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Jack Stand Comparison

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A fact is not a scare tactic and I believe most of us here are old enough and wise enough to recognize that.
You stayed a hockey puck is just as good as either of the two before mentioned speciality tools, it’s not.
When I started doing tire service for Tesla 3.5 years ago I tried a few versions of hockey pucks not because I wanted to but because I had no other choice as there wasn’t anything else out there to use which brought me to start making my own tool.
You can use a 12 point socket on a 6 point bolt is you have to and it may work in a few situations but to say it works just as good as a speciality tool come now.

Yes in my pictures you see a flex/give but only in the rubber bottoms piece and it’s designed to do just that to give a better grip between the jack saddle and the tool, It took me weeks to test and find the right density/resistance and give for just that.
And it’s a ABS material not a plastic which refers to cheap.

And lastly to the “it’s not rocket science” I say to you “it’s not a 1996 Chevy Corsica” your lifting either.

Use a hockey puck, a 2x4 or what ever your heart desires but don’t just use it because you we able to make something work once.
What facts? I haven't seen anyone here post anything concrete about why one thing is better than another.
 
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The jack pad adapters are primarily used for people that are swapping wheels or are at a shop getting a tire repaired or changed.

I have customers that have the need to rotate their tires and the solution to the problem is really very easy, two jack pads and two floor jacks. Harbor freight sells than1.5 ton low profile aluminum floor jack which works very well and they are very inexpensive.

Then I have a lot of people that buy 4 and have their own lifts.
To address the fitment question, my kack pad having the rubber bottoms give an extra security of density intrusion which gives just enough “give” to allow the jack saddle a grove which holds better and still give ample gap between itself and the cars factory jack point as seen in the picture above.

Floor jacks work best when you can get the saddle as far inward as you can on the lifting surface to gain a better inward mount as floor jacks move under the car as it’s lifted as long as the jack and it’s mount area allows.

The pads I make were made from many months of working in the field and seeing why works best from the rubber density to the 3d material and even the magnet draw.
These are not just something a company made on a whim to add to their collection of parts, these are speciality tools.

I personally think the round design works well but when you really look at design, form and fitment my product gives a better and a safer solution.

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I just bought 4 of the jack pads today since I do a lot of my own work on my cars. I am going to be lowering the car and need to put the car on jack stands. I was wondering if these jack pads will work with the normal jack stands and prevent the top fork on the jack stands to make an indentation on the in battery pack side and the outside lower trim.
 
I just bought 4 of the jack pads today since I do a lot of my own work on my cars. I am going to be lowering the car and need to put the car on jack stands. I was wondering if these jack pads will work with the normal jack stands and prevent the top fork on the jack stands to make an indentation on the in battery pack side and the outside lower trim.
There isn’t enough space to use a regular jackstand and the factory lift area is at an incline. Looks like about 15-20% from eyeing it.
The only way I would recommend is doing one side then the other, I did have one customer say he bought a low set of jack stands that had a round base instead of the normal style head and he was able to lift one corner on one side and get the car high enough to set the other corner down on that jack stand.
I don’t remember what brand the stands were but I remember they were pricey.
I highly recommend to do one side at a time being driver side then passenger side as again the factory lift area is very small and angled outward.

There is no other place Tesla says you can lift or pivot weight on other than those 4 small points.
 

I have the (Safe Jack) RennStands and use with a low profile jack. I've used the stands on my F-Type and Highlander, but haven't tried on my Model 3 yet. You have to raise a bit higher than intended to get the legs on, but then lower to to the correct height. Saved me a bunch of time on the Highlander. The F-type required the RennStands or similar due to limited area to place both floor jack and jackstand separately.
 
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That's a nice setup, but at $125 * 4 for the Rennstands and another 4*19 for the porsche adapters, I think I'd personally go this route, the 5,000 lb version available from Costco for $1075 should work... and what's more would work on all my current vehicles... I'm tempted to do it;

That's nice, but for $400 more you can get a 6000lb 56" scissor lift at HF.

6000 Lb. Capacity Scissor Lift

And if you're gonna spend $1500 on a lift, why not get a beefier lift?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/9-000-LB-L2900-2-Post-Car-Lift-Auto-Truck-Hoist-FREE-SHIPPING

And then convert your home into a Tesla shop?
 
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