JdeMO for the Roadster?

[TonyWilliams]

Yes, either the diffuser screen (1.5 / 2.0 cars) or the rear facia (2.5 cars) must have an opening cut to allow access to the charge port. If you don't want to cut the original, buy another from Tesla. That's why we picked the relatively low cost plastic / screen as the access point.

The large PEM on the 1.5 cars require three holes in the PEM. The 2.0 / 2.5 cars can also drill holes or use our junction box that requires no holes.

1) 2.0 & 2.5 cars can be equipped with JdeMO with no permanent modifications of any kind

2) 1.5 cars require three holes in the PEM

 

[Roadster]

I hope the folks on the SPEAKEV.COM Roadster forum don't mind me reposting below what Tony wrote there RE: the installation workflow but it's pretty involved. Hats off to all you DIY'rs out there taking this on

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From "CHAdeMO for Tesla Roadster, Quick Charge Power JdeMO deposits" on SPEAKEV.COM

In order of operations:

Disassembly:

1) all tools assembled, car on a lift, shipping box opened (15 min)

2) Disable high voltage at VDMS (2 min)

EXTERIOR

3) Optional - Remove passenger side rear wheel and wheel well liner (15 min, not fun to do)

4) Optional - Remove mechanical high voltage safety plug (5 min)

5) Remove rear and mid underbody panels (5 min)

6) Remove "snow dam" if equipped (??? I've never seen one)

7) Remove anti-sway bar (5 min)

8) Remove blower(s) from rear bulkhead and push rubber manifold into cavity - don't lose metal spacers (5 min)

8a) For cars with dual blowers, remove plastic blower manifold (20 minutes, scraped knuckles, words used that are not intended for small children to hear)

9) Remove wiring for TPMS, transmission control (early cars only!!!) and any other wires in the way to mount the hardware on the bulkhead (1 min)

10) Remove rear diffuser... it's easier to do this after the blowers are removed (10min)

INTERIOR

11) Remove passenger side door threshold panel, "coin" dash panel, and dash fuse block panel, and find the electric service plug (OBD2?) (15 min)

1+38 man hours estimate for disassembly (that's what Sam and I could do). You need to factor in some clean up and corroded bolts in your part of the world.

************

INSTALLATION

1) Run "fish" wire and pull external low voltage harness through:
a. the frame rail
b. carefully pull through opening between body and battery with fingers
c. fish between PEM and battery
d. put through opening at JdeMO control box (where high voltage cables will also go)
e. Zip tie to brake line

Tough to estimate, but two guys with experience fishing wires would do this in (15 min)

DO NOT PLUG INTO CAR OBD2 UNTIL LAST STEP AFTER YOU HAVE CONFIRMED CAR WILL RESTART WITHOUT FAULT CODES !!!

1a) OPTIONAL FOR SINGLE BLOWER CARS - drill two mounting holes for M6 bolts in Roadster bulkhead without damaging any nearby wires (5 min)

1b) OPTIONAL - check Roadster bulkhead for irregularities from welding and grind down any high points, and paint any bare metal (10-15 min)

2) Mount JdeMO bulkhead, reinstall plastic and rubber air manifolds in their proper location, mount blower motors (10 min for everything except that plastic manifold... 15 more min just to install that)

3) Mount anti-sway bar (5 min)

4) Mount JdeMO control box using only upper right M6 bolt (so the unit will drop down on the left side to allow access to where the high voltage cables must run (5 min)
DO NOT TIGHTEN THIS BOLT WITH THE JdeMO CONTROL BOX NOT IN PROPER POSITION... YOU WILL BEND OR BREAK SOMETHING!

5) Route the high voltage cables up to the PEM (5 min)
Be sure to put the cables through the right rib, but don't yet mount the rib

6) Intall left and right ribs, left side support braces and cross braces (10 min)
DO NOT TORQUE THE BOLTS TO THEIR FINAL SETTING UNTIL EVERYTHING IS PROPERLY ASSEMBLED.

7) Install 6 remaining M6 screws to properly install JdeMO control box. It is critical that two additional M6 holes in the rib line up (5 min)

8) Install CHAdeMO (Yazaki) inlet mount assembly and use only finger tight on the 6 M6 bolts with flat washers, so that the assembly can be moved to fit rear defuser (1.5/2.0 cars) or rear facia (2.5 cars) - (5 min)

9) Install bracket for Adell clamps on rib, only used on rear facia 2.5 cars. A total of 4 M6 bolts, do not tighten (5 min)

10) Reattach wires for blower(s), TPMS, transmission control, etc (1 min)

11) Plug in low voltage external harness to JdeMO control box only (1 min)

12) Attach high voltage cables and interlock plug to PEM:
a. This is relatively easy on short PEM cars (10 min)
b. This could take an hour or two with long PEM cars, which requires very careful drilling, cutting, filing, etc. (60 - 120 min)

13) Fit rear diffuser / rear facia to CHAdeMO (Yazaki) inlet mount:
a. Rear diffuser cars - cutout screen to allow access to inlet, plus add spacer to drop down rear diffuser "wing" to be lowered ½ inch or 1 inch. (15 min)
b. For rear facia cars - cutout opening for inlet, add hinges, add Velcro latch - this is fabrication, and could take (60 min or more)

14) Reattach mid and rear underbody panels (5 min)

15) Uninhibit the high voltage, wake up car, check for faults. If no faults, turn off car, then plug-in low voltage harness in passenger footwell. Turn car on again and check for faults (5 min)

16) Test at nearby CHAdeMO station with car in Park and ON (varies)

2-4 hours for installation and fabrication, depending on car configuration and skill and speed of required fabrications.

 

[Roadster]

Yes, either the diffuser screen (1.5 / 2.0 cars) or the rear facia (2.5 cars) must have an opening cut to allow access to the charge port. If you don't want to cut the original, buy another from Tesla. That's why we picked the relatively low cost plastic / screen as the access point.

Good call! Does anyone have the PN for the 2.5 facia?

For rear facia cars - cutout opening for inlet, add hinges, add Velcro latch - this is fabrication

Would still love to see detailed photos of this; particularly the Velcro latch.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Yes, I have all the Tesla part numbers... I'll dig them up.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Here are the Tesla parts that may be appropriate for your JdeMO installation:

Tesla Part # - Nomenclature - Price USD

2001315 - CLIP PAB COVER $3.36
(This is the individual price for the four (4) clips that hold on the passenger air bag cover)


6005573 - PNL DIFFUSER BASE $506.12
(Roadster 2.5 plastic rear diffuser / facia, US spec. Europe spec has reflectors... I don't have that part number)


6003905 - ASY REAR DIFFUSER, CLEAR COAT $1,426.00
(Roadster 1.5 / 2.0 carbon fiber lower rear diffuser "wing"... you shouldn't need this)


6000070 - ASY CLOSER DIFFUSER $332.04
(Roadster 1.5 / 2.0 plastic lower rear diffuser "wing"... you shouldn't need this)


Sorry, no part number for the rear screen used on 1.5 / 2.0 cars. You can cut any screen material you like from a hardware store. Or, I'm sure Tesla will sell you an overpriced one.

 

[dpeilow]

Actually some of use are talking about scanning the diffuser and then manufacturing a new one with a location formed for the CHAdeMO inlet. One of the group works in that business and says in the neighborhood of 200 GBP for a quantity of 10.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Actually some of use are talking about scanning the diffuser and then manufacturing a new one with a location formed for the CHAdeMO inlet. One of the group works in that business and says in the neighborhood of 200 GBP for a quantity of 10.

Wow! That's quite an offer. I bought the 2.5 rear diffuser / facia (it's really not a diffuser on the 2.5), and I have to say that the quality is poor. Anybody could make something out of carbon or even lowly fiberglass with higher quality.

 

[TonyWilliams]

The couple with the first JdeMO equipped Roadster that is racing across Western Europe are encountering a number of issues that are important to know:

1) CAN'T LOCK DOORS WHILST CHARGING - They haven't mentioned it, but the doors can't be locked whilst charging. Hopefully, somebody will come up with a solution. There are several ideas to try. I like the idea of a switch in the boot to electrically lock the doors (just like the current door mounted switch does). Obviously, you must have a spare mechanical key to unlock the boot or driver's door.

2) DIFFICULTY WITH CHARGE STATIONS - The gray CHAdeMO plug with a black lever is the Yazaki (Japan) first generation plug. The trick to making them work is squeezing the lever with the plug fully inserted. To release, push the black button on top once and the plug will come out slightly, then push a second time and it will release. This plug will likely be phased out over time.

The ABB (Swiss) chargers use a Sumitomo (Japan) plug, which can either be a blue metal plug or a lighter blue plastic plug. Very easy to use. There are many more plugs to learn about, but the only truly difficult one is the early Yazaki design.

Here is a list of CHAdeMO compatible plugs:

Connectors – Chademo Association

Here is a list of CHAdeMO charge stations:

Chargers – Chademo Association

The network provider is yet another layer to identifying a problem at a station. When discussing a problem, it's helpful to know

a. Where the unit is (the Plugshare link is probably best)

b. what network handles payment (Blink, ChargePoint, EVgo, Fastned, etc)

c. what charger manufacturer (ABB, BTC Power, Nissan / Sumitomo, etc)

d. which plug (first generation Yazaki, Sumitomo, Japan Aviation, etc)


3) DASH PANEL RANGE PREDICTION - There is an issues regarding the orange dash panel readout for range. The DC charge confuses the unit, and it takes a LOOOOoooong time for it to get un-confused. The VDMS display should be fine, however.


4) REGEN - Regen is affected, also, until the car figures it out.

 

[Stefan T]

Actually some of use are talking about scanning the diffuser and then manufacturing a new one with a location formed for the CHAdeMO inlet. One of the group works in that business and says in the neighborhood of 200 GBP for a quantity of 10.

i'm intresed of one if you do them

 

[markwj]

1) CAN'T LOCK DOORS WHILST CHARGING - They haven't mentioned it, but the doors can't be locked whilst charging. Hopefully, somebody will come up with a solution. There are several ideas to try. I like the idea of a switch in the boot to electrically lock the doors (just like the current door mounted switch does). Obviously, you must have a spare mechanical key to unlock the boot or driver's door.

OVMS code for this is:

void vehicle_teslaroadster_tx_lockunlockcar(unsigned char mode, char *pin)
  {
  // Mode is 0=valet, 1=novalet, 2=lock, 3=unlock
  long lpin;
  lpin = atol(pin);

  if ((mode == 0x02)&&(car_doors1 & 0x80))
    return; // Refuse to lock a car that is turned on

It is pretty trivial to disable that protection, and I am happy to do it if JdeMO OVMS users have a need for it. The lock/unlock itself is trivial (just one CAN bus message).

P.S. Full code (in vehicle_teslaroadster_tx_lockunlockcar function) is here: Open-Vehicle-Monitoring-System/vehicle_teslaroadster.c at master · openvehicles/Open-Vehicle-Monitoring-System · GitHub

 

[TonyWilliams]

OVMS code for this is:

void vehicle_teslaroadster_tx_lockunlockcar(unsigned char mode, char *pin)

Awesome!!! We build a spare plug into our harness so that OVMS and JdeMO can both be plugged into the CAN port.

I recommend getting a spare mechanical key for the Roadster and hiding it somewhere on the car for the inevitable person who will successfully lock the doors and somehow have a dead phone when they need it unlocked.

There are lots of great spots to hide the key. Behind a license plate is a good one. Some clever hidden way in the charge port (does the door lock when the car is locked?).

I think I would hide the key in the boot, and add an external method to open the boot / trunk. Some type of hidden switch or mechanical release of the boot lid should work.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Oh, I forgot to mention this... the Roadster 2.0 / 2.5 kit will not have a "drive away" inhibit. In the future, we will redesign the PEM junction box to accommodate the necessary vehicle disable that is fully functional on the Roadster 1.5.

We couldn't fix this problem with software, and the hardware will not be ready this year.

 

[dpeilow]

It is pretty trivial to disable that protection, and I am happy to do it if JdeMO OVMS users have a need for it. The lock/unlock itself is trivial (just one CAN bus message).

I definitely will be requesting this please. My coding ability is just about "10 Print "Hello", 20 Goto 10" so would appreciate if you can do that.

 

[n2mb_racing]

I definitely will be requesting this please. My coding ability is just about "10 Print "Hello", 20 Goto 10" so would appreciate if you can do that.

I think the OVMS already has it. You can lock and unlock from the app.

 

[TonyWilliams]

I think the OVMS already has it. You can lock and unlock from the app.

In the current programming, the OVMS will inhibit locking the car when the Roadster is on. The car is required to be on while using JdeMO.

I suspect that a line of code should be removed related to inhibiting the door lock, and a line of code added to say, "are you sure? Check to make sure that you have a spare mechanical key to unlock the car in the event of a mobile phone connection error."

teslaroadster_tx_lockunlockcar

if car ON and doors closed... Refuse to lock a car that is turned on

 

[dpeilow]

I think the OVMS already has it. You can lock and unlock from the app.

Please take a look at the post above mine - OVMS has it but there is an interlock to stop you locking the car with it on. For JdeMO users that feature is a necessity not a nuisance, hence asking for the code to be changed.

 

[markwj]

We can implement this with a:

FEATURE_ROADSTERBITS             0x0A
  FEATURE_ROADSTERBITS_LOCKWHILEON     0x01

If that feature #10 is set to 1, we can disable the interlock preventing locking the car while it is on.

That is relatively simple to do, and I'm happy to do it. But, I'll need a roadster owner with OVMS, JdeMO, and the ability to program firmware (PICKIT) to test and ensure it works as expected.

Volunteers apply here.

 

[AEdennis]

We can implement this with a:

FEATURE_ROADSTERBITS             0x0A
  FEATURE_ROADSTERBITS_LOCKWHILEON     0x01

If that feature #10 is set to 1, we can disable the interlock preventing locking the car while it is on.

That is relatively simple to do, and I'm happy to do it. But, I'll need a roadster owner with OVMS, JdeMO, and the ability to program firmware (PICKIT) to test and ensure it works as expected.

Volunteers apply here.

I have the OVMS, PICKIT and relatively close @TonyWilliams or @samcarney

If you guys want to test nearby.

 

[TonyWilliams]

I have the OVMS, PICKIT and relatively close @TonyWilliams or @samcarney

If you guys want to test nearby.

Mark, can we have a discriminator that the hand / parking brake must be applied? And / or the vehicle must be in Park? These are the discriminators we use for JdeMO to prevent driving off with the car.

Sam has already gone east for the summer (with a second JdeMO to install on his eastern Roadster).

We can attach the JdeMO hardware to your car (it just needs the CAN port for this test).

 

[dpeilow]

I don't yet have the JdeMO but have the rest and can test the code here. When Alex gets his shortly I can potentially try it on his car.