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M3P- . What is it, how to order it, etc.

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I find it hard to believe there are 0 traction limitations. Not every road is pristine. There isn't any 0-60 benefit from the summer tires on the 20" wheels?

Absolutely there are benefits for handling and stopping distance.

But specifically for best 0-60mph time which was the topic of discussion, it makes no difference.

The car simply does not produce enough torque at the wheels to break all-seasons free on a good surface in a straight line. Not as much torque as an ICE with similar HP.
 
So a bit more info. My sales adviser promised that the car is not software limited to 145 and that it is physically different than AWD (at least past ones). It will need sport wheels (tesla or otherwise) to actually reach past 145, but it has the same top speed.

Bjorn has a video about how he had to have Tesla raise the max speed limit on his Performance Model 3, and they wouldn't do it until the spoiler was installed. (His came without the spoiler but he had the 20" wheels.) He also commented that the car felt much more stable at high speeds after the spoiler was installed, so it is there for a reason.
 
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So here are the official specs. So you need the 20" wheels to hit top speed and you need the aero wheels to hit the range.

View attachment 431182

Where did that chart come from? Because I purchased my P3D- in September without the Upgrade package, spoiler, brakes, etc. and it has a top speed of 162 MPH and it has Track Mode. So, it's either a very recent chart or one that pre-dates my P3D-.
 
Sure. To each their own; it’s just a lot less compelling to spend $2k for that acceleration. My bigger concern is there is going to be massive confusion and upset from people. As usual.

Uhh what?? Lol.

There’s tons of performance-oriented car buyers, both ICE and EV, who would spend an extra $2,000 for that much drop in acceleration times. I mean, the upgraded wheels which do almost nothing costs more than $2,000.
Plus, I’m willing to bet Tesla will do an OTA update just like before.

Smh
 
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Yeah I think the demand to add ~100 HP and drop the 0-60 by that much will be quite significant at $2k. Most people do not track their cars, ever.

Even if you can almost never use that acelleration in real world driving (not many safe scenarios other than deserted highways or long on ramps), some will find value just in the psychological factor of knowing the car CAN accelerate like that.
 
Can’t believe they are going down this road of no Track Mode again. I sure hope they make all the buyers sign this comparison form, so people are aware of what they are not getting.

If that's what they are doing, creating a "Performance" model without Track Mode and 162 MPH top speed, I wouldn't exactly say they are going down the "same road".

Here's why:

The first time they did this they didn't disclose P3D- owners were not getting a true "Performance" model, just without the listed doo-dads. So, Tesla did the right thing to those purchasers who thought they were getting the same model car but without the components listed in the "Upgrade Package". Now, my P3D- has exactly the same software as the P3D with the "Upgrade Package" but that happened last winter when they merged the software of the P3D+ with the P3D-.

If they are now disclosing (as the chart seems to indicate) that the P3D- does not come with the higher top speed and Track Mode, then they don't owe those purchasers anything and they are not going down the same rabbit hole as before. However, it still seems like there is confusion on this issue so they should certainly make it crystal clear before they sell any more of these "partial Performance" models.
 
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Even if you can almost never use that acelleration in real world driving (not many safe scenarios other than deserted highways or long on ramps), some will find value just in the psychological factor of knowing the car CAN accelerate like that.

I disagree. The extra power can be safely and legally used in many real-world situations like departing a green light, turning from a stop sign or red light into fast-moving traffic, etc. The main catch is that it can only be used for a second or two at a time. If you keep it floored much longer than that you will quickly find yourself well above the speed limit.

It can be thought of as "squirt" capability. It allows you to increase your current velocity a significant amount almost instantly. Even up a steep hill.
 
Uhh what?? Lol.

There’s tons of performance-oriented car buyers, both ICE and EV, who would spend an extra $2,000 for that much drop in acceleration times. I mean, the upgraded wheels which do almost nothing costs more than $2,000.
Plus, I’m willing to bet Tesla will do an OTA update just like before.

Smh

Like I said, to each their own. I know of quite a few people who are trying to jump through hoops to approximate a traction control defeat and that costs money. For many people it won’t matter of course. To me it seems like Tesla is trying to drum up interest in the Performance and also convince people to go all the way to max price config.
 
Like I said, to each their own. I know of quite a few people who are trying to jump through hoops to approximate a traction control defeat and that costs money. For many people it won’t matter of course. To me it seems like Tesla is trying to drum up interest in the Performance and also convince people to go all the way to max price config.

I agree. There are those, likely yourself as well, who track cars and go on autoX (I briefly did that way back in time with a Celica and RSX). For those, track mode will make a huge difference. But, for the general car buying population, myself included now, $2,000 for a 0-60 reduction from 4.4 to 3.2 from the factory is unheard. I bet the take rate for P3’s, once this is better publicized, will be a lot higher than it was up until now, which has been almost nothing. Think of everything you would have to do to a standard car for that much increase in acceleration. Although, I don’t really care much for 0-60 by itself. I like the faster passing speed more.
 
Placed my order for a P3D Monday evening hoping to get the smaller wheels along with a price reduction.

3 days and numerous interactions with different people (too many) later, I finally have a VIN assigned for an unbundled, White on Black P3D which was in inventory.

In the process, more than one person has suggested these cars were built on accident. In the tent, perhaps??? Who knows. Things may change and Tesla may still build these to order, but as of right now, I do believe you need to track down a competent sales associate who is capable of assigning you an inventory VIN on the spot if you want one.

As much as I love this car spec, I can’t say the process has left me feeling warm inside just yet. Hopefully that changes upon completing a smooth delivery.
 
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Every LR AWD which is in inventory or in route to a sales desination IS a P3D- in disguise. Just needs an update and Boom you have zero to 60 in 3.2
Im lucky enough to know a sales rep in CA who has debunked these cars were made by accident statement.
Anyone can call can order on right now for $49,990 for a white one with black interior.
Anyone wanting to deal w a competent sales rep who knows the product inside and out, PM me and I will give you his personal contact info to order seamlessly.
 
Since you have track mode, can’t you just slap on some of the silly extras like the wheels and brakes, and just refer to it as P3D?

Yes, but why? I don't want the range/efficiency hit of bigger wheels nor do I want the shorter sidewalls that give a less compliant ride and make the rims more subject to impact damage. That's why I ordered the original Performance version and opted out of the wheels/brake package. And spoiler and metal pedal covers.

I don't need bling and I know how to have fun without overheating the brakes. I was never much into wasting energy just to slow down quickly. That's for competitive racing.
 
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Yes, but why? I don't want the range/efficiency hit of bigger wheels nor do I want the shorter sidewalls that give a less compliant ride and make the rims more subject to impact damage. That's why I ordered the original Performance version and opted out of the wheels/brake package. And spoiler and metal pedal covers.

Not saying you should. Just wondering whether there may be people who do. Since the P3D- label is just something we do on the net. Or is it M3P-?
 
Not saying you should. Just wondering whether there may be people who do. Since the P3D- label is just something we do on the net. Or is it M3P-?

Yes, plenty of people bought the P3D- specifically so they could upgrade to the brakes and wheels they wanted. But if the new versions don't come with Track Mode and 162 MPH, you will never get it to a full P3D. Mine is a P3D in everything but hardware bits.
 
I don't want the range/efficiency hit of bigger wheels nor do I want the shorter sidewalls that give a less compliant ride and make the rims more subject to impact damage.

I own both an SR+ with Primacy 18s and M3P with the 20s/PS4s. From a ride perspective you can't tell the difference. I am not just saying this. I drive the two cars back to back all the time and can't tell a difference in how they handle the bumps, road noise, highway driving, etc. What I do notice is more grip when pushing it in the corners and better stopping power if you really get into the brakes on the M3P. From an appearance perspective the low profile tires look great and fill in the wheel wells much better. As for potential damage, I have been driving cars with low profile tires for a many years now. My C7 Grand Sport had 335/30/20s run-flats (super stiff sidewall) and I was all worried because of all the Internet posts about bending and cracking wheels so I bought the wheel and tire insurance. Never needed it. I mean if you hit a giant pot hole then sure it is possible but that should be a pretty rare event.

FWIW, the biggest thing I notice between the SR+ and M3P is the reduced weight in the SR+. The 400lb weight reduction right over the nose of the car changes the way it handles for the better. Essentially, the SR+ with its weight on the rear feels more like mid engine car in the way it handles and it seems to change direction easier as a result. After driving both of these trims for a little while now I have come to the conclusion that if they had a M3P RWD trim, that is the model I would pick for sure. I guess they just need to the put the induction motor in the rear to get rid of the torque ripple and juice it up a bit. :D
 
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