I decided to buy the Hubble one at amazon as I had some credit there from family gift cards. The hubble one was $67 ish there, ands the bryant one was 39-40 at zoro. Since I buy a ton of stuff from amazon already, I figured I couldnt go wrong with "the best" one. I ordered the hubble 14-50 mentioned, the plate mentioned, and the 2 device switch box.
Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide
- Thread starter gilscales
- Start date
I decided to buy the Hubble one at amazon as I had some credit there from family gift cards. The hubble one was $67 ish there, ands the bryant one was 39-40 at zoro. Since I buy a ton of stuff from amazon already, I figured I couldnt go wrong with "the best" one. I ordered the hubble 14-50 mentioned, the plate mentioned, and the 2 device switch box.
The Bryant unit seems just as good as the Hubbell to me or at least 95% so it is by far the one of the two best outlets made, way, way better than the Cooper unit that Tesla recommends, although it is only one of two that the recommend, the other being the Hubbell
That’s the cheapest price I’ve heard of on a genuine Hubbell 14-50 outlet, good score
I hope I got the correct one. I went with the part number you mentioned:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IPBMUKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is a picture of the genuine item, I have never seen it priced this low, just make sure the item matches the pictures in the description and is in fact the real Hubbell item
Through the magic of amazon, I ordered it yesterday afternoon, and prime shipping is now supposed to have it to me today (with regular prime shipping, not overnight). I will confirm when I get it.
Thanks again for starting this thread, this was extremely helpful.
Here are pics of what I received today. Looks like the correct Hubble Part. If so, I feel like I scored a great deal.
Edit... Changing to thumbnails to save people bandwith.
Looks like the real deal, that is a great price, Like the Alpine white granite counters! we have the same ones.
Thanks for confirming the part, and nice call on the granite, lol! It IS Alpine
. A lot of people confuse it with Alaska, but alpine usually has more interesting movement in it.(I learned a lot about granite when I was looking to re do our kitchen counters a few years ago, lol)
Question for DIYers. What torque screwdriver are you using to get the required torque for installing these outlets?
Black306
Member
I'm into firearms, so I have one of these readily available.
Wheeler FAT Torque Wrench and 10 BIT Set for Scope Mounting, Gunsmithing and Maintenance | Wheeler
eprosenx
Active Member
I bought this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RZ1D86/
But I honestly have not used it a ton so I can’t really tell you how good it is.
On robust breakers and receptacles the reality is that I have never seen an electrician use a torque screwdriver. Most just put some elbow grease into it.
Where I really worry about it is things like the wall connector that may have terminals on PCB’s. I use the torque screwdriver on those. Also, lower end breakers that use a screw to directly depress the copper wire can pierce into it so you don’t want to over torque that.
Watts_Up
Active Member
May be there should be an indication of maximum number of time you can plug and unplug, like some military grade connecteurs.
Most of the time, those 14-50 NEMA plugs are used to connect an oven range,
and will not be touched for the next ten years until the home owner decide to repaint the kitchen.
Great idea Watts_up but how will you keep count?
To make a better connection, I twist the strands of wire together tightly. Then they do not spread as much when the screw is tightened and they do not tend to spread out from under the screw. I have the Hubbard 6-50 because it does not require me to run a neutral but it does not have the bars on the end of the screws like the 14-50.
To make a better connection, I twist the strands of wire together tightly. Then they do not spread as much when the screw is tightened and they do not tend to spread out from under the screw. I have the Hubbard 6-50 because it does not require me to run a neutral but it does not have the bars on the end of the screws like the 14-50.
JPP
Active Member
Thanks to the above suggestions and link to the Hubbel NEMA 14-50R @ Amazon, I decided to replace my vintage 2013 receptacles installed back then by SolarCity as part of a 16kW solar install (they would install NEMA 14-50R as a low cost add on). I have never had a problem with my existing receptacles or circuits. No burning, no heat, no tripped breakers. Used them with occasional unplug-insert cycles until a year ago when I installed the referral black HPWCs using a short NEMA 14-50 pigtail.
So when I deinstalled the original receptacles, I found that 1 was a cheap Leviton with Philips screws set to drive the wire against the anvil. The screws were none too tight, and on both the neutral and 1 hot several of the strands were broken. The 2nd receptacle (2nd garage) was some real no-name version with flat blade screws, again none too tight, and also with the design that drives a screw and the wire against an anvil.
I installed the new Hubbels, which interestingly are of a slightly larger diameter that the others, requiring new cover plates. I like the clamping design (wedge shaped plate driving the wire against another flat anvil--no need for a ferrule). Stripped back the wires with the broken strands, got everything nice and tight with the hex driver. All good.
Really glad that I checked and did the upgrade, even if I never unplug the HPWCs.
So when I deinstalled the original receptacles, I found that 1 was a cheap Leviton with Philips screws set to drive the wire against the anvil. The screws were none too tight, and on both the neutral and 1 hot several of the strands were broken. The 2nd receptacle (2nd garage) was some real no-name version with flat blade screws, again none too tight, and also with the design that drives a screw and the wire against an anvil.
I installed the new Hubbels, which interestingly are of a slightly larger diameter that the others, requiring new cover plates. I like the clamping design (wedge shaped plate driving the wire against another flat anvil--no need for a ferrule). Stripped back the wires with the broken strands, got everything nice and tight with the hex driver. All good.
Really glad that I checked and did the upgrade, even if I never unplug the HPWCs.
Reasons why Leviton 14-50 outlets are bad...see below. Repaired the wiring and replaced the outlet with a Hubble today. Don't cheap out on this process when installing your outlet people. It's not worth it in the long run. My Juicebox is also damaged now and it is not covered under warranty for this problem. 
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GPinzone
Member
Someone should sticky this advice: Spray Deoxit DN5 into the 14-50 outlet. It cleans and lubricates electrical connections. You will have MUCH less wear and tear on the outlet. It only took one generous application and my UNC plugs and unplugs with ease since I did it. I sprayed it into the charge port, too and I believe it's prevented the charging pin from freezing, but I haven't tested that thoroughly. Still, it can't hurt.
I noticed that some of these 14-50R's have 75degsC Cu Al stamped on them. I can only presume this relates to the ampacity ratings of the wire. I had one electrician tell me that it was okay to use aluminum #6 for this job because at 90C Al is rated to carry 60A. I told him I didn't want my cabling to be boiling hot. Seems like 75C is plenty hot (167degs F).
I have installed #6 Cu and it gets pretty hot at 40A so I've turned down my charging current to 30A.
I think few people need a 40A charge rate on the Model 3.
I think few people need a 40A charge rate on the Model 3.
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