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M3P- . What is it, how to order it, etc.

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Hopefully that is just just adhesive on the glass from all the shipping wrap they use.

I’d notify your dealer ASAP by email and bring it back to the dealer tomorrow to have them try to clean the glass and interior. If they can clean it up then everything is fine.

I don’t know how a returned car situation actually plays out. I have read that there have been some issues with refunds taking a long time occasionally.

Again hopefully it’s just due to poor detailing after shipping.
 
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Hopefully that is just just adhesive on the glass from all the shipping wrap they use.

I’d notify your dealer ASAP by email and bring it back to the dealer tomorrow to have them try to clean the glass and interior. If they can clean it up then everything is fine.

I don’t know how a returned car situation actually plays out. I have read that there have been some issues with refunds taking a long time occasionally.

Again hopefully it’s just due to poor detailing after shipping.

I don’t believe it’s adhesive on 3 sides of the same glass. I will try cleaner today. Definitely more of coating issues. And you know this could peel off in few years from the point of issue.
 
Hopefully that is just just adhesive on the glass from all the shipping wrap they use.

I’d notify your dealer ASAP by email and bring it back to the dealer tomorrow to have them try to clean the glass and interior. If they can clean it up then everything is fine.

I don’t know how a returned car situation actually plays out. I have read that there have been some issues with refunds taking a long time occasionally.

Again hopefully it’s just due to poor detailing after shipping.

@Rachmaninov - I've read in other forums that the typical flow time to get your money back is around 60 days. I agree, a good Tesla glass and interior cleaning may be all that's needed! Granted, nothing should be "needed" on a new car, but cleaning would be better than tearing the car apart to remove glass (breaking seals, etc.).
 
@Rachmaninov - I've read in other forums that the typical flow time to get your money back is around 60 days. I agree, a good Tesla glass and interior cleaning may be all that's needed! Granted, nothing should be "needed" on a new car, but cleaning would be better than tearing the car apart to remove glass (breaking seals, etc.).

The second image is where the issue lies of either chipped glass or missing coating. So expecting to be replaced. Will know more on Tue as my center doesn’t do deliveries on Monday.
 
Well there was no pressure and this is my second Tesla car. The guy who did delivery told me to send an email with pictures and he’ll do the needful. He also did delivery and paperwork for my first Tesla. So know him. My first car had console scratches all over and it was replaced. I did high level inspection and this is more detailed on the weekend.

This is just a rear full glass panel replacement and maybe interior top fabric or whatever it’s called replacement.

Replacement of whole car IMHO is a stretch but these issues need to be addressed. These don’t affect the performance of the car anyway though.

I didnt have a problem with inspecting before signing either. He told me that it doesnt count till I drive off but I inisisted and he said no problem because I have to go out and read your odometer anyways for the trade in. I looked at the Tesla while he did his thing and then he came back over to make notes on what I found.

I know going for a replacement vehicle is a bit over the top, but Tesla really needs to be punched in the mouth regarding their fit and finish issues, as it appears that asking nicely hasn't worked out very well.

It appears that Tesla is only going to up their game regarding such issues if it bites them in the pocket book. Returning a vehicle for unacceptable cosmetic issues isn't really that far of a stretch (in my book, at least), and lets them know that the consumer expects (or even demands) better from them.

But yeah... in my hands, that car would be going back to the dealer for either a new replacement vehicle or returned for refund of purchase price. No way I'd *ever* accept a car in that state as a "new car" delivery.

I know everyone has their own views on what they will/won't accept; I'm not trying to start an argument at all. This is just my opinion, and FWIW, it ain't gonna change. ; )

There are certain things that are not worth rejecting the car for. Door alignment can be fixed by a mobile ranger or even a 3rd party shop if you want. Things like glass you need Tesla to do as there's structure adhesives and such. If it cant be repaired with a wrench then you have to pass. If it can be fixed by a mobile tech I would accept.

Its really just the flaw of the delivery model and they are further not helped by the subpar workmanship earlier that drew all the bad press. They clearly still aren't doing a final QC step at the factory and thus the buyers have to do it at delivery which is opening the flood gates of what each person is willing to accept and reject.
 
Mine was delivered as a regular LR AWD also and got the software update within 24 hours. I'd like to get the red line added to the car too but my closest service center is over 3 hours away. Does anyone know if they would send me the updated badge or would mobile service come out to install it?

I never heard this before. So I ordered the LR AWD, but found the P3D- that I wanted. Called my SA, and he matched the P3D- VIN to my account. He sent me the screenshot of the car he matched to my account, and it showed as LR AWD Performance. The matched car's VIN matches what he sent me, but it's showing as a LR AWD in my account. Show I be worried? I take delivery on Thursday.
 
I never heard this before. So I ordered the LR AWD, but found the P3D- that I wanted. Called my SA, and he matched the P3D- VIN to my account. He sent me the screenshot of the car he matched to my account, and it showed as LR AWD Performance. The matched car's VIN matches what he sent me, but it's showing as a LR AWD in my account. Show I be worried? I take delivery on Thursday.

I can't say for certain, but when I ordered our P3-, it initially showed up in my account as a LR AWD Performance. my SA told me that is what would happen and then he was able to modify it after the fact, and the P3-, as we ordered was reflected in our account. Might be worth checking, but from what I gathered that is how they have to initially enter the order into the system.
 
I can't say for certain, but when I ordered our P3-, it initially showed up in my account as a LR AWD Performance. my SA told me that is what would happen and then he was able to modify it after the fact, and the P3-, as we ordered was reflected in our account. Might be worth checking, but from what I gathered that is how they have to initially enter the order into the system.

It shows as LR AWD in my account. The price doesn't even reflect the Performance model. I'm hoping it's a glitch because I originally ordered the LR AWD.

The screenshot he sent me when he ordered/matched to my account showed LR AWD Performance. I guess I'll find out in 2 days, but I will be extremely disappointed if it's not the P3D-
 
I got confirmation that my car will be the P3D-. Thanks guys for your support. How do I find out which motor I have? I'll post after I take delivery. I'm hoping tomorrow or Thursday pickup.
There is a stickler on the rear motor that can be seen behind the driver side rear wheel. I attached a picture of my sticker so you know what it looks like
Screenshot_20190726-200036.png
 
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how do you know which you have? also, i'll echo the other guys question; what is the difference?

mine was built on 7/19 as well. :)
So far all p3d- rear motors have been the 980 motor and the recent LR AWD models have had the 990 motor. So people are looking to see if any 990 motors are being used in the performance models or if all performance models have the 980 motor still. See my post above on what to look for to see what motor you have. Mine was a 980
 
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