coolant pumps run initially, interior fan runs too (temp control does not seem to work), as soon as I put it in Drive, fun turns off and I get that DI error.

Here are the old codes about a week or two prior woth the old 12v battery. Again those codes went away when I trickled charged that 12v.

 

[Viyasan7]

Put a multimeter on 12v, then lock/unlock n see if u getting a 14v at any point before u try to put in drive
Post codes from history
It's possible u have failed dc-dc
Or BMS / HV pack issue

Edit: do u hear contractors click at all?

Sounds good I will check the voltage before start and after.

When I press the brakes the car does start, Headlights go on, brake makes

 

[brainhouston]

When I press the brakes the car does start, Headlights go on, brake makes noise, compressor runs for air suspension, it sounds like the coolant pumps run initially, interior fan runs too (temp control does not seem to work), as soon as I put it in Drive, fun turns off and I get that DI error.

when u do this, try to listen for contactors clicks, maybe with door open
they should click on as soon as u unlock the car n click off when u get DI error
at the same time u should see 13-14v on 12v battery if DC-DC working n ~12.5v when u get DI error n contactors open (no DC-DC power)

Edit: another long shot possibility is ur coolant in LDU might have gotten to LV plug in the inverter (very common with failing units) causing low Voltage...
Have u checked speed sensor for coolant?

 

[Viyasan7]

So far I put the multimeter from the positive terminal from the DCDC converter and the negative terminal from the battery before I entered the car and when starting. Voltage basically just dropped below 12v and did not see any surge up to 14v... I checked the continuity from the positive LV 12V terminal from the DCDC converter to the negative terminal, should there be any continuity? I had none. See the photos for more information.

For the video you can hear the pumps run, right after I open the door it cut off, you can see the voltage drop once I start the car.

Also the power steering works so that means there is HV power?

My only observation was there was no continuity from the +LV and the -LV side of the DCDC converter, not sure if there should be ?

 

[Viyasan7]

To answer your question I do not get 12.5v without the DCDC converter running, it dropped to about 11.81V (even with the trickle charger connected running at 7.5A).

There was no spike in voltage from the +LV DCDC terminal to the negative prior to opening door.

I can't tell if I can hear the click, but the power steering works.

Where is the LDU and how do I check the speed sensor? I checked the coolant and it seems topped up.

 

[brainhouston]

i simply meant to put leads across 12v battery terminals n put multimeter where u can see it from the car, then watch the voltage
but sounds like a normal behavior for "everything" running from 12v battery (no DC-DC support)
when u open the car, then press brake it adds load n since u only have 12v, voltage drops (kind of like ICE car with failed alternator)
Not sure about LV +/- resistance but thats not a valid test so i wouldn't worry about it
Power steering (and most things in tesla, besides AC/PTC/battery heater) is powered by 12v, thats another huge load...
Next step is to figure out if ur DC-DC is broken or ur contactors never turn on to give it power in 1st place..

I can't find MS contactors sound but it should be similar to this (2 distinct fairly loud clunks):

And here's one with BMS errors (contactors not closing, only pre-charge one clicking):

LDU speed sensor check:

 

[brainhouston]

For the video you can hear the pumps run, right after I open the door it cut off, you can see the voltage drop once I start the car.

did u mean to attach or link a video?

 

[Viyasan7]

did u mean to attach or link a video?

I tried to but I am assuming you cannot attach a video here. The coolant pumps I believe are also LV?

Thanks again for your input on everything, it's greatly appreciated!

My next question was how do I go about testing the DCDC converter? I know I can do a continuity test for the PTC, AC COMPRESSOR and the BAT Heater. Is there anyway to test if the fuse from the DCDC to the 12V battery is good (assuming it has a fuse for that which I think it does have a 30A)?

I know you can test it if you take it apart but I really want to try avoiding that again!

 

[brainhouston]

u can just upload to youtube n post a link

1st things first, u need to figure out if contactors are closing and sending 400v to DC-DC
there's fuses inside DC-DC/front junction box
Do u have gen1? (behind pass side wheel well)
Gen2 is 2 pieces, Front junction box and DC-DC

I found this post:

DC - DC converter / AC compressor repair

@brkaus Thanks guys, things are looking much better in the morning. I closed the doors last night and went to bed, put the battery charger on this AM and checked voltage...3.4V now. I hit the "Charge Battery" and like magic everything came to life. My screen is showing 128 miles range inside so...

teslamotorsclub.com

Did u charge with 12v plugged in the car?

 

[Viyasan7]

u can just upload to youtube n post a link

1st things first, u need to figure out if contactors are closing and sending 400v to DC-DC
there's fuses inside DC-DC/front junction box
Do u have gen1? (behind pass side wheel well)
Gen2 is 2 pieces, Front junction box and DC-DC

I found this post:

DC - DC converter / AC compressor repair

@brkaus Thanks guys, things are looking much better in the morning. I closed the doors last night and went to bed, put the battery charger on this AM and checked voltage...3.4V now. I hit the "Charge Battery" and like magic everything came to life. My screen is showing 128 miles range inside so...

teslamotorsclub.com

Did u charge with 12v plugged in the car?

I checked, I could not here any clicks from the back (one click from the front, but that's likey the relays opening and closing).

My is a 2013 Tesla Model S P85+. 1st gen. I opened up the DCDC converter before to replace the AC fuse. I qas hoping to never have to open it up again. Is there a separate fuse for the 12v +LV inside the DCDC converter?

I never charged the 12v battery with a trickle charger while charging the main battery. The main battery won't even charge at this point.

Other though, I am debating to pay for the single day use of Toolbox 3. I'm curious if it just needs a hard reset, BMS reset or anything like that to get it up... Do you have any experience with Toolbox 3 that would be useful for testing/Diagnostics?