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Jack Stand Comparison

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I bought the Reverse Logic part and think it looks good. Haven't been able to use it yet, but it appears to be a very solid piece. There seem to be two main differences between the two parts, at least as far as I can tell in pictures/videos. The RL is round (which works well with my Harbor Freight 3-Ton jack's pad) and uses friction (that's the O-ring) to hold the pad in the Tesla's hole. The Murphy's Law part uses a magnet to hold itself to the car.

I'd rather have the magnet, seems a bit more clever and less likely to wear, but given the round shape of my jack and the cost difference, I'm happy with the RL. Just my two cents...
 
keep in mind, if you're planning to rotate tires, you can't use jack + adapter unless you have a spare wheel. you'll need jackstands so the car doesn't roll and fall off.

I guess you'd have to elaborate on that one a bit. Generally speaking you wouldn't want to use a single jack point on ANY car to jack the car up enough to get both wheels off on the same side. The frame on the Tesla and some other cars for that matter don't have jack points that are conducive to lifting the car that far up... there's a possibility you'd be allowing the frame to flex which is not good.

However "rolling off" shouldn't be the main thing you'd be worried about in such a situation.
 
I have both of these and they both work great. However, I prefer the round design of the reverse logic one. Just a personal preference.
keep in mind, if you're planning to rotate tires, you can't use jack + adapter unless you have a spare wheel. you'll need jackstands so the car doesn't roll and fall off.
The jack pad adapters are primarily used for people that are swapping wheels or are at a shop getting a tire repaired or changed.

I have customers that have the need to rotate their tires and the solution to the problem is really very easy, two jack pads and two floor jacks. Harbor freight sells than1.5 ton low profile aluminum floor jack which works very well and they are very inexpensive.

Then I have a lot of people that buy 4 and have their own lifts.
To address the fitment question, my kack pad having the rubber bottoms give an extra security of density intrusion which gives just enough “give” to allow the jack saddle a grove which holds better and still give ample gap between itself and the cars factory jack point as seen in the picture above.

Floor jacks work best when you can get the saddle as far inward as you can on the lifting surface to gain a better inward mount as floor jacks move under the car as it’s lifted as long as the jack and it’s mount area allows.

The pads I make were made from many months of working in the field and seeing why works best from the rubber density to the 3d material and even the magnet draw.
These are not just something a company made on a whim to add to their collection of parts, these are speciality tools.

I personally think the round design works well but when you really look at design, form and fitment my product gives a better and a safer solution.

6FC187CD-AACD-4AE3-9305-595E8C5F859C.jpeg
 
I guess you'd have to elaborate on that one a bit. Generally speaking you wouldn't want to use a single jack point on ANY car to jack the car up enough to get both wheels off on the same side.
The frame on any car should be strong enough to lift both wheels on one side from a single jack point. You only have to go a little bit higher to get both wheels off the ground. If the frame were that weak it would bend going diagonally up driveways. I suppose it's possible they made the jack points themselves weak but that we're only talking about 2000lbs of force here.
 
The frame on any car should be strong enough to lift both wheels on one side from a single jack point. You only have to go a little bit higher to get both wheels off the ground. If the frame were that weak it would bend going diagonally up driveways. I suppose it's possible they made the jack points themselves weak but that we're only talking about 2000lbs of force here.

You might be right but I won't be doing it any time soon. If they wanted me to jack the car up so that both wheels were cleared on the same side of the vehicle they easily could have put a jack-point mid-frame... but they didn't.
 
That word “frame” I think is what most people don’t fully understand that Tesla doesn’t have a frame like a truck or 1990s car, it’s a pressed unibody structure.

I personally have lifted the entire side of a all Tesla models and was able to lift the while vehicle from one jack point not because I wanted to but because in each instance the vehicle was in such a spot that the flat tire corner was unable tire be lifted safely due to debris or an unlevel surface but mainly because there just wasn’t enough space there to do so safely.

I don’t really think Tesla could get it’s phenomenal crash test ratings if the lifting of both corners off the ground from one jack point would warp or tweak the bottom of the vehicle especially if it were just a few minutes to rotate the tires and if it takes you more time than that you probably shouldn’t be trying to do it in the first place.

And lastly to answer the always brought up subject of “hockey puck” or 2x4, sure it might work in a very low number of cases and save you $25 in price difference, would you really chance screwing up thousands of dollars of damaged parts for that $25 savings? Grab a pipe or a rock next time you need a hammer I heard they work just as well.

Back to the point yes both products work, which one works best for you is all in perception. Which one is a tested product and which one would you use on something that’s you spend as much as a summer home on in rent monthly?
 
The jack pad adapters are primarily used for people that are swapping wheels or are at a shop getting a tire repaired or changed.

I have customers that have the need to rotate their tires and the solution to the problem is really very easy, two jack pads and two floor jacks. Harbor freight sells than1.5 ton low profile aluminum floor jack which works very well and they are very inexpensive.

Then I have a lot of people that buy 4 and have their own lifts.
To address the fitment question, my kack pad having the rubber bottoms give an extra security of density intrusion which gives just enough “give” to allow the jack saddle a grove which holds better and still give ample gap between itself and the cars factory jack point as seen in the picture above.

Floor jacks work best when you can get the saddle as far inward as you can on the lifting surface to gain a better inward mount as floor jacks move under the car as it’s lifted as long as the jack and it’s mount area allows.

The pads I make were made from many months of working in the field and seeing why works best from the rubber density to the 3d material and even the magnet draw.
These are not just something a company made on a whim to add to their collection of parts, these are speciality tools.

I personally think the round design works well but when you really look at design, form and fitment my product gives a better and a safer solution.

View attachment 292017

Basically, I was thinking, while wheels on ground, break loose the wheel nuts so I can use tire iron to removed them once in the air.

Then use 1.5 ton jack to raise and use this pair to hold up one side of the car and keep it up with these (Jack stands with Tesla Pads).
Then use the jack to lift the back on the opposite side to rotate 3 tires while also crossing one tire from rear to front on opposite side.

Lower the car.

Jack the car's opposite side and swap the wheels.

I believe it will still be safe and the minimum amount of effort.

However, if there are better options which are safe, I'll consider them.

I will still need one of the items listed by op.
 
I don't like keeping it lifted on three points for longer than it takes to get the fourth point up because there tends to be see-saw action on the unsupported corner. If you're going to jack three points I'd just go ahead and put one more stand/jack for the fourth corner. Obv use stands if you'll be up for more than few minutes and especially if you plan to get under the car.
 
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That word “frame” I think is what most people don’t fully understand that Tesla doesn’t have a frame like a truck or 1990s car, it’s a pressed unibody structure.

I personally have lifted the entire side of a all Tesla models and was able to lift the while vehicle from one jack point not because I wanted to but because in each instance the vehicle was in such a spot that the flat tire corner was unable tire be lifted safely due to debris or an unlevel surface but mainly because there just wasn’t enough space there to do so safely.

I don’t really think Tesla could get it’s phenomenal crash test ratings if the lifting of both corners off the ground from one jack point would warp or tweak the bottom of the vehicle especially if it were just a few minutes to rotate the tires and if it takes you more time than that you probably shouldn’t be trying to do it in the first place.

And lastly to answer the always brought up subject of “hockey puck” or 2x4, sure it might work in a very low number of cases and save you $25 in price difference, would you really chance screwing up thousands of dollars of damaged parts for that $25 savings? Grab a pipe or a rock next time you need a hammer I heard they work just as well.

Back to the point yes both products work, which one works best for you is all in perception. Which one is a tested product and which one would you use on something that’s you spend as much as a summer home on in rent monthly?


Scare tactics to sell product sounds good to me. Your product seems to flex quite a bit under load. See your posted pictures. From what I remember it's 3d printed from plastic. Anyways. I'm not discounting that your product does not work. People are buying it because it's a thought out product and some would spend to make their life easier and are scared when sellers like you say, "will you want to risk thousands of dollars to save twenty five bucks." We are discussing literally a block to help lift up a car. It's not rocket science.
 
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And lastly to answer the always brought up subject of “hockey puck” or 2x4, sure it might work in a very low number of cases and save you $25 in price difference, would you really chance screwing up thousands of dollars of damaged parts for that $25 savings? Grab a pipe or a rock next time you need a hammer I heard they work just as well.
I wasn't going to mention it but after the remarks above I will. The Murphy's Law person sent me a PM after I posted earlier in this thread. Screenshots attached.

Screenshot_20180405-195607.jpg Screenshot_20180405-195619.jpg

I really don't care for a vendor pestering people after station their opinions of a product. Perhaps a moderator should be notified?
 
Now let’s show the whole conversation so it’s not misconstrued, having the rest of it is a bit more clear. I offered to refund you your purchase as it sounded like you preferred the other brand which you stated you didn’t want a refund and that you carried my product in your car to boot, that’s where is asked you if you would add that to your post which you forgot take a screen shot of.

And for the pestering bit, I have been answering questions and clearing up misconceptions to make sure people that asked had the whole answer not a partial or misleading one.


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Scare tactics to sell product sounds good to me. Your product seems to flex quite a bit under load. See your posted pictures. From what I remember it's 3d printed from plastic. Anyways. I'm not discounting that your product does not work. People are buying it because it's a thought out product and some would spend to make their life easier and are scared when sellers like you say, "will you want to risk thousands of dollars to save twenty five bucks." We are discussing literally a block to help lift up a car. It's not rocket science.

A fact is not a scare tactic and I believe most of us here are old enough and wise enough to recognize that.
You stayed a hockey puck is just as good as either of the two before mentioned speciality tools, it’s not.
When I started doing tire service for Tesla 3.5 years ago I tried a few versions of hockey pucks not because I wanted to but because I had no other choice as there wasn’t anything else out there to use which brought me to start making my own tool.
You can use a 12 point socket on a 6 point bolt is you have to and it may work in a few situations but to say it works just as good as a speciality tool come now.

Yes in my pictures you see a flex/give but only in the rubber bottoms piece and it’s designed to do just that to give a better grip between the jack saddle and the tool, It took me weeks to test and find the right density/resistance and give for just that.
And it’s a ABS material not a plastic which refers to cheap.

And lastly to the “it’s not rocket science” I say to you “it’s not a 1996 Chevy Corsica” your lifting either.

Use a hockey puck, a 2x4 or what ever your heart desires but don’t just use it because you we able to make something work once.
 
The pis-ing matches that happen in a few of these forums are beyond the age and education of its inhabitants I am still amazed.
I can be a little too passionate about things I know and work with on a daily basis but to argue over something just for emotions sake I won’t do.