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You need to find a competent shop with experience of EVs. The actual fitting of the LSD is fairly simple for an experienced mechanic but you have to disconnect the HV to remove the drive unit so you don't want someone who's never seen a car powered by electrickery to do it.So for Canadians, MPP are the only ones who know how to install this? It would be something I am interested in but just popping over to Ontario is a bit of a drive from BC
I have to stress out that mechanic should be really experienced with differentials upgrades and EV. Experienced mechanic who only did suspension and plugs not going to do it right.You need to find a competent shop with experience of EVs. The actual fitting of the LSD is fairly simple for an experienced mechanic but you have to disconnect the HV to remove the drive unit so you don't want someone who's never seen a car powered by electrickery to do it.
That's basically what I said. I doubt a mechanic who only does oil and filter changes all day would even consider it.I have to stress out that mechanic should be really experienced with differentials upgrades and EV. Experienced mechanic who only did suspension and plugs not going to do it right.
There are brave mechanics and convincing customers in the wild.That's basically what I said. I doubt a mechanic who only does oil and filter changes all day would even consider it.
I have first hand experience driving RWD cars with LSD's in the snow and having to go up hills partially sideways, always modulating the throttle to balance progress up the hill vs. rotating the ass end out too far. It's actually quite fun if you aren't worried about wrecking.Quaife requires only 30 units purchase to make ATB for the new application. I would assume, being one of the leading LSD manufacturers in the world, they are not stupid and aware of what's necessary to do to fit in specific application demands.
Helical LSD acts the same as open diff if one wheel has no traction - it will spin it fast and won't spin another one.
Here is where traction control of the car kicks in and applies mechanical brake on the wheel, stopping it from slipping.
But once you have minimal traction (including simulated by brakes) important difference happens between Helical LSD and Open Diff.
Open Diff will continue pushing more speed to the wheel with less traction, so eventually, traction control has to decrease whole motor torque. Helical LSD instead is going to increase speed (move torque) to the wheel that has more traction.
Open diff is safer and less twitchy, since if you have uneven torque on 2 wheels - that will generate rotational force.
And that is the reason why almost all road cars nowadays are Open Diff. Because tire slip in a road car is NOT a normal situation and car is designed for stability rather than performance. Plus motor torque cut on Tesla is very quick, so there is no such dramatic lag in power loss as on ICE cars.
But if your usage is racing and you are ready to catch the car and you just driving at the edge of the slip intentionally - LSD is much faster by design.
I'm uninformed here- why is this hard? You pull the the positive terminal off the 12V battery and the connector under the rear seat. On an older S/X, you just pull the battery and the first responder loop.The actual fitting of the LSD is fairly simple for an experienced mechanic but you have to disconnect the HV to remove the drive unit so you don't want someone who's never seen a car powered by electrickery to do it.
Quaife make them here in the UK.Does anyone know who actually builds the Model 3 and Y production differentials? I heard rumors it's Dana but no confirmation.
Because, like 240V mains electricity or 3-phase there are other precautions it is wise to take other than just 'turning the switch off' which is why it's sensible to employ a qualified electrician to wire up your house or business and someone trained on EVs to play around with your Tesla's HV circuit.I'm uninformed here- why is this hard? You pull the the positive terminal off the 12V battery and the connector under the rear seat. On an older S/X, you just pull the battery and the first responder loop.
I'm actually not sure why you can't just pull the first responder loop- isn't that the point?
...But there aren't. Locking out the main breaker is exactly what a trained electrician does to make repairing a circuit safe. (wiring a house is a whole different deal than removing and replacing something downstream of an existing cutoff).Because, like 240V mains electricity or 3-phase there are other precautions it is wise to take other than just 'turning the switch off' which is why it's sensible to employ a qualified electrician to wire up your house or business and someone trained on EVs to play around with your Tesla's HV circuit.
In the UK we have specific qualifications for working on the EV electrics. If you're not trained, you shouldn't be working on them and personally I would never let an untrained tech work on my Tesla if it involved the HV circuits in any way. That's my choice and I'll stick with it....But there aren't. Locking out the main breaker is exactly what a trained electrician does to make repairing a circuit safe. (wiring a house is a whole different deal than removing and replacing something downstream of an existing cutoff).
Even Tesla's own manuals to disable the HV just tell you to to pull the 12V and penthouse connector. Now all the HV is isolated in the battery (and there is no 12V either).
I want people to be safe too, but part of that is making it clear what is needed to make the work safe, not just treating it as an impossible boogyeman that takes weeks/months/years of training to understand.
Quaife never comes with any instructions. It's for professional installation only.I never saw diffs coming with instructions. I guess if you need them with the diff - you shouldn't buy it. Although, I understand, that in this case it would be useful to post them.