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Thanks. I found something that looked like a Tesla manual. The procedure involves hooking EMC up to the Tesla Tool Box (for running the pumps I assume) and requiring a couple of specialized tools to push the coolant out and vacuum to evacuate air refilling. The draining procedure is basically disconnecting one of the water pumps. I have ordered a coolant pressure/vacuum device that might work, now I need to find out how to burb the system after refilling without the ToolBox. Does anyone know if driving around with the cap off would be sufficient to burb the bubbles out?I'm sure there is a procedure. Probably a drain mode and fill mode in the service menu.
AFAIK the service menu is not available to mortals.
If the battery is cold enough and you pre-heat the car, it will run the pumps to circulate the coolant even sitting still. Scanmytesla shows flow rates and valve settings. With the frunk lining out, you can see many of the coolant lines. One of those 12V pumps for drawing the oil out of a car or pumping other liquids may be helpful in refilling the coolant from the bottom. Or you could disconnect one of the Tesla pumps and use it in the car.
Maybe buy one from a salvage?
Did the question of why this process has to be done get answered? What is the issue? Is this a side hobby for fun?
It seems like we've figured out a few aspects of it but I'm not convinced that anyone writing in here knows what they're doing.
Big Earl answered it. As for the reasons, I've just bought a 2015 70D for my son (this first car) and I wanted to prepare it for him (steering rack bolts, EMC chip, LTE, transmission oil, brakes, coolant, and detailing and paint protection).Did the question of why this process has to be done get answered? What is the issue? Is this a side hobby for fun?
It seems like we've figured out a few aspects of it but I'm not convinced that anyone writing in here knows what they're doing.
But coolant change is not longer considered necessary?Big Earl answered it. As for the reasons, I've just bought a 2015 70D for my son (this first car) and I wanted to prepare it for him (steering rack bolts, EMC chip, LTE, transmission oil, brakes, coolant, and detailing and paint protection).
Back when the S's coolant change interval was 4 years, I had a 4 year service (with coolant and brake fluid change) for $850. Odd year services (4 year minus both fluid changes) were $475 (ripoff - a bunch of inspections, new wiper blades, keyfob batteries, HVAC filter, top off washer fluid, rotate tires). I don't have the 2 year price (4 year minus coolant change), which is what you really want.I'm curious how much Tesla charges for the coolant change. Can anyone who has had this performed share the price of the service?
I am preparing to change the coolant in my son’s 70D. Anyone have suggestions on the best place to drain and is there a procedure to remove air pockets? Or do we just drain and fill? Cheers!
If your question is why the coolant needs to be changed, the answer is because it breaks down over time.
Why?
Tesla says that the coolant is good for the life of the car. No need to change it. They use to have a schedule to change it but after analyzing the old coolant they determined it wasn't necessary like in an ICE. (Probably because it isn't exposed to the same harsh environment and heat.)
The coolant for Model 3 consists of G-48 coolant, which is tinted blue. G-48 is a long-life coolant designed for high aluminum content powertrain systems, and is supplied from the manufacturer pre-mixed to 50% G-48 and 50% distilled water.I have found the answer for at least model S, I suspect that it is the same for model 3 but you need to confirm.
Using G-48 coolant:
mixture of 60% ethylene glycol and 40% water freezes at −45 °C (−49 °F)
Thanks. I found something that looked like a Tesla manual. The procedure involves hooking EMC up to the Tesla Tool Box (for running the pumps I assume) and requiring a couple of specialized tools to push the coolant out and vacuum to evacuate air refilling. The draining procedure is basically disconnecting one of the water pumps. I have ordered a coolant pressure/vacuum device that might work, now I need to find out how to burb the system after refilling without the ToolBox. Does anyone know if driving around with the cap off would be sufficient to burb the bubbles out?
Did you ever change the coolant?
I have a 2013 model s I just bought used. I just changed the drivetrain fluid. I am considering buying the G48 and siphoning the coolant out the reservoir and replacing it every month or so for a while. Since the fluid is constantly being pumped/moved, over time I should be able to replace it without the hassle of interfacing with the computer. I was still curious if you had managed to do this or not?
Same coolant BMW uses. Nothing special!Thanks for all the replies. G48 it is - and coolant spec is VERY important - particularly when its channelled around the battery pack in a possibly electrostatically charged environment. The reason I am asking will become clear in time!