AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
That is just the pads touching the rotor. I had the wheels off so they probably shifted a bit during the jacking process.
Yeah...might be a while though.
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Model 3 clicking sound near the rear wheel area
- Thread starter Falcon3
- Start date
That is just the pads touching the rotor. I had the wheels off so they probably shifted a bit during the jacking process.
Yeah...might be a while though.
Generally audible clicking on acceleration and to a lesser degree on deceleration is caused by constant velocity joints in the half shafts.
That wear can be accelerated by stomping on the go pedal from dead stops at every stop light. There are some really high stresses placed on driveline components involved with wide open throttle launches on a regular basis.
That wear can be accelerated by stomping on the go pedal from dead stops at every stop light. There are some really high stresses placed on driveline components involved with wide open throttle launches on a regular basis.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Yeah. Probably the inner CV. Or the differential. (Pretty obvious in the video.) Mine was there from when the car was brand new though. It is quiet enough I did not notice for a week or two but certainly before I did any autocrossing and the like (just autocrossed once).
Also haven’t heard this reported as routine from people who track their cars, so it may not be correlated with launches.
Also for me no noise from the rear (so to some extent it is the wrong thread, but seems related) which is where most of the power is produced.
groovyd
Member
makes sense and yeah i'm not a wuss on the accel but that is one of the reasons I bought the car.
Again though, this isn’t a wear issue. New cars also experience this. Sorry, new Tesla Model 3s.
Proflig8tor
Member
The axle has splines which transfer torque to the hub. There is a little clearance so the two parts can be assembled and later serviced if need be. A little clearance also allows parts to be more durable. After reading this thread this sounds like the countless other threads involving very similar parts on other cars and trucks. The click shouldn't hurt a thing and can be solved with grease until the grease dries up or gets slung out of the hole and the click returns. The parts can also wear enough so that nothing sticks and the sound disappears.
A few years ago Ford had this problem with driveshafts, exacerbated by the fact the metal they used would rust and fuse the parts together until they broke free with a clunk and bang loud enough to make the driver think they had been in an accident. After a while, they would wear enough and the problem would fix itself. Greasing it also helped but prolonged the time it took for the surfaces to break in.
Haven't seen these parts on the M3, but they are pretty robust un the Model S. Ostensibly someone who mostly regens may never have the rear suspension apart and these are supposedly designed to go 1,000,000 miles or more (which we are hearing a lot about today with the new battery news). If so, that's a heck of a bearing ... .
I would actually have greater concern about the axle nuts being over-torqued to silence a click and causing premature wear elsewhere. My guess is that this has a bearing pressed into the carrier assembly and not many of us have a bearing press in our garages anymore.
A few years ago Ford had this problem with driveshafts, exacerbated by the fact the metal they used would rust and fuse the parts together until they broke free with a clunk and bang loud enough to make the driver think they had been in an accident. After a while, they would wear enough and the problem would fix itself. Greasing it also helped but prolonged the time it took for the surfaces to break in.
Haven't seen these parts on the M3, but they are pretty robust un the Model S. Ostensibly someone who mostly regens may never have the rear suspension apart and these are supposedly designed to go 1,000,000 miles or more (which we are hearing a lot about today with the new battery news). If so, that's a heck of a bearing ... .
I would actually have greater concern about the axle nuts being over-torqued to silence a click and causing premature wear elsewhere. My guess is that this has a bearing pressed into the carrier assembly and not many of us have a bearing press in our garages anymore.
silentcorp
Member
My point was to throw cold water on the wear theory. Pretty basic troubleshooting and it’s ruled out. Further propping it up is a distraction and counterproductive.
5_+JqckQttqck
Active Member
Car currently in Mississauga SC for clicking in the front and back. Got a Black 3LR loaner for the day. Lets see how they do when the car's ready.
Has anyone taken their car to an independent mechanic for inspection? The halfshaft CV click (mentioned in at least a few of these posts) started for me in July and I've been stuck in limbo since. I'm in a mobile service zone and they say they don't have the part. I mention the mechanic because a bad CV joint is generally not great to drive on and I have almost 2000 miles to do before the next apt. in 3 weeks.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
It's probably fine as long as it doesn't fall apart. I think the risk of that is probably fairly low if the boot is still intact (which of course they are).
I'm planning a 1200-mile round-trip to the North Rim of Grand Canyon next week, so hopefully my "tappers" will hold together.
5_+JqckQttqck
Active Member
The SeC called yesterday. They're keeping the car until a new front axle assembly arrives. Sounds serious; updates to come.
Johnny Mac
Member
hridge2020
Member
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Not surprised. I figure there's not really another option for half-shaft issues. Did they say it was the inner CV joint?
It's really not a major issue, pretty sure just a few things on the front hub have to be removed (if necessary to allow you the space) to remove the half-shaft, and then it just pulls out and they put another one in. Just plops right into the differential. Maybe they replace seals too but I'm not sure that's necessary (I never have when replacing half-axles). It's really a super easy job - the main issue is simply making sure you have the space to work to remove and replace the axle.
I sure hope mine hold together for my 1200-mile drive.
Did yours sound similar to the video I posted (above somewhere)?
5_+JqckQttqck
Active Member
Not surprised. I figure there's not really another option for half-shaft issues. Did they say it was the inner CV joint?
It's really not a major issue, pretty sure just a few things on the front hub have to be removed (if necessary to allow you the space) to remove the half-shaft, and then it just pulls out and they put another one in. Just plops right into the differential. Maybe they replace seals too but I'm not sure that's necessary (I never have when replacing half-axles). It's really a super easy job - the main issue is simply making sure you have the space to work to remove and replace the axle.
I sure hope mine hold together for my 1200-mile drive.
Did yours sound similar to the video I posted (above somewhere)?
The front clicking (right side mostly) happens when I drive up and down a curb (entering/exiting plazas or house driveway). Two techs sat in the car with me and we were able reproduce it quite frequently by driving over a storm sewer that drooped into the pavement.
They're keeping the car until the replacement parts arrive. I'll know more next week.
Yep, the boot is fine as you said.
update: they found me an appointment at the Service Lite location to do a visual exam. (Mine clicks on slow sharp left turns only)
The tech said it was 'ok for now' but confirmed that if it were present when going straight, or if the steering started to rumble, etc. that would be a different story.
Given the fact that they've had months to get parts I'm not too pleased about this.
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