Are there any LR models, made in China, spotted anywhere else apart from China? I only know for some SR+ that were exported to Europe in December, not Long Range.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
MASTER THREAD: 2021 Model 3 - Charge data, battery discussion etc
- Thread starter EV Promoter
- Start date
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Why do you say this? As I recall, you can only see the cap when the car is fully charged to “100%” (which shows up in SMT as ~96% - can’t remember exact %, shown earlier in this thread).
Am I missing something?
Why they are connecting 2 different battery codes to the boost? They should be unrelated, it will be the first time a connection like this is made...
FredMt
TM3 LR Q4 2021 (after LR Q4 2019 and M3P Q2 2021)
I think like you, I read somewhere that now LRs would also arrive from China to the United Kingdom (because of RHD?), I have no confirmation, that's why I asked the question. But in current case, it seems to be a Panasonic battery, there is good reason to believe, so it should not be. These arrivals would concern LR E5D with LG battery.
Mine was on the Grand Aurora as well, collection date was on the 7th. I'm afraid I haven't charged the car to 100% as of yet, too afraid of causing battery degradation; especially as SMT is already repotting 1-2% after 2,000 miles.
Yep, on the import documents it's listed as E3D. My car does have the Heat-Pump and it's Fremont built. One of the first LR's for Europe in Q4 last year. Interesting to hear about the Software Cap, I assume my LR just had the smaller cell Panasonic batteries unlike the Performance models. I thought/assumed that degradation would be off-balanced pro-actively by a software lock. Which doesn't seem to be the case with my SMT data.
FredMt
TM3 LR Q4 2021 (after LR Q4 2019 and M3P Q2 2021)
You're absolutely right, you haven't missed anything at all
I had in mind that it was necessary to be close to 100% to show the cap, but I do not know why, I believed that there was a possibility of suspecting it on a standard SMT display before max charge.
Thank you so much for reminding me.
FredMt
TM3 LR Q4 2021 (after LR Q4 2019 and M3P Q2 2021)
Sorry I was wrong about the cap. You can see my answer to AlanSubie4Life just after. You see the cap only near max charge.
FredMt
TM3 LR Q4 2021 (after LR Q4 2019 and M3P Q2 2021)
This is to try to understand why the boost for free is available on some LR E5D and not on others.
These 2 new battery packs were discovered during an attempt to link the battery type to the boost for free. But that didn't work : the -17-C battery was found in one case with the boost for free, and in another case without the boost for free.
Last edited:
I’m not that experienced yet with Tesla decisions.
But as we see here and on other forums, a lot of people are unhappy getting the LG Battery and some even reject the cars with LG Bats. ( I do not think Tesla would mount a battery that not is good though).
If they put AB in all E5D/LG cars perhaps people would start rejecting E3CD ?
If you have the opportunity to get a E3CD or a E5D that maybe has the AB, perhaps you can accept the rule of the game and hope for a E5D with AB?
At this stage I'd say Tesla is very close to complete the conversion of all cell production lines to the 2170L, so we'll see less and less E3CD battery packs. I agree the AB is an incentive for the customers to accept a E5D instead of waiting for a E3LD weeks/months down the line.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
This should work: How to calculate battery capacity using information displayed on your cars screen
Just be sure to note the caveats (cold temps, low SoC, etc. can throw off the calculations). But if you exclude those cases it will line up with SMT very well.
I agree with this, as a principle.
I have compared the BMS data via Scan My Tesla very many times so far, and also done this at lower temps and SOC down to 40%.
Ive still got as good results despite low temps/low battery temps.
The only thing that I think really matters is low SOC, because with low SOC the resolution when using SOC in whole percent can give big errors. Per definition, if we stay above 50% SOC, the error would most probably stay within 1%.
(Why the calculation stays good/fine with low battery temps? I think, the BMS do not change the [Nominal full pack] value when the batttery is cold. Calculation might be done as Range = (SOC/100 x Nominal full pack)/ consumption. Which means that even if the BMS miscalculates the SOC due to cold battery, the backward calculation we do end up with the value för Nominal full pack.)
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Good info. I put that caveat in there because I have no idea, since I have zero experience in those conditions. Seems conceivable, since they keep track of how much of the pack is locked out by the blue snowflake, that they can still give proper estimates, as long as the available SOC (after applying deduction of blue area) is not too low. (There are two different SOC values it keeps track of.)
FredMt
TM3 LR Q4 2021 (after LR Q4 2019 and M3P Q2 2021)
If I'm not mistaken, LG cells in Hyundai Kona battery pack are prismatic and NCM622 chemistry and LG cells in model3 battery pack are cylindric and NCM811 chemistry.
Tesla's and Hyundai's BMS are probably quite different.
So, i would say that Tesla has no reason to be concerned by the problem of Hyundai.
Thanks Alan. There were notes that made references to a brand new car/picking up at store, will this still work if the car has a few hundred miles on it now?
It will allways work, and it will tell you the current storage capacity of your batt.
As the 100% state of charge dont always contain the marked size even when new and degradation normally takes away a little part we can judge the type anyway, knowing the normal approx. initial ”size” and the approximate degradation.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
I only included that caveat because I have no idea how it works if the car has no data (for a car with say 3 miles on it, if you're trying to assess the car capacity before you pay for it). But as long as you have at least 5 miles on it it will work for sure.
Similar threads
- Article
