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Juicebox not charging new Model Y
- Thread starter brentwpeterson
- Start date
Try resetting the circuit breaker on the Juicebox EVSE (while not plugged into the Tesla Model Y.) Turn off the circuit breaker for the charging circuit, wait 10 seconds before turning on the circuit breaker.
I have observed public Chargepoint Charging stations (SemaConnect Network) that will charge other EVs but would not charge my Tesla Model Y. The fix was to have the Chargepoint station reset, either remotely or by cycling the circuit breaker off and back on. The newer SemaConnect charging stations seem to be more dependable as far as charging my Tesla Model Y.
I have observed public Chargepoint Charging stations (SemaConnect Network) that will charge other EVs but would not charge my Tesla Model Y. The fix was to have the Chargepoint station reset, either remotely or by cycling the circuit breaker off and back on. The newer SemaConnect charging stations seem to be more dependable as far as charging my Tesla Model Y.
try setting the power in charge rate in the car the same as the charger ie: 40 amp. might be trying to pull more power than it sees available triggering a fault?
kingkong5
Member
I get errors when I plug in at the generic charger at work. If after getting the error I let it sit about 15 minutes or so, it will begin to charge. I figured the Tesla needs a while to talk to the charger about what's up. Sometimes if waiting doesn't fix it, I re-seat the J1772 adapter and that often fixes it. Good luck!
Bikeman
Member
I use a 2017 version of the JuiceBox 40, which is the non-wi-fi version, to currently charge my PHEV. I am really hoping that it can handle the Y I have on order, so I'll be watching this thread. I've read a ton of articles on JuiceBox and Tesla. Jury is still out. I guess you can limit the amperage in the car to 32A (or you used to be able to do that), which should throttle the charging down to about 30 miles per hour. In another thread I learned that there is an internal setting in the JB40 that also limits the output to lower amperages max. This means unplugging the unit and disassembling it and finding the potentiometer and manually dialing it down in steps until it works reliably. I'm not real comfortable about that second choice. I guess I'll find out when I get my car if the JB40 works or not.
You shouldn't have to do that. The Tesla Model Y can charge at up to 240 Volts and 48 amps. The charging station equipment, i.e. Juicebox 40 will communicate with the Tesla vehicle at the start of the charging session, including the maximum charging amperage that the Juicebox will supply. The Tesla vehicle will not attempt to draw more than the Juicebox setup can supply.
Bikeman
Member
In my case, the JB40, which is capable of 40A output at 240v, is on a 40A breaker, so I shouldn't allow it to put out as much as it can do, since that would result in breakers tripping or worse. So 32A would be the logical limit.
The JB40 should have been setup per the manufacturer's installation instructions. Set properly for use on a 40a circuit the JB40 should automatically set the maximum charging amperage to 32A. If the JB40 was earlier setup for a 50A circuit when actually installed on a 40A circuit the JB40 was improperly set.
boingolover
Late 2021 Blue on White MYLR 5 w/ tow
Yeah, some of these are sounding like the JuiceBox was not configured correctly, like it was set for a higher amp circuit than it was actually on. But with a previous car, like the i3, that car had a smaller onboard charger and so was only pulling a smaller amount of amps that was fine for that circuit level. So effectively the JB40 was announcing more amps than it was really capable of, but then the car was requesting less anyway. Basically it wasn't revealing the problem.
But then when you get a different car that is capable of pulling more amps, it requests that, which then does overdraw the circuit, and now it shows that there was really a problem with the configuration.
But then when you get a different car that is capable of pulling more amps, it requests that, which then does overdraw the circuit, and now it shows that there was really a problem with the configuration.
Bikeman
Member
When I bought the JB40 in 2017, there was no configuration possible. It never came up. There was no option on the order page. In conversation with the company, there wasn't even a question about limiting output. I bought it on the site and they sent it. Since it isn't a wi-fi model, I also can't set it to a lower amperage. Using it with my Prius Prime, which has a low-power onboard charger, it can only output 16A at 240v., so it can't overpower.
The only way it might be configuable, is to open up the case and set something inside.
The only way it might be configuable, is to open up the case and set something inside.
boingolover
Late 2021 Blue on White MYLR 5 w/ tow
Several things here:
You can absolutely set the charge limit with a non-wifi juicebox:
There is a trim pot inside.
Second, the charging speed negotiated by your Prius Prime has nothing to do with what a Y will do. The onboard charger on a Y can pull up to 48 amps, limited by what the EVSE informs the onboard charger is available, and upstream of that what the actual circuit is capable of providing.
Well one car doesn't affect the other CAR of course, but it is relevant to what they are requesting from the Juicebox, as I explained above. The Prius probably wasn't requesting enough current to show a problem, but the Y will try to draw more, which may be more than what the Juicebox or its circuit is properly set up to provide. So the change in vehicles can reveal a problem.
boingolover
Late 2021 Blue on White MYLR 5 w/ tow
I think we're basically saying the same thing, either way I'm agreeing with you. It's possible the Y is revealing a problem that's been there all along, but the built-in bmw charger wasn't thirsty enough to stress the circuit. At any rate, I suspect we'll never determine if the OP got this figured out, I think they've ghosted us
Bikeman
Member
OK, now THAT link was very useful to me, and probably others with the JB40 on a 40A or less circuit. Thank you! Time for some surgery.
EDIT: I guess my other option would be to up the breakers (and the wiring) to 50A. I'm pretty sure I'd get some serious s**t from an electrician for assigning 50% of the house's capacity to EV charging.
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Bikeman
Member
Did the surgery today. JB40, non-networked, 2017, just prior to U.L. approval. I have 40A service connected to it. Opened her up, which was easy, BTW. That little blue pot is much much smaller than I had thought. None of the 6 phillips screwdrivers fit into it, so I ended up using a very small spade-end screwdriver. There are no detents, which I also assumed, so setting it to +-5A increments is impossible. Perhaps the firmware inside figures it out once reset? The range of motion on the pot seemed to be 270-300 degrees. I wanted to limit it to 30-32A, so I set it to 3/4 of the rotation to the right. I hope that does it. The car comes in late December to January, and I certainly don't want to take the thing apart again outside in a mid-Chicago winter. I guess I'll find out if this limits the delivery rate the way I think or hope it does.
The pic on the resource page linked above is different from what I saw inside. The pot looked similar. Just the board layout was not what is shown.
I have a call into tech support to see if they could add anything to this story for you all, and for the different 2019 and prior JuiceBox owners. They haven't called back.
The pic on the resource page linked above is different from what I saw inside. The pot looked similar. Just the board layout was not what is shown.
I have a call into tech support to see if they could add anything to this story for you all, and for the different 2019 and prior JuiceBox owners. They haven't called back.
