Huh? The only reason you'd end up with preload on swaybar endlinks is if you lowered the car more on one side than the other...
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Lowering the Model 3
- Thread starter Cricket88
- Start date
Preload can be in either direction so if the car is lower or higher than stock with stock endlinks you're going to end up with the bars having a force applied to them at rest.
Sway-bars only resist twisting motion where one wheel is at a different ride height, changes in ride height do not preload the sway-bars and change your effective spring rate. There is no need to change your endlink lengths when you change your ride height.
Refreshed M3P on H&R (Part no. 28659-1) 1.2 inches lower front and rear. Looks okay, but would look more completed with a nice spacer add-on.
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What kind of range you getting with the spacers? Say a 90% charge? How many miles does it show?
Like it , and I agree. Been looking for pics of spacers with the uberturbines this am lol
Looks good. Spacers are needed and there are not any great options for the M3P. 5/20 are about the best you can do. If anyone has any better ideas let me know. Even 10 or 15 up front would be great.
What spring and spacer combo would give my 2021 lrm3 with 19” sport rims a nice stance?
I'm leaning UP moderates, but the shots of model 3s with the factory 19” sport rims I’ve seen look like they could use a spacer to flush things out and give it a proper stance. I’m sure someone’s dialed this in by now.
I'm leaning UP moderates, but the shots of model 3s with the factory 19” sport rims I’ve seen look like they could use a spacer to flush things out and give it a proper stance. I’m sure someone’s dialed this in by now.
fritzner
Member
I installed the springs and spacers at the same time and removed the aero covers. Springs are said to increase efficiency since there is less air going under the car and the other 2 will decrease efficiency.
The number of miles shown is highly dependent on recent driving style and weather, so I never look at it.
I also have an SR (not +) so my numbers aren't going to matter much for most people.
Wow, surprised they put 235/35/20 on those stock wheels. Going with 245/35/20, I know, like 1% and .3" difference in diameter, such extra little sidewall...but still. Guess you have to be careful with any 20 on these cars unless you are running 255 + which isn't recommended.
With that said, was thinking of putting some Riaction coilovers on. Typical Asian branded setup, but the spring rates are around 10k F/ 8k R or 560lbs and 448lbs respectively. Which I don't think is that much more than stock, plus 32 clicks of adjustability, steel monotube shock...for the money with a discount, like $950 delivered. Plus infinite adjustment to get the ride height just right.
Looks good though. How is the ride in general? Noise? Thanks
With that said, was thinking of putting some Riaction coilovers on. Typical Asian branded setup, but the spring rates are around 10k F/ 8k R or 560lbs and 448lbs respectively. Which I don't think is that much more than stock, plus 32 clicks of adjustability, steel monotube shock...for the money with a discount, like $950 delivered. Plus infinite adjustment to get the ride height just right.
Looks good though. How is the ride in general? Noise? Thanks
Lowered on MPP Comfort Coilovers (non-adjustable) for a few weeks now. Well worth the investment. It's like a new car in the way it looks and feels, stoked with how it turned out.
The front and rear wheel gap difference was so significant on my RWD SR+, that I had it lowered 1.4" and .78", respectively, to get the mild drop look I wanted. I also added 15/20mm Bonoss wheel spacers for a more flush look.
Attached is a before and after photo. That front wheel fender gap was an eyesore!
The front and rear wheel gap difference was so significant on my RWD SR+, that I had it lowered 1.4" and .78", respectively, to get the mild drop look I wanted. I also added 15/20mm Bonoss wheel spacers for a more flush look.
Attached is a before and after photo. That front wheel fender gap was an eyesore!
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Damn I have a Mid Range with the same aero covers. Going to be ordering the same springs and spacers.so you went 1.4" in the front and .78" on the rear? Also how much has your efficiency increased? Car looks great btw! Can't wait for my springs and spacers!
Thanks! I guess there are better ways to measure, but I initially measured ground to fender (vs hub to fender or edge of wheel to fender) and got ~28.5" front, ~28" rear.
I switched to millimeters for more accuracy so officially 725mm and 710mm, and targeted an equal ground-to-fender height of 690mm for each. This meant lower front by 35mm (or 1.37") and rear by 20mm (or .78")
Only been 2 weeks, and haven't seen a drastic change in range, so at least it hasn't gone down for now. MPP also mentioned the rear will settle a little lower over time (RWD), so account for that with the techs.
Good luck with your install!
The springs aren't matched to the valving of the stock dampers, resulting in harshness and occasional bounciness over bumps at speed. Coilovers are the way to do it properly. I've had 3 sets of UP springs and one set of Eibachs, and I'm currently on MPP comfort adjustable coilovers and don't regret the purchase one bit—although I'm sure UP has amazing coilover options as well.
MarcG
Active Member
The UP coilovers I have are great, only downside compared to MPP's is that the rear ride height is not as easily adjustable. But once I got it to where I like it, I never really had the need to change it. Of course, one can't beat air suspension with adjustable height and damping from the screen
So decided to go with coilovers. I know most provide some kind of instructions. But is there any catches with coilovers that I haven't read, things needing reusing? Guess instructions should cover this...but just want to make sure not missing anything or relay to the installer that might not be familiar with them. Thx
Not sure about any others, but the MPP coilovers reuse the OEM strut top hats, so they’ll need to compress the OEM spring to get that part off. The rears also use OEM spring isolators. Should be pretty standard stuff though.
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