Have a Tesla Universal Charger and notice on my Tesla app it is only getting 10kw on the charge have a 60 amp breaker sometimes it hits 11kw then goes back is the based on the load on my panel where I running my central air ? Is there an issue where it should be at 11 for most of the charge attached is screenshot
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Level Home Charger - 10kw 229v
- Thread starter Murph21
- Start date
It’s being rounded up or down based on your voltage. Power = v*i
229v*48A= 10992W. 230v*48A =11040W
240 +/- 5% would be considered acceptable in most of the US.
To get full power it should be 240V but there is always voltage sag unless you used much bigger cable than normal. 229 is a bit on the low side. I see 233-234 when I charge.
that’s a good question for your utility, but they won’t care too much as long as it’s staying within spec (which 229v would be).
So check to see what your starting voltage is when you start a charge. It’ll tell you the starting voltage since it takes about 10 seconds to ramp the amps all the way the 48A. My starting amps is usually around 240v which is the perfect nominal voltage which means I usually see about 7-8 volts of sag.
The phone app reports the voltage applied to the car constantly.
What arrives at the wall outlet depends how much of which quality cable is between it and the panel. The longer the run the thicker the cable required to avoid the sag.
The more marginal the lead in cable for its length, the hotter it will get, and that compounds the sag.
There is no reason for the wall outlet to clamp down if everything is set up properly.
What arrives at the wall outlet depends how much of which quality cable is between it and the panel. The longer the run the thicker the cable required to avoid the sag.
The more marginal the lead in cable for its length, the hotter it will get, and that compounds the sag.
There is no reason for the wall outlet to clamp down if everything is set up properly.
And the higher the amps, the harder it's pulling on that line, and the bigger the voltage sag will be. If you're only running 10A, it might only drop by about a volt or two, but running 48A, it likely does go down by five or six. And like people were saying, having a starting point in the 230's isn't unusual in a lot of houses.
Either your circuit is on a lower voltage tap at the substation, or there's lots of load on the circuit (either in your house or the neighbor's). As @Cosmacelf mentioned, you need to see what the voltage is before and after the charge current ramp up for the full picture.
But you're with 5% of 240V, so within spec. The utility probably won't do anything, especially if this is the reading under load. I run 248-249V without load. A little hot, but also within spec (3%).
The cause of the voltage drop can even be outside the house. I get a 5-6V drop charging at 24A@240V, but it's somewhere at the street. I get the same readings at the outlet and at the main panel, both before and after my service upgrade (100A -> 200A), which replaced everything after the from the pole onward.
Sometimes my starting voltage is 245v and other times 235V. Depends on power draw in the neighborhood and rest of my home. Don't sweat 229v, really. And don't worry about 10kw vs 11kw. Lots of people in neighborhood running A/C, pool pumps, Jacuzzi's and they all pull on the power grid.
Similar threads
