Lighted Tesla T for nosecone

[4SUPER9]

It could have been the posi-tap too. I've heard that sometimes it doesn't puncture exactly the way we want.

 

[artsci]

It could have been the posi-tap too. I've heard that sometimes it doesn't puncture exactly the way we want.

After delivery of the latest production batch we have inventory for immediate shipment.

 

[dsmith2189]

Success! I have installed the T to both DRL's and the headlights. Now, they are on most of the time, including when I exit the car so that I get some personal enjoyment, and fully automated so that I have no need to do anything.

First, I picked up a package of Diodes from Amazon here.
I then soldered some small strips of wire to each end of the diode as in this pic (make two of these, and don't make fun of my soldering please):

I then took these two setups, and crimp connected them together on the power side (end of the diode with the silver strip). Next, I sealed the diode/soldered sections with shrink tubing. I placed crimp connectors on the other(power receiving) ends. My crimps don't match together well, as I ran out of one type and had to switch. Using the Posi-locks, I have one wire going from the DRL lead, and one from the headlight lead. If I decide I only want one or the either in the future, I simply unplug the one I don't want:

That is what I was waiting for.:smile:
here are some images (hopefully correct:redface that show the two options I was considering.
One that comes on with the car using switched power from Fuse #75 (Power Steering) (fuse optional?) and the other with either the DRL or Headlight.
I am going to connect my Oznium controller to constant power Fuse #47 (Glove-box Light) so it will retain it's memory setting.

 

[artsci]

Thanks to fireLT, who shot the video, and cgiGuy, who edited it, we now have an installation video. This is for the Ozniun controller but the steps are basically the same for power from the headlights or DRL's expect for the 12 and ground connections to the T and arch. These are in the online instructions, link in my signature.

 

[efusco]

Thanks to fireLT, who shot the video, and cgiGuy, who edited it, we now have an installation video. This is for the Ozniun controller but the steps are basically the same for power from the headlights or DRL's expect for the 12 and ground connections to the T and arch. These are in the online instructions, link in my signature.

Thanks for getting that put up! Hopefully I will be able to find time to get this done as I'm sure the video will improve my confidence.
I had to fix the link to get to it: Lighted T Install on Vimeo

 

[xhawk101]

Got mine installed finally. Couldn't get orange wire w black stripe to work so switched to red w white stripe. Works with running lights which was my intention. Took a few more hours than it should have but happy with results.

 

[artsci]

Here's a link to a short video on production of the lighted T. It's not the Tesla factory but it's a high technology project with a bit of hand work.

 

[GasDoc]

I have installed the lighted T with remote control and today hooked up an automotive relay so my T comes on when headlights or DRL's are on.

I have the cockpit LED indicator wired out of the the second set of lead from the controller, so it's always flashing (car parked, controller is powered, but T is off).

I should be able to wire the LED indicator out of the automotive relay so it will truly mirror the state of the lighted T, right?

 

[cgiGuy]

I should be able to wire the LED indicator out of the automotive relay so it will truly mirror the state of the lighted T, right?

Yes, in fact the original written instructions mention: "A LED is wired in parallel with the output of the Ozium controller, a resistor is added to the circuit..." Which means you should be able to wire in parallel right from your switch.

Would you mind sharing part # of the switch you used? And source? I think a lot of us are interested in having the Oznium controller and the "wired to the headlights/DRLs" solution to retain the state it was in.

Thanks!

 

[GasDoc]

Yes, in fact the original written instructions mention: "A LED is wired in parallel with the output of the Ozium controller, a resistor is added to the circuit..." Which means you should be able to wire in parallel right from your switch.

Would you mind sharing part # of the switch you used? And source? I think a lot of us are interested in having the Oznium controller and the "wired to the headlights/DRLs" solution to retain the state it was in.

It was a generic "4 Pin 30AMP 12 Volt Relay" from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Cost me $6.99

Per the receipt, it is a CTI 84601. I found it in the aisle near the fuses. It's a small black cube with 4 leads which are labelled to match the diagrams a few posts prior in this thread.

I think this part from Amazon will work as well, it's only $3.35 including shipping and is supposed to be waterproof.

I've wired it up to be activated by Headlights/DRL's and passed the output of the ozmium controller through it to simultaneously power the Tesla T and the cockpit LED indicator.

Works like a charm.

 

[RLA12194]

Anyone know if the waterproof Oznium controller is available yet?

 

[artsci]

Anyone know if the waterproof Oznium controller is available yet?

They've sent me the waterproof version to try out but it's not yet available on their web site. I'll post photos and info once I get it.

At the same time they have a new remote that seems to have replaced the previous version.

The second production run of the lighted T is almost sold out, so we'll begin another run soon.

 

[pgiralt]

artsci, I noticed something in your installation video that you might want to caution folks on. In the video, you show installing the tap a fuse and installing the fuse, then later stripping the other end of the wire and terminating it. I can see folks inadvertently shorting that end out to a ground and blowing the fuse accidentally. I'd recommend folks finish the install, then put the fuse in at the end just to be on the safe side. Worst-case you just blow a fuse and have to replace it, so no big deal, but still might cause some frustration if someone tries to start it up and it doesn't work because they accidentally blew the fuse and didn't notice.

 

[artsci]

artsci, I noticed something in your installation video that you might want to caution folks on. In the video, you show installing the tap a fuse and installing the fuse, then later stripping the other end of the wire and terminating it. I can see folks inadvertently shorting that end out to a ground and blowing the fuse accidentally. I'd recommend folks finish the install, then put the fuse in at the end just to be on the safe side. Worst-case you just blow a fuse and have to replace it, so no big deal, but still might cause some frustration if someone tries to start it up and it doesn't work because they accidentally blew the fuse and didn't notice.

Thanks! I'll change the install instructions. As you pointed out, blowing the fuse is no big deal but we don't won't people to be surprised when the T won't light when everything is connected

 

[drtko147]

Success! I have installed the T to both DRL's and the headlights. Now, they are on most of the time, including when I exit the car so that I get some personal enjoyment, and fully automated so that I have no need to do anything.

First, I picked up a package of Diodes from Amazon here.
I then soldered some small strips of wire to each end of the diode as in this pic (make two of these, and don't make fun of my soldering please):
View attachment 45566


I then took these two setups, and crimp connected them together on the power side (end of the diode with the silver strip). Next, I sealed the diode/soldered sections with shrink tubing. I placed crimp connectors on the other(power receiving) ends. My crimps don't match together well, as I ran out of one type and had to switch. Using the Posi-locks, I have one wire going from the DRL lead, and one from the headlight lead. If I decide I only want one or the either in the future, I simply unplug the one I don't want:
View attachment 45567

Sorry to bother you on this but I thought that on the diode the side with the silver strip is the side the power flows from. From what you are saying here, it is the opposite way. The two leads coming off should be on the opposite end of the diode (the side without the silver strip). Is this correct:

 

[Klaus]

The ring indicates the cathode end of the diode. Current flows through the diode if the anode side is (+) and cathode is (-). Reverse polarity blocks the current. So for the LED application isolating multiple potential feeds, the anode side needs to be connected to the feeding wire, i.e. each lighting wire, and the cathodes of all diodes need to be connected together and feed the LED T (+) 12V lead.

 

[yobigd20]

The ring indicates the cathode end of the diode. Current flows through the diode if the anode side is (+) and cathode is (-). Reverse polarity blocks the current. So for the LED application isolating multiple potential feeds, the anode side needs to be connected to the feeding wire, i.e. each lighting wire, and the cathodes of all diodes need to be connected together and feed the LED T (+) 12V lead.

So to answer his question, yes he wired it right, correct?

 

[drtko147]

The ring indicates the cathode end of the diode. Current flows through the diode if the anode side is (+) and cathode is (-). Reverse polarity blocks the current. So for the LED application isolating multiple potential feeds, the anode side needs to be connected to the feeding wire, i.e. each lighting wire, and the cathodes of all diodes need to be connected together and feed the LED T (+) 12V lead.

Thank you. The silver band on the diode shows the positive sign, indicating the anode.

 

[Klaus]

This is the standard: Fileiode pinout en fr.svg - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

(Sorry, the URL edit widget keeps messing this up, inserting a biggrin smiley whenever I try to imbed it correctly)

Maybe someone who is still doing EE can explain the weird designation in the picture above?

 

[drtko147]

Success! I was able to use the two diodes to hook up the lighted T to both the DRL and the headlights. Looks great.