This is weird. The solution is to wire both the lighted T and the interior LED on the same outputs of the remote.
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This is weird. The solution is to wire both the lighted T and the interior LED on the same outputs of the remote.
FLDarren
Member
This is the reason. I received 2 remotes with my controller. It's a new addition to the controller. Check out number 4 on the features.12V Remote Control LED Dimmer Switch & Strobe Controller - Plug & Play I'll play more with the remotes later to see exactly which buttons make the wig wag effect. I didn't have a lot of time to see exactly what mode the LED's were in because I was looking at the T's reflection in the back of an ICE at a traffic light. Still an awesome product artsci. I love it. Now that I've seen it lit at night I really can't wait for the rear T. Maybe it'll burn the T symbol into the memory of every person who sees it. :wink:
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Glad they're shipping two remotes now. I complained about that to Oznium, as the earlier version shipped with 2. Sounds like they listened.
This is what Oznium indicates for the remote buttons:
Upper left button (A): Cycle through 7 different brightness levels (press and hold the button to cycle to the next brightness level)
Upper right button (B): Turn on Strobe / Flash mode
Lower left button (C): Automatically cycles from dim to bright to dim to bright (like a heartbeat)
Lower right button (D): On / Off
FLDarren
Member
I have it figured out now. It just threw me off because I didn't know about the wig wag effect. I'm going to just clip the second pair of output wires from the controller and wire the T and interior LED through the first pair of output wires. It is a cool effect to be able to wig wag the two leads, just not in this case where you want the two lights to be identical.
Button A can make the T stay on while the interior is off and vis versa. It can also make the T strobe while interior is solid and vis versa. When you press and hold A, both lights cycle thru brightness levels.
Button B can make both lights strobe. It can make one light strobe while other is off. It can make one strobe while the other pulses.
Button C can make both lights pulse. It can make one pulse while other strobes. This is where I thought I had a problem.
Very confusing at first.
Button A can make the T stay on while the interior is off and vis versa. It can also make the T strobe while interior is solid and vis versa. When you press and hold A, both lights cycle thru brightness levels.
Button B can make both lights strobe. It can make one light strobe while other is off. It can make one strobe while the other pulses.
Button C can make both lights pulse. It can make one pulse while other strobes. This is where I thought I had a problem.
Very confusing at first.
I didn't know about those capabilities and understand how it can be very confusing.
I finally finished the wiring for the lighted T yesterday, after having been out of commission for such work for about six months ... Just a few points:
My original problem was that the Posi-tap connectors didn't make decent contact, despite having been lauded as the best way to splice automobile wiring. Inspecting the connections in bright daylight showed that the headlight wires had been displaced sideways instead of penetrated. Yesterday, re-doing the connections was simple, and I suspect that the temperature had something to do with it, yesterday it was upper 80s here, and my earlier attempt in January was in mid 50s weather, which made the insulation stiff and hard to penetrate - just my best guess.
After the discussion with the DRL turning off with the headlights on I had installed diodes to feed the T from the headlights and DRL, respectively. Because of the dimming of the left DRL with the left turn signal on I had planned on feeding with diodes from the left and right DRL. When I tested that last evening before finishing the connection I found that the T does not noticeably dim with the turn signal on, so I ended up skipping the right DRL diode circuit.
Seems to work great now, just in time for TMC Connect
Thanks for the great additions to our beautiful cars, artsci!
Just ordered the rear red T ...
My original problem was that the Posi-tap connectors didn't make decent contact, despite having been lauded as the best way to splice automobile wiring. Inspecting the connections in bright daylight showed that the headlight wires had been displaced sideways instead of penetrated. Yesterday, re-doing the connections was simple, and I suspect that the temperature had something to do with it, yesterday it was upper 80s here, and my earlier attempt in January was in mid 50s weather, which made the insulation stiff and hard to penetrate - just my best guess.
After the discussion with the DRL turning off with the headlights on I had installed diodes to feed the T from the headlights and DRL, respectively. Because of the dimming of the left DRL with the left turn signal on I had planned on feeding with diodes from the left and right DRL. When I tested that last evening before finishing the connection I found that the T does not noticeably dim with the turn signal on, so I ended up skipping the right DRL diode circuit.
Seems to work great now, just in time for TMC Connect
Thanks for the great additions to our beautiful cars, artsci!
Just ordered the rear red T ...
Barryfins
Model S Owner
Lighted T installation issue with new wiring harness colors
I'm having an issue installing the lighted T to my passenger side headlight hope some one can help me? The wiring harness shown in the instructions has a red wire with a white stripe that's the one I'm supposed to use but my 3 month old Models S dose not have that color wire and I don't know witch one to select. I've tried a multimeter and cants seam to find the correct one ( yes I'm dumb) just checking to see if anyone on this site has found the same issue and figured it out?
Or dose anyone know the slot number they all look to have numbers.
Here are the pictures of the current wiring harness.
I'm having an issue installing the lighted T to my passenger side headlight hope some one can help me? The wiring harness shown in the instructions has a red wire with a white stripe that's the one I'm supposed to use but my 3 month old Models S dose not have that color wire and I don't know witch one to select. I've tried a multimeter and cants seam to find the correct one ( yes I'm dumb) just checking to see if anyone on this site has found the same issue and figured it out?
Or dose anyone know the slot number they all look to have numbers.
Here are the pictures of the current wiring harness.
Attachments
I compared your photo to the one of my headlamp wiring.
I think you want the blue with white stripe. Please let us know if that one works.
Barryfins
Model S Owner
I will be picking up my car this weekend and will be having it wrapped with Xpel right after delivery. I will also be installing the lighted "T"s front and rear, the front camera and a few other accessories at the shop where it is getting wrapped.
I am trying to figure out the order to put on the lighted "T"s and the Xpel. My apologies if this has been addressed elsewhere.
1. Do you put on the XPEL first as one piece and then attach the "T"s to the Xpel - so when you replace the Xpel you need to replace/remove the "T"s?
2. Do you cut out a place for the "T"s in the Xpel with a slight overlap so the "T"s cover the edges of the Xpel?
3. Other?
Will update this thread if the RHD versions have a different set of wires and different locations than LHD cars.
I am trying to figure out the order to put on the lighted "T"s and the Xpel. My apologies if this has been addressed elsewhere.
1. Do you put on the XPEL first as one piece and then attach the "T"s to the Xpel - so when you replace the Xpel you need to replace/remove the "T"s?
2. Do you cut out a place for the "T"s in the Xpel with a slight overlap so the "T"s cover the edges of the Xpel?
3. Other?
Will update this thread if the RHD versions have a different set of wires and different locations than LHD cars.
The colors changed at some point.
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We discussed this via PM but to make it public I would install the T's over the Expel.
Currently stuck on power connections and looking for some fuse box descriptions.
I am using the Oznium controller with a relay for the installation. On LHD cars what is the description of Fuse 75 on the manual? On my RHD car fuse 75 is not used. Fuse 76 description is ABS and power steering logic. Is that the same description as Fuse 75 on LHD cars?
For the relay power I was going to connect to the glovebox fuse. However, I cannot find a fuse with that description. Can someone please share the description for the glovebox fuse in your LHD car.
Thank you.
I am using the Oznium controller with a relay for the installation. On LHD cars what is the description of Fuse 75 on the manual? On my RHD car fuse 75 is not used. Fuse 76 description is ABS and power steering logic. Is that the same description as Fuse 75 on LHD cars?
For the relay power I was going to connect to the glovebox fuse. However, I cannot find a fuse with that description. Can someone please share the description for the glovebox fuse in your LHD car.
Thank you.
To revive an old but favorite thread: I just installed another Ligthted-T in my MS that I picked up two days ago (so, build 2/2016). Evannex only gives instructions for always on (using a remote), but I wanted it the same install as last time, that is, running on both DRLs and Headlights and automated. I ran posi-taps to both connections using diodes as I did in a prior post.
The color scheme in the harness changed again:
To keep things more accurate, I suggest we not go by color, but by wire position in the connecting harness:
The color scheme in the harness changed again:
- Headlights were changed to Blue with Red stripe (as mentioned above)
- DRLs are now solid Light Brown (NOT orange and green).
To keep things more accurate, I suggest we not go by color, but by wire position in the connecting harness:
- Headlights are in position 5
- DRLs are in position 9
(assuming the top positions above them are numbers 4 and 8 respectively, and the number of the positions underneath follow in succession)
mbhforum
Active Member
Reviving an old thread. Would like to get the front and rear T's for my car. Does anyone know of any installers that have done these in New York/Long Island area?
Also, the instructions on Evannex's site only show how to install the front T's with a remote. I'd prefer to have them tied to my DRL/Headlights and I see there are many posts on how to do this. However, is there any official documentation to do it via this method?
Also, the instructions on Evannex's site only show how to install the front T's with a remote. I'd prefer to have them tied to my DRL/Headlights and I see there are many posts on how to do this. However, is there any official documentation to do it via this method?
As the developer of the front I highly recommend that you use it with the remote, as it gives you total control over when and how it is lit.
If you want to use it with the DRL/Headlights you tap the12v lead to the headlights for the power source (attach it the the 12v lead (red) on the T. Any installer with half a brain will know how to do this.
I posted somewhere above in this thread how to do what you ask. It is an incredibly simple install that I have done 3 times now, once for each of mine, and once for a friend. The total install time is under 30 minutes, with the majority of that time spent on removing the old adhesive on the T. You will need a couple of diodes to tap into both the DRL and headlights. Also, the color of the wires changed at one point, also listed somewhere above. As far as the remote goes, I installed it, then threw it in the back footwell somewhere and have not touched it since. I see no need for it, and you can skip it if you want.
Check out Tesla-lights.net. You’ll find them there. I’m also working on a refresh version that will be front surface lit and much less expensive but it will be months before they’re ready.
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