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Model 3 "Performance Brake Calipers" just red or different altogether?

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If there was demand for a real aero 19" wheel we would build one. I don't think its there yet - but I know personally that is what I want. a 19" aero wheel that fits our brakes, has equal aero performance to the 18 and less weight.

There are many affordable 19" snow tire options as well, however for those that want to stick with 18's our 1mm thicker/curved vane front 2pc rotor is a good solution!
I would be very interested in 19" aero wheels for the winter. But I wouldn't pay as much as I would for 19" light weight wheels for the summer. How do you know there isn't interest?
 
What's two piece rotor? - By definition it's an assembly of rotor hat and rotor disc with hardware having a feature allowing disc to expand and contract during heat cycles so to prevent the rotor from cracking or warping due to the volumatic change under different braking temperature. other than the weight saving, when the disc is worn you can just replace the rotor rings.

Illustration below is a two piece rotor for Miata MX5 with 8 mounting tabs.

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RB Discs engraved with P/N, Min Thk, Date Code, Lot ID

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RB Hats are engraved with P/N for easy tracking on applications and disc replacement.

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More detailed pictures and measurements thanks to SD_Engnr. :)

Link: P3D+ misc info and pics- wheel weight, calipers, suspension

Just click "Click to expand..." below to see all of the pictures...
Well, that was awkward... I went to install my 19" aftermarket wheels (Wedssport SA-67R w/Michelin PSS) that were collecting dust in the garage, and I ran into a bit of a problem with them not fitting. Model 3 wheel studs are 14mm, but my Infiniti are 12mm. It turns out that the mounting holes of the wheels were not meant for larger than 12mm. Doh! I should have looked into this ahead of time! I really wanted to run this set up as I love the look, and they're a minimum of 8 lbs lighter. Anyway, on to the info I gathered and some pictures I took.

Wheel studs: M14x1.5
20x8.5 w/tire weight: 52.5 lbs
Rear rotor thickness: 20mm (.787")
Front rotor thickness: 25mm (.985")
Rear half shaft thickness: 25mm (.985")
Front half shaft thickness: 25mm (.985")
Hub ring: 64.1mm (2.523")
These were gathered with a caliper that measured in imperial units.

Did not get rotor diameter...

Attached are photos because why not?
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AH, so that's how they made the front half shafts fit through the strut:
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Not a whole lot of room here:
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Random:
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Additional misc pictures:
Oh you know, just some zip ties holding something to the upper control arm:
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Missing hardware:
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20180811_172834-1-jpg.325080


-Shane
 
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I agree. In general you want to leave the outboard (wheel spoke side) as widely open as possible to help inducing cool air for more efficient cooling; especially all Tesla models (S or M3) have a very tight clearance between rotor and dust shield on inboard.

Usually with good help of cooling air (natural or ducted) it can work more effectively than trying to upgrade on brake components - Remember no matter how effective the brake parts (rotor or pads) are w/o adequate cooling/ventilation the brake performance will suffer due to the poor heat dissipation.

Our goal is to build a trackable brake kit (front and rear) that will fit under stock 18" wheel (wheel cover removed); as 18" is the most common size in track community for choice and availability on cost (initial and replacement) in wheel and tire. And for those who live in cold weather area it can eliminate the need of switching the wheel & tire.

One of our recent brake projects is to build a 380/380mm complete 6/4 pot caliper kit that will fit under 18" wheels (Forgeline) for the latest super muscle car - Mustang GT350; even it comes with stock 19" light weight carbon wheels with 394/380mm rotors. This set up is only for serious track racers only but it can give you some idea of what I am talking about.

Warren,
In your third paragraph you mention that the aero covers have to be removed in order to work with a brake kit. For me there are two purposes of trying to make a brake kit that fits under 18s, one is to be able to use my aero covers for efficiency and the other is to get a set of rims for track outings that can I throw some sticky ass tires on and go enjoy a track day.

Could you please clarify for sure that model s and or what ever calipers with bigger rotors you will be using won't work with the aero covers.

By the way thank you for taking the time to talk to me on the phone today you are a wealth of knowledge.
 
Resurrecting this thread-

Can someone summarize?

- Are the red calipers on the $5000 performance upgrade bigger than the standard?
- Can I use snow tires on the 18" aero wheels that come with the dual motor Performance?
- Is it possible to order the 19" wheels instead of the 18" for $1500?

I don't want the 20" wheels nor do I want the other items in the $5K package. I can justify the ugly (IMO) 18" aero wheels if I can put snow tires on them and buy a summer set of 19" wheels if Tesla won't sell me the $1500 set.

Thanks in advance.
 
Does anybody know's how much a 2018-2020 Model 3 front and rear performance red caliper weight? And how much the non performance ones weight? So basically is there a weight and also a braking power difference between them? So far I can't find the answer...

I don’t have the weight measurements, but I can tell you those on the performance model are definitely larger. Additionally, as a result, there is a significant braking power and cooling improvement. I think the stopping distance improvement was something like 20ft improvement from 60 -> 0, which adds more safety even in real world driving.
 
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I don’t have the weight measurements, but I can tell you those on the performance model are definitely larger. Additionally, as a result, there is a significant braking power and cooling improvement. I think the stopping distance improvement was something like 20ft improvement from 60 -> 0, which adds more safety even in real world driving.


That is physically impossible.

Bigger brakes can not reduce stopping distance on a car where the regular brakes already can engage ABS.

The difference in stopping distance from P3D+ to a P3D- is from the tires. 100%.

Put PS4s tires on the regular-brakes 3 and it stops in the same distance as the P3D+ just as physics requires.

Bigger brakes can maintain the same stopping distance over multiple repeated no-time-to-cool-down stops on a race track.

They can't stop you shorter the first time, because if you can engage ABS with the stock brakes MOAR BRAKES does nothing for you at all.

If you wanna stop shorter in the first place you need stickier tires, not bigger brakes.

If you want a deeper dive into why the above is how this actually works, I highly highly suggest this:

GRM Pulp Friction
 
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