I replaced my struts with coilovers and it made the clunking more noticeable.If that’s the case (strut), Mountain Pass Performance will be getting a phone call from me.
You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I replaced my struts with coilovers and it made the clunking more noticeable.If that’s the case (strut), Mountain Pass Performance will be getting a phone call from me.
I currently have MPP comfort coilovers. I doubt the sound is the strut, it sounds like a loose bolt (which have all been checked).I replaced my struts with coilovers and it made the clunking more noticeable.
My clunk started right after installing MPP comfort adjustable coilovers and the solid front lower control arm bearings. Maybe I should give the compression rod bushing a try too. Which one did you use? I see MPP sells a compression rod insert too. I may start there....I was able to eliminate my clunk last night by replacing the lower compression arm ball joint, the rear one attached to the bottom of the knuckle. IDK if this is everyone's issue, but worth a shot. My compression arm bushing at the rear tore a few months ago, so I replaced it with the MPP bushing. I think it makes sense that the torn bushing also caused premature wear of the front ball joint. When I removed the compression arm, the ball joint didn't clunk like I see in some YouTube videos but it did swivel around really easy by hand compared to the new part. Hope that helps someone or at least gives you one more thing to check.
Thanks for the description. Do you have the part number or other ordering information?Sorry it’s kinda hard to describe without pictures. It’s not either of the bushings that MPP replaces. It was the ball joint under the knuckle. OEM replacement is the option aware of.
Thanks so much. This is very helpful. Will check it out!View attachment 791298
It was that guy. There’s 4 part numbers in the parts catalog. Left, right, and “0.975 kN/mm” which makes me think they had a revision at some point?
We are all getting the same answer. Something is clearly defective, but instead of replacing parts to isolate the issue they just torque bolts and visually check. I ordered FUCAs from MPP so I’m going to start replacing parts top down until I find the culprit.Hi All,
Update on my car, (and just to confirm its a standard car, no uprated parts and the clunk has been with me from new.)
Please see Tesla's response below.
- The noise (customer name) is experiencing is not a loud noise and is only present on very uneven roads
- the noise is a characteristic of the M3 and there is no ‘fix’
- This is absolutely not a safety issue
- All noises are much louder/clearer in EV’s due to lack of engine noise
- Key components were also removed and tested and they found no fault
- Tesla don’t feel there is anything else they can do for this car
The whole EVs being quieter meaning suspension is more easilly heard is a moot point. My wife's PHEV Countryman is silent over rough roads in electric only. It's only an issue if your suspension is making excessive noise - which it shouldnt.Hi All,
Update on my car, (and just to confirm its a standard car, no uprated parts and the clunk has been with me from new.)
Please see Tesla's response below.
- The noise (customer name) is experiencing is not a loud noise and is only present on very uneven roads
- the noise is a characteristic of the M3 and there is no ‘fix’
- This is absolutely not a safety issue
- All noises are much louder/clearer in EV’s due to lack of engine noise
- Key components were also removed and tested and they found no fault
- Tesla don’t feel there is anything else they can do for this car
We are all getting the same answer. Something is clearly defective, but instead of replacing parts to isolate the issue they just torque bolts and visually check. I ordered FUCAs from MPP so I’m going to start replacing parts top down until I find the culprit.