Vendor Instructions for facelift bumper/fascia installation on nosecone Model S

[FlatSix911]

Coming to the party late... I need some work to my old 2012 P85 bumper and was thinking of refreshing with the new style. Am I to understand that this is not recommended, or is there a parts list / guide I could forward to my body shop?

There is a parts list on another thread, however, the OP decided the additional cost of OEM parts and labor was equal to the cost of an aftermarket bumper. If you decide to go the OEM route, please post your experience on the forum.

 

[BobbyMartin]

The T Sportsline version is finally out. Any deposit holders get theirs yet?

I got mine, but I haven't even opened it yet. Waiting for a wiring harness and sensors so I can retrofit my parking sensors at the same time.

 

[Dborn]

Coming to the party late... I need some work to my old 2012 P85 bumper and was thinking of refreshing with the new style. Am I to understand that this is not recommended, or is there a parts list / guide I could forward to my body shop?

The easiest way is to replace with Unplugged performance fascia. It simply mounts the way the existing one does. HOWEVER, word of caution, be sure to instruct your panel shop that the new fascia is NOT to be heated under any circumstances, as heat deforms the type of plastic used. Heat is usually used to rapidly dry paint, and so, panel shops use it to speed up throughput.

 

[Victor P85]

Hello All,

I just finished doing the bumper refresh and will not sugar coat this sh**. i have attached a .pdf which has almost all the things that you may find necessary to do the conversion. the schematics are missing the lower grill duct & under bumper tray.
Here's what I did: Bought a bumper from ebay locally ($225) then went to local auto paint shop and purchased paint matched primer, PPG base, & clear coat ($300).I was quoted $1000 to do this and it pissed me off so I decided to do it myself in my garage . Got the bumper home and had to seal up the parking sensors-so I used my plastic welder with metal mesh on back side until flush (1.5 hrs). Followed by using plastic filler to make it super flush after sanding (0.5 hrs). Sanded the entire bumper with 220 grit sand paper then sprayed primer over the whole thing--and sanded (3 hrs). Sprayed 4 layers of base coat then sanded with 600 grit the next day (3 hrs). Sprayed 3 coats of clear then sanded with 600 grit next day (3 hrs). Sprayed 3 more clear coats and sanded with 1000,2000, then buffed with polishing compound until glassy. Finally bumper is painted!
Pulled the car onto my ramps and easily removed the bumper with 10 mm bolts, 2 torx screws, and a bunch plastic holders (20 min first time ever). There's a center radiator plastic that needs to be removed fromt he car as well (2 min). Removed the louvers from each side (torx screws) then the fog lights. Installed the fog lights on the new bumper and attempted to do the louvers but the hole is not the same (that's what she said). I had to cut away the new bumper hole to make it more shallow and used the old bumper as a template (do not freestyle it!). After getting and acceptable fit- I had to plastic weld 2 mounting screw holes for each side louver closest to the center line of the bumper. there are 4 total (2 screw into the fog light) center 2 are non existent. At this point I realized this kind of stuff is all about problem solving (4 hrs). Bumper is ready!
Mounted the bumper (5 min). Done! I will upload some pics of what I did later. Hope this helps wrap your brain around whats needed. This should be considered enjoyment BTW b/c a lot of time was spent sweating in the garage.

 

[Victor P85]

Attached are the parts I purchased for $259. Did not order the lower grill duct ($179) nor the under bumper plastic. I'm cheap and waiting for it to appear on ebay for a reasonable price.

 

[BobbyMartin]

I'm excited to see the result, Victor. I'm still waiting on my sensors to come in later this week so I can install my front bumper and complete my parking sensor retrofit.

 

[Victor P85]

Thanks! I have started another thread since this one is so long where i will be posting everything.

 

[BobbyMartin]

Starting to think maybe I should have just done this instead of ordering the T Sportline version.

 

[Victor P85]

My new thread is: Model S Front Bumper Refresh Instructions

 

[kev1n]

has anyone done this conversion that has AP1? since the lower grill isnt a plug n play and that is where the radar sensor is, what did you guys end up doing?

where was the sensor moved to in AP1 refresh cars? can that be used?

 

[MINInDalila]

Thanks! I have started another thread since this one is so long where i will be posting everything.

View attachment 306748

This is the pre facelift hood, right?

 

[Victor P85]

Yes (old hood) all in at about $775 and a bunch of free labor.

 

[Lifeinabox]

Starting to think maybe I should have just done this instead of ordering the T Sportline version.

Did you install the TSportsline one yet? I was leaning towards it, but, man, the all-in price is costly.

 

[BobbyMartin]

Next week. I'm waiting on the next 6 sensors I ordered to come in so I can finish my parking sensor retrofit at the same time I install the bumper. Once it's all installed I have to send everything off to get painted.

 

[markn455]

This might be a little off topic but I have had people ask if it's possible to go from the face lift bumper back to the Nose Cone bumper. Actually, I personally like the Nose Cone look better...BUT not enough to want to modify my 2018 MS

 

[Seagee]

I've been giving this more thought and I think there's a simpler solution -- a single piece that fills the gap and curves from the top of the bumper v to the top of the hood. The OEM T assembly will be eliminated and the old T would be placed on the outer surface of the piece. The opening would be gone and the aerodynamics improved.

There's another Tesla in the shop at SDR for repairs that's also in line for the facelift upgrade but without a new hood. If I can get the owner's permission I may be able to work with SDR to get this piece designed.

Comments?

artsci (and anyone else), since the top portion of the nosecone that holds the T already fits flush with the old hood, is there a way to re-purpose that portion of the nosecone to fill the gap between the refresh bumper and the old hood ?

 

[Victor P85]

I did this same thing before I solved the issue by just bending the plastic upward. It does NOT work. The trim pieces has a curvature that is mean to be sticking out in front of the hood or at least at its edge. I heated the piece and changed it to have less radius curvature but it doesn't look right-since the gap fill should be hidden and almost unnoticeable. Also, when you tuck the trim piece in farther under the hood there is another curvature backwards. The trim piece doesn't work for that direction b/c if you are able to fit the curvature (totally possible) when the hood is open the edges will be non existent. You have to remove the left and right sides about 3 1/3 inches which makes it look like crap. Just heat the plastic and bend it upward. in my "Model S Front Bumper Refresh Instructions" thread I post a pic-after bending one side.

 

[artsci]

Another thing. Very likely with these mods the front end will vibrate at speeds above 45mph and/or 70mph. It feels like a steering wheel problem but it's completely aerodynamic I had that problem for months until I replaced the upper grille cover with this part: GRILLE COVER UPR, FR FASCIA MS2 (1057847-00-E). With this part the vibration is gone.

 

[MP3Mike]

Another thing. Very likely with these mods the front end will vibrate at speeds above 45mph and/or 70mph. It feels like a steering wheel problem but it's completely aerodynamic I had that problem for months until I replaced the upper grille cover with this part: GRILLE COVER UPR, FR FASCIA MS2 (1057847-00-E). With this part the vibration is gone.

You wouldn't happen to have a picture of that part would you?

 

[Akikiki]

Another thing. Very likely with these mods the front end will vibrate at speeds above 45mph and/or 70mph. It feels like a steering wheel problem but it's completely aerodynamic I had that problem for months until I replaced the upper grille cover with this part: GRILLE COVER UPR, FR FASCIA MS2 (1057847-00-E). With this part the vibration is gone.

Wow. Guys, this is the kind of information that is priceless and makes TMC so valuable and popular. There's not hundreds of aftermarket custom shops with fabricators and mechanics that have been working on Teslas for dozens of years each. There's not that corporate knowledge or shared common experience that everybody knows about with the Tesla -yet. Where else can a Tesla owner thousands of miles away find out how someone on the east coast solved a problem both owners are having? Learning how-to and using what someone else experienced and solved without each person re-inventing the same wheel, is that AH HA moment. It takes time to unselfishly share the details and answer questions with posts. Victor P85 and artsci and everybody else, thank you for what you share with the rest of us.