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Discussion in 'Model S: Driving Dynamics' started by Merrill, Mar 25, 2015.
I looked on this thread and just want to make sure that the lug nuts on the Model S are 21mm.
yes, they are. I got a 12 point deep socket 1/2" drive craftsman for this very purpose. $12 or so.
I know because I owned a 12 point deep socket 3/8" drive and destroyed a harbor fright 1/2" to 3/8" adapter with it... (I was in a hurry).
I also know because I had to buy a 22mm deep socket for my Tahoe wheels, and it didn't fit the Tesla as tight.
I didn't choose 12 point, but that's all they had in deep sockets for some reason. But it worked fine.
I think a 6 point is better for the high torque on the lug nuts. Sears doesn't have a 6 point deep socket so I bought the standard 6 point socket and it works just fine... no need for the deep socket.
Each of my lug nuts have two parallel raised ridges on each face. Anyone else see this?
The 12-point 21mm socket would not fit properly due to the ridges, while the 6-point socket fits perfectly.
agreed. the 6 point would most likely be able to provide more torque. the lugs were not very tight when i removed them.
If they sold a 6 point, I would have bought that.
of course if we could just standardize on 6vs 12, that would be super as well!
Indeed, this has been discussed previously (albeit buried by now) and the 6-point socket seemed to win the consensus (21mm).
Thanks for your input, so 6 point 21mm and do not need a deep socket.
I got a 6-point 21mm deep Impact socket, works great:
If you don't have one, I would suggest getting a torque wrench for these lugs - 125 ft lbs is a lot of force to muscle accurately. I got a 50 - 250 ft lb on line for like $60. Bigger is better - makes it easier.
13/16" is also a good fit.
Don't need deep socket
I just measured the lug nut height (17mm) and the Sears 21mm 6 point standard socket depth (18mm) to confirm that you don't need a deep socket. The standard socket depth will work fine.
I got this one from Amazon, mostly because it is thin-walled and protective of the wheels. I just tested it for fit, but did not actually use it. Well, not yet at least, and hopefully never.
Oh I like that one, saves you from having to wrap it in duct tape to protect the rim!
Just for sideways interest, after several wheel rotations (65,000 miles) I noticed that the OEM lug nuts were two layers: steel on the inside, and some softer metal (aluminum?) on the outside, which began to move and loosen. I bought Gorilla nuts. I suppose one could buy any number of brands, but the idea is, you will probably have to replace the lug nuts somewhere along the way, and at that time you can go to the more common 22 mm size nuts. The solid lug nuts don't start slipping, can torque easily, can be worked with a 12 point socket (I still prefer a 6 point) and are nice and shiny. There is a thread here:
Tesla lugnuts - Page 2
A deep well socket helps clear the rim, tire, and fender. Its not needed on the lug nut itself.
I use a 3 inch extension on the standard socket which keeps everything away from the wheels
Although I'm sure it's not critical, but FYI extensions give you inaccurate torque wrench readings.
Not unless the extension is so long that you're able to shift the extension off of perpendicular and thus marginally increase the length of the lever arm. Given we're talking about lug nuts and a short extension that wouldn't add much effective length if used off of square, the differences would likely be less than the tolerance of the torque wrench. I do agree, however, that it's not critical! :smile:
I think the inaccuracy comes from twisting the extension rather than changing the pivot angle.
I know in the case of torquing high performance cylinder heads, or any precision torqued hardware, grease and no-extension are the rule.
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This socket I purchased today will not fit my lugs. I'm at 21k miles so my lugs have been cycled a few times now. So I will be sticking to my 12pt with no impact gun.
Doesn't matter how much the extension twists the torque is the same. Is no different than how much the springs in your suspension are compressed, the spring compression does not lessen or increase the load carried by the wheels.
Harbor Freight sells a neat 3" extension with digital load cell to make a torque wrench out of any ratchet or pry bar you like. About $30. As with most Harbor Freight Chinese electronics the user interface sucks and it eats batteries, but its still pretty neat thing to have.