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Is there a reason to get the Tesla wall connector over other level 2 home chargers?

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I'm considering getting a Model Y but prior to that I want to have my home charging solution ready to go. The Tesla wall connector would make sense at least for this first electric vehicle but I wouldn't want to lock myself into Tesla's without having to pay for an adapter down the road.

So my question is, for Tesla owners, is there a reason to prefer the Tesla wall connector over other home level to chargers that have the Tesla adaptor (NACS I think) built-in? For example, does using a non Tesla charger at home have some impact on the warranty for the vehicle, or does using the Tesla wall connector bring some advantages with charging compared to other chargers?

P.s. I know Tessa will be coming out with a different wall connector in October that will have the adapter that most other manufacturers in North America need right now, but my current lease will be up in October so I would ideally have my charging solution ready well before then.
 
Couple of things.

First, let me say that, in general, I agree with you about the cost and need of a battery back-up system. My place has 9 kW of solar panels on the roof, about 7.8 kW delivered to the grid (under best conditions), and the whole system generates around 12 MW-hr of energy over a year's time. Which is, what with LED bulbs and the kids being out of the house, about 2 or 3 MW-hr more than I actually use.

In New Jersey, the Public Utilities Commission and the State Legislature have it rigged so that homeowners and such with solar power sell their energy to the local utilities for wholesale, pretty much like any other generator of electricity, be it dams, nuclear power, coal, or what-all. When we use electricity, we more-or-less pay retail, just like anybody else. To encourage solar, the State also threw in a tariff (that is, the rules) that if one is grid-tied, one can sign up for something called Net Metering. This works by adding up, over a month's time, the inflows into a house and the outflows out of a house, then subtracting. If the difference is negative (i.e., the house generated more energy than it used) then the difference is carried over to the next month and one pays a $5 connection fee. In the next month, the math is applied again, adding the carry-over amount from the previous month: If it's still negative then, again, one doesn't pay anything except for that connection fee. If the total is positive, then one pays for electrical energy on the positive amount and the carry-forward term is zeroed out.

At the end of a year, usually in the sprint, the carry-forward amount, if present, is zeroed out and one gets paid the wholesale value of the Net (which is why it's called Net Metering). If there's a MW-hr or so left over, then one gets, maybe, $150 or so. Which one typically leaves on the account to take care of those $5 connection fees 😁.

Given the above, it's hard to see where paying a few thousand bucks for a Powerwall or some equivalent is going to actually make any money, even over the long term. There are other US States where this bit about carrying the difference forward isn't used; and some particularly nasty states where one gets paid wholesale for excess energy right off, and pays retail on energy used right off; so it's very, very difficult to zero out one's bill in any month. For those people, a Powerwall or two may actually pay for itself by preventing energy from being delivered to the house, at all, and the payback for the Powerwall or equivalent may only take a year or three.

But, never mind that: The Cybertruck has the capability of dishing just as much AC power out of the NACS connector as it can take in. For Tesla, that's new. (Ford has been advertising something like this for half a year, now.. but it may not involve the J1772/CCS1 connector on the car.)

This may be something that, as Teslas get updated over time and new Teslas eventually appear, may become common. And, if so, some modest, relatively low cost electrical gear in the house may be able to disconnect the house from the power grid and power the house from the car. Ta-Da! A Powerwall on wheels!

Since most of the cost of a Powerwall is in the battery and the car already has a battery, this may be a win-win: A couple of hundred bucks (or maybe a thou) gets one a battery back-up that's relatively cheap and worth the expense.
Yes in the beginning here in Denmark we also had this "If i send 1000 KW to the grid i can get them back anytime and not have to pay". Essentially a "bank" where i could deposit a kilowatt and not have to pay when i withdrew it later on.

This deal was pretty good, but also too good as the price for a kilowatt in the middle of summer is usually a lot cheaper than one in the dead of winter, so the power companies lost money on those who had "cheap kilowatts" from summer, stored and bought back in winter.

Now they do a deal where you have a summation meter, my solar system measures the immideate load i have and try to match it. Every kilowatt i use at the same time i send a kilowatt to the grid is not charged so the only "price" i pay is what i could have sold it for.

Here a battery system makes perfect sense because when the sun goes down i start using the battery to continue to match what i use, so that i dont pay for electricity at night.

The system you have, the battery wont make much sense because in a sense, you use "the grid" to store your surplus solar.

My system right now has 7200 watt solar panels and a 6 kw battery, and can only deliver 3.6 kw to the grid so with this system i have to charge very slowly as i can not get above 3.6 kw combined or i have to pay.

My new system i am having installed this week will be 10KW battery and an inverter that can do 11 kw.

Next addition will be another 10 panels to get me to 11 kw panels as well, in that case i can charge the car at ~10 kw (house uses a bit also) which will be a huge improvement, i will be able to essentially charge the car up on a sunny day from "0-100".

Also the 6 kw battery is not able to take me through the night other than in the peak summer months, with a 10KW battery i will be a lot less dependent and the system can even be upgraded further and i have already installed it so that i can get another 5 kw installed easily. Best part of the new system is....I dont need to time it so that the wife can run the washer, dishwasher and the tumbler dryer at different times, she can just fire them up, and the charger i bought will auto-adjust.

Cost a bit of money, but in the long run, it will be earn itself back in saved electricity.

As said, even if electricity os 0 ct i am saving 20ct on every kilowatt i do not buy.

The old system i am going to put in the shed, stick 4 panels onto it and then run it "offgrid" this way it will also make me a bit of money, i was looking into selling it, but it is not worth a lot, it is simply to small for most users nowadays.
 
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Even if you just want it for emergencies, fine, you've kept your lights on and food cold, but you may then not have a car that you can use to evacuate, or go buy more food or do anything else during the emergency.
Last winter my power was out for 36 hours after a snow storm (heavy wet snow, lots of downed wires). I have 2 powerwalls (27 kWh) and used roughly 80% of that (no solar generation - cloudy and snow-covered panels).

The battery in my Y ~3 times the size. I could easily power my house from a V2H-equipped Tesla for a 2 day outage and use less than 1/3 of the battery. Plenty of power to go get food, supplies, top off at the supercharger, etc.
 
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I do NOT recommend Lectron.

Here's why:

I ordered the Lectron 48a with NACS a week ago. The website said 2 business day shipping. I was notified today they were out of stock with no idea when it would be available. They also charged my card before actually shipping. I have asked for a refund. I won’t buy Lectron crap again.
 
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Yeah, that Lectron was the one that I was somewhat weirded out by.

If one has a NEMA14-50, then, never mind the wire, the socket itself is only good for 50A. Which means using a 50A breaker, max.

And the NEC says that a 50A breaker, wire, or socket can't be run more than 80% of the circuit rating with a continuous, heavy load. That's a Tesla. That means 40A charging, period.

The only way that Lectron can do 48A is if, and only if, it's on a 60A circuit. And, given that there's no 60A sockets, the thing would have to be hardwired to that 60A circuit, just like a Tesla Wall Connector.

Not putting that up in the advertisement front and center is more than a little dodgy - some idiot really is going to put a 48A load on a 50A circuit that's not rated for that much current, and something's a-going to blow. It might be the breaker, which would vaguely be safeish. But an on-fire NEC14-50 or, worse, on-fire wire in the walls isn't anybody's idea of Good, since Not Burning Houses Down is what the NEC is all about.
 
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In my opinion, it's definitely not worth the $13 savings to buy the Lectron V-Box 48A over a Tesla Wall Connector for a number of reasons. The Lectron:

  • Only has a 2-year warranty. The WC has a 4-year warranty.
  • Only has 20-ft. cable. The WC has a 24-ft. cable.
 
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And the NEC says that a 50A breaker, wire, or socket can't be run more than 80% of the circuit rating with a continuous, heavy load. That's a Tesla. That means 40A charging, period.

The only way that Lectron can do 48A is if, and only if, it's on a 60A circuit. And, given that there's no 60A sockets, the thing would have to be hardwired to that 60A circuit, just like a Tesla Wall Connector.
Dodgy at best. NEC say all EV charging, regardless of duration, must be treated as a continuous load.

There actually is a 14-60 outlet, but it's pretty rare. I've only seen one once (steam table in a cafeteria). It looks like a 14-50 with the neutral blade rotated 90 degrees:

Screenshot 2023-12-17 at 7.54.14 PM.png
 
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Dodgy at best. NEC say all EV charging, regardless of duration, must be treated as a continuous load.

There actually is a 14-60 outlet, but it's pretty rare. I've only seen one once (steam table in a cafeteria). It looks like a 14-50 with the neutral blade rotated 90 degrees:

View attachment 1000532
I stand corrected. But, y'know, not sure I'd trust such a thing all that much. Every time a connector is plugged in and unplugged, it undergoes wear. That's one reason that the Home Depot NEMA14-50's are so unreliable: It's likely that the use case for those is for, say, an electric stove, where it gets plugged in or unplugged maybe ten times in its life.

The Much More Expensive, industrial grade NEMA14-50's have a lot more metal in them, are designed for multiple cycles, and cost a heck of a lot more than the Home Depot specials.

I'd... guess... that the NEMA14-60 standard says that one of these can handle a 60A circuit, 48A continuous, and the manufacturer has test sheets and such to prove it. But one would have to do a seriously deep dive to determine how many plug/unplug cycles such a connector, from a particular manufacturer, can take.

I'd just rather hard wire the Wall Connector, from whoever, and quit fooling around.
 
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That's one reason that the Home Depot NEMA14-50's are so unreliable
Not sure why you do not want to write "Leviton 279-S00", since Home Depot sells several brands of 14-50 receptacles, not all of which have half size contacts to the plug blades like the Leviton 279-S00. The half size contacts mean more resistance and heat generation compared to full size contacts used on most other receptacles.
 
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After talking to several Tesla owners from NJ, I went with Chargepoint hardwired model. The main reason being, the ability to use off peak hours rate if you share the usage numbers with the utility company. Tesla does not allow to share usage stats thus making it ineligible for the reduced rate.
 
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Here's a link to an older post comparing the Hubbell, Bryant, Cooper and Leviton brand 14-50R receptacles (ordered here from best quality to worst). Great post because it has pictures of each one. Basically, the Leviton is a cheap, terrible design, probably good enough for your oven, but not an industrial quality receptacle appropriate for a large number of insertion/removal cycles like you may have with a mobile EV charger.
 
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Here's a link to an older post comparing the Hubbell, Bryant, Cooper and Leviton brand 14-50R receptacles (ordered here from best quality to worst). Great post because it has pictures of each one. Basically, the Leviton is a cheap, terrible design, probably good enough for your oven, but not an industrial quality receptacle appropriate for a large number of insertion/removal cycles like you may have with a mobile EV charger.

The initial post of that thread has a lot of irrelevant information. Post #60 is the one that shows why the Leviton 279-S00 is problematic -- the contacts to the plug blades are half size compared to full size contacts in other receptacles.
 
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Post #60 is the one that shows why the Leviton 279-S00 is problematic -- the contacts to the plug blades are half size compared to full size contacts in other receptacles.
Well, that's one of the problems. Other problems are the material of the contacts, the material of the body of the receptacle itself, and the wire retention method. :)
 
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The screw down wire retention method is the same as in many other -50 receptacles (including the Bryant 9650 for NEMA 6-50), so it is not unusually bad like the smaller plug blade contacts.
Still, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link - all the links must be strong. :) You can have great a great wire retention method and the receptacle can be made out of diamond, but if the contact material/force/surface area are inferior...well...you know the rest. :)

Notice that the screws on the industrial-grade Bryant/Hubbell (gotta be careful here, because Bryan/Hubbell also make residential-grade models) use a hex driver which can apply much more torque than the slotted/Phillips screws on lesser receptacles.
 
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After talking to several Tesla owners from NJ, I went with Chargepoint hardwired model. The main reason being, the ability to use off peak hours rate if you share the usage numbers with the utility company. Tesla does not allow to share usage stats thus making it ineligible for the reduced rate.
Hello - can you clarify do you know if the Tesla charger at least qualifies for the PSE&G rebate?
 
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Hello - can you clarify do you know if the Tesla charger at least qualifies for the PSE&G rebate?
It appears the "charger" must be Energy Star certified. Tesla's Wall Connector became certified in March of 2023, but it has since lost that certification. I don't know if this is due to a software change or if the device never actually met Energy Star criteria and was certified in error or if the criteria changed.


 
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