Because that is static, during cornering your car will gain camber. With so little neg camber you're reducing cornering grip.
After I posted that, I did some research and the consensus was between 1 and 2 and slightly more in the rear.
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Because that is static, during cornering your car will gain camber. With so little neg camber you're reducing cornering grip.
That tends to be how most performance cars are setup.After I posted that, I did some research and the consensus was between 1 and 2 and slightly more in the rear.
So for optimal camber for cornering and tire wear it should be something similar to: Front: +1, Rear +1.5?After I posted that, I did some research and the consensus was between 1 and 2 and slightly more in the rear.
Optimal camber for cornering and tire wear is going to depend on your driving style (how fast you go around corners). Personally, I check tire wear at the end of the summer when I swap to winter tires and adjust alignment if it looks like my tires aren't wearing evenly.So for optimal camber for cornering and tire wear it should be something similar to: Front: +1, Rear +1.5?
This!Optimal camber for cornering and tire wear is going to depend on your driving style (how fast you go around corners). Personally, I check tire wear at the end of the summer when I swap to winter tires and adjust alignment if it looks like my tires aren't wearing evenly.
Do you have a recommend installer in the Chicago area?
@Secret-EV . With the guidelines in this quote and with me stating that I drive 'grocery getter' style 80%-85% of the time but do like to drive spirited (hard cornering and aggressive acceleration) 15%-20% of the time, do you still recommend red/stealth shims or shift to silver recommendation? I know I will lose some cornering grip/improving tire wear by reducing camber but don't want to lose a large % of cornering grip.This!
If you commute on the highways and never push your car in the corners you need far less camber than someone who is attacking backroads on a regular basis. Optimum wear vs alignment settings is very user dependent.
@Secret-EV . With the guidelines in this quote and with me stating that I drive 'grocery getter' style 80%-85% of the time but do like to drive spirited (hard cornering and aggressive acceleration) 15%-20% of the time, do you still recommend red/stealth shims or shift to silver recommendation? I know I will lose some cornering grip/improving tire wear by reducing camber but don't want to lose a large % of cornering grip.
Ok, Good to know. I was doing some spirited driving through some long sweepers a few days ago and the car did not feel as planted as I was expecting. I know this is a big heavy SUV but it just felt like it had more it could give but something in the setup seemed off.Alignment can be pretty complicated based on the car, tire, track conditions, etc.
Generally, if you are talking about cornering ability, front camber will be more important. With the factory front camber at around -1 to -1.2 degrees, the cornering ability is limited. In other words, if you apply more negative camber on the rear with wider rear tires, all you will experience is understeer. (Front loss grip before the rear)
You will see most track alignments run more negative camber on the front to increase cornering traction and a bit less camber on the rear compared to the front to increase forward grip.
We don't believe that going with thicker shims will reduce cornering grip off the factroy setting. In fact, we think it will actually make the car feel more balanced for corner and better straight line performance.
Alignment can be pretty complicated based on the car, tire, track conditions, etc.
Generally, if you are talking about cornering ability, front camber will be more important. With the factory front camber at around -1 to -1.2 degrees, the cornering ability is limited. In other words, if you apply more negative camber on the rear with wider rear tires, all you will experience is understeer. (Front loss grip before the rear)
You will see most track alignments run more negative camber on the front to increase cornering traction and a bit less camber on the rear compared to the front to increase forward grip.
We don't believe that going with thicker shims will reduce cornering grip off the factroy setting. In fact, we think it will actually make the car feel more balanced for corner and better straight line performance.
We think Tesla added more camber to the rear for a purpose. They need to design the car for everyone, not just for drivers with high-level skills. It makes sense for the car to come out of the box with alignment settings leaning toward understeer, as understeer is easier to correct compared to oversteer.I would agree that typically more negative camber in the front is beneficial. However, I would disagree that thicker shims/less negative camber in the rear would not reduce cornering grip. No OEM or Tesla will say "this car needs more understeer/oversteer" and use the degree of negative camber to tune the feel. The reason is that you are sacrificing peak lateral g (read "grip") and tire wear. How much negative camber you need depends on driving style, tires, road conditions, and spring/suspension stiffness just to name a few. Realize there are much better ways to tune the balance of the MS or any car for that matter.
ANY suspension modification requires an alignment...Period!2022 Model S Long Range (not plaid) but with the upgraded 21" Arachnid wheels. Normal driver not going to tracks or ripping crazy around corners. Car has 18k miles on it and the rear inner tire edges are nearly bald. Which shims do I want? Who would be the best shop in Atlanta for both installation and re-alignment? Comparitively why do these require re-alignment however the macsboost do not? Anyone know the macsboost thickness for comparison? Wouldn't just normal same thickness bolt washers do the same thing? Need to make a decision on how i'm addressing the issue soon and am waffling on which solution makes the most sense.
yeah that's what I assumed just the macsboost website specifically says their shims don't require it... not sure why that would be or do they mean they give instructions on how to compensate toe-in for the resulting delta camber? ie maybe you just loosen the alignment lock nut and give it a half turn each or something straight forward?ANY suspension modification requires an alignment...Period!
Anyone who says it doesnt is just uninformed or lying (trying to sell more product).
The factory alignment on many Tesla has been proven to be horrible even BEFORE any modifications...
Good rule of thumb of when to do/check your alignment:
On my 2023 X I had it done at about 3500mi after installing generic 3mm shims and lowering with N2ITIVE links.
- Anytime you modify/replace/adjust suspension components.
- Anytime you replace a full set of tires.
- Anytime the vehicle will not track straight ahead and/or have impacted significant potholes.
- Otherwise every 2-years or less dependent on your annual mileage.
Obviously they want to sell more product while putting the responsibility on the owner to DIY a half-baked close enough blind adjustment. You just going to assume its balanced and within spec before adjustment?yeah that's what I assumed just the macsboost website specifically says their shims don't require it... not sure why that would be or do they mean they give instructions on how to compensate toe-in for the resulting delta camber? ie maybe you just loosen the alignment lock nut and give it a half turn each or something straight forward?
yeah that's what I assumed just the macsboost website specifically says their shims don't require it... not sure why that would be or do they mean they give instructions on how to compensate toe-in for the resulting delta camber? ie maybe you just loosen the alignment lock nut and give it a half turn each or something straight forward?
It doesn't work like that. You are shooting in the dark. Alignment matters. A lot! You need special equipment to do it right.Yes, they tell you how much to turn the toe adjust.
100%. Great advice.ANY suspension modification requires an alignment...Period!
Anyone who says it doesnt is just uninformed or lying (trying to sell more product).
The factory alignment on many Tesla has been proven to be horrible even BEFORE any modifications... And again, Toe settings out of spec will eat your tires and kill your efficiency just as much or more than excess Camber.
Good rule of thumb of when to do/check your alignment:
On my 2023 X I had it done at about 3500mi after installing generic 3mm shims and lowering with N2ITIVE links.
- Anytime you modify/replace/adjust suspension components.
- Anytime you replace a full set of tires.
- Anytime the vehicle will not track straight ahead and/or have impacted significant potholes.
- Otherwise every 2-years or less dependent on your annual mileage.