Model 3 performance new 18 inch wheel option now avail 7/15/19

[StealthP3D]

Haha I tried to trade in a LR AWD that listed for 51K 4 months ago for a perf model and it had 200 miles on it but was over a week out by a day and Tesla offered me 39K trade in lolol...great resale value!

You should probably temper your sarcasm until you learn the difference between trade-in value and resale value. Kelly Blue Book and other pricing guides have separate values listed for each and trade-in values are always lower.

Tesla is production constrained, if they don't sell it to you, someone else will snap it up so they have little incentive to encourage those with trade-ins (used car sales do not drive their business plan). And traditional car lots are not known for offering full resale value either unless they really want to move the car you are trying to buy.

 

[derekmw]

I can't get over how gorgeous this car is. I love it! Your friends MAY notice the Dual Motor badge and no chrome delete if they have keen eyes Was it worth it?

Heh, yes I was hoping to get into the shop sooner to do tint and chrome delete but they don't have openings for 3 weeks! They may also notice the temp plates too. And yes that dual motor badge, I wish they didn't put that on. I hate badging... It looks pretty painful to take off too.

Definitely worth it though. My MR feels so slow compared to this. I can't believe how quick this one feels. I averaged 250wh/mile in the MR but I have a feeling it'll be quite a bit higher in this one. Lol

 

[Sneakerhead]

Looks like they brought back the sleeper (P3D-) option stated 18 inch wheels avail on special request.
I called and confirmed you loose: 20 inch wheels/performance brakes/alum pedals/carbon spoiler/susp upgrade.
Confirmed you can subtract $5000.00 from build if choosing this option.

You can now get a brand new performance sleeper for $49,990 before any rebates.

So same price as my 18 LR RWD lol. Wish I've waited.

 

[mact3333]

You should probably temper your sarcasm until you learn the difference between trade-in value and resale value. Kelly Blue Book and other pricing guides have separate values listed for each and trade-in values are always lower.

Tesla is production constrained, if they don't sell it to you, someone else will snap it up so they have little incentive to encourage those with trade-ins (used car sales do not drive their business plan). And traditional car lots are not known for offering full resale value either unless they really want to move the car you are trying to buy.

No need to lecture I have bought and sold 30 cars minimum in my days...I know the difference...does it not bother you that wholesale value on a essentially new car with 200 miles on it 12K less than new?...retail value on my car should be 48K easy...whole sale should have been closer to 43-44K

 

[groovidad]

If Tesla allows this in new configs. Then I can see them potentially unlocking 3’s to gain the 1sec. for cash, of course. My only concern is the beefier brakes as the current on my 3 are kinda “lacking” in stopping power, in my experience.

 

[Knightshade]

If Tesla allows this in new configs. Then I can see them potentially unlocking 3’s to gain the 1sec. for cash, of course. My only concern is the beefier brakes as the current on my 3 are kinda “lacking” in stopping power, in my experience.

They will stop the car in exactly the same distance the bigger brakes on the P3D+ will (all else being equal)

The brakes don't stop the car- the tires do.

If you want to stop shorter, get better tires.

 

[WilliamG]

They will stop the car in exactly the same distance the bigger brakes on the P3D+ will (all else being equal)

The brakes don't stop the car- the tires do.

If you want to stop shorter, get better tires.

Multiple stops will favor the better brakes. I assume the larger the surface area of the tire the faster your car will stop, too.

Also brake pedal feel is better on better brakes.

 

[Daniel in SD]

Multiple stops will favor the better brakes. I assume the larger the surface area of the tire the faster your car will stop, too.

Also brake pedal feel is better on better brakes.

I think you’re way overestimating how hard most people drive on the street. Very few people do multiple hard brake applications from 100mph in quick succession. Obviously if you do that you’re going to want the bigger brakes of the P3D+ (and a good attorney).
The “feel” of the brakes has very little to do with the calipers themselves. The pad compound on the regular brakes is definitely tuned towards smoothness instead of initial bite. How much of a difference that makes in reaction time I have no idea.

 

[StealthP3D]

No need to lecture I have bought and sold 30 cars minimum in my days...I know the difference...does it not bother you that wholesale value on a essentially new car with 200 miles on it 12K less than new?...retail value on my car should be 48K easy...whole sale should have been closer to 43-44K

Nope. Doesn't bother me at all. The depreciation of Tesla is historically less than tradition cars. That's a fact. And I own two Model 3's, both purchased last year. I was critical of your cavalier attitude only because you didn't know the difference between trade-in value and resale value. Having sold 30 used cars in your days is no excuse for conflating these two very different metrics.

 

[WilliamG]

I think you’re way overestimating how hard most people drive on the street. Very few people do multiple hard brake applications from 100mph in quick succession. Obviously if you do that you’re going to want the bigger brakes of the P3D+ (and a good attorney).
The “feel” of the brakes has very little to do with the calipers themselves. The pad compound on the regular brakes is definitely tuned towards smoothness instead of initial bite. How much of a difference that makes in reaction time I have no idea.

Doesn’t need to be hard braking. Do some canyon carving with the non-P brakes and you’ll lose a lot of feel and braking power fairly quickly.

For some this won’t be important.

 

[Knightshade]

Doesn’t need to be hard braking. Do some canyon carving with the non-P brakes and you’ll lose a lot of feel and braking power fairly quickly.

You shouldn't... especially in a P3D- with track mode and higher regen. If you are you probably need to relearn driving with regen compared to an old-style automatic ICE vehicle... (manual ICE drivers will be better at this- they're already familiar with using engine braking similar to regen instead of relying on friction brakes)

For some this won’t be important.

For almost nobody not on a race track or involved in the chase scene from a Bourne movie will it be important

 

[WilliamG]

You shouldn't... especially in a P3D- with track mode and higher regen. If you are you probably need to relearn driving with regen compared to an old-style automatic ICE vehicle... (manual ICE drivers will be better at this- they're already familiar with using engine braking similar to regen instead of relying on friction brakes)




For almost nobody not on a race track or involved in the chase scene from a Bourne movie will it be important

Well, I happen to prefer the brake feel of the P3D+ greatly. It's really... great.

But of course everyone has different priorities. Yes, it's $5K more expensive, but a LOT of people don't like the 18s anyway (personally I think they're the ugliest wheels to ever grace a car of this cost - admittedly less so without the Aero covers), so then they're buying new wheels, and also new tires. Realistically you're spending what? $3k on reasonable wheels and tires + transferring the TPMS and having them mounted and balanced? So then out of the $5K you would have spent on the P3D+ you're dealing with $3k and then hassle of doing it. I think that $2k for the brake package, carbon fiber spoiler, different suspension, pedals, fancy badging - well worth it to me. So, you know, YMMV as always!

 

[Petra]

I assume the larger the surface area of the tire the faster your car will stop, too

Yeah, but that's not really part of the discussion here because the 20" wheels are the same width as the 18" wheels, the included tires are the same width, and the lower aspect of the PS4S on the 20" wheels makes the overall diameter about the same as the MXM4 tires on the 18" wheels.

 

[caskater47]

Well, I happen to prefer the brake feel of the P3D+ greatly. It's really... great.

But of course everyone has different priorities. Yes, it's $5K more expensive, but a LOT of people don't like the 18s anyway (personally I think they're the ugliest wheels to ever grace a car of this cost - admittedly less so without the Aero covers), so then they're buying new wheels, and also new tires. Realistically you're spending what? $3k on reasonable wheels and tires + transferring the TPMS and having them mounted and balanced? So then out of the $5K you would have spent on the P3D+ you're dealing with $3k and then hassle of doing it. I think that $2k for the brake package, carbon fiber spoiler, different suspension, pedals, fancy badging - well worth it to me. So, you know, YMMV as always!

Not exactly. I have the stealth and replaced the rotors (2k), brake lines (155), pads (300) and 19" forged wheels/tires (3k). Installation for everything cost me $400. So we're talking lesa than 6k total. Now you could argue I should have bought the PUP but here's why my set up is better.

+ wheels are 12+ lbs lighter than stock PUP and forged therefore stronger too
+ tires are the same but wider than stock (255)
+ rotors are two piece lightweight and larger than stock PUP with significantly better performance.
+ new pads have significantly better bite over stock

For many, the 20" wheels are too terrible to be worth the upgrade and if you plan on upgrading to track ready parts anyway there is no point in spending an additional 5k on parts you don't need. The only real consideration would be the larger calipers but they don't significantly improve performance to be worth 5k alone.

At Tesla Corsa the car drives beautifully, never has brake fade and has beat many stock PUP cars (I ranked first in the beginner group and 13th in the advanced group).

 

[WilliamG]

Not exactly. I have the stealth and replaced the rotors (2k), brake lines (155), pads (300) and 19" forged wheels/tires (3k). Installation for everything cost me $400. So we're talking lesa than 6k total. Now you could argue I should have bought the PUP but here's why my set up is better.

+ wheels are 12+ lbs lighter than stock PUP and forged therefore stronger too
+ tires are the same but wider than stock (255)
+ rotors are two piece lightweight and larger than stock PUP with significantly better performance.
+ new pads have significantly better bite over stock

For many, the 20" wheels are too terrible to be worth the upgrade and if you plan on upgrading to track ready parts anyway there is no point in spending an additional 5k on parts you don't need. The only real consideration would be the larger calipers but they don't significantly improve performance to be worth 5k alone.

At Tesla Corsa the car drives beautifully, never has brake fade and has beat many stock PUP cars (I ranked first in the beginner group and 13th in the advanced group).

I hear you. But to be honest your conclusion isn't valid. I had my instructor at my HPDE day drive my Stage 2 STI around Pacific Raceways out here in the Pacific Northwest and he made a mockery of other drivers with much, much faster cars. Driver will be a great part of this (that's a compliment).

You're also forgetting the CF spoiler (which is not just for looks), and the suspension lowering (I have no real input on how well this affects handling).

In any case, I think most people are very happy with the 20" wheels. You'll always see the largest amount of people complain rather than praise. That's why ever refrigerator you can buy has TERRIBLE reviews.

 

[caskater47]

I hear you. But to be honest your conclusion isn't valid. I had my instructor at my HPDE day drive my Stage 2 STI around Pacific Raceways out here in the Pacific Northwest and he made a mockery of other drivers with much, much faster cars. Driver will be a great part of this (that's a compliment).

You're also forgetting the CF spoiler (which is not just for looks), and the suspension lowering (I have no real input on how well this affects handling).

In any case, I think most people are very happy with the 20" wheels. You'll always see the largest amount of people complain rather than praise. That's why ever refrigerator you can buy has TERRIBLE reviews.

True suspension and spoioer are a consideration. I think the spoiler less so but suspension definitely is factor. Although as I understand it the stock suspension on PUP isn't significant enough to be impactful as most are seeking aftermarket options. I'll be upgrading to the MPP sport coilovers at some point myself. I can feel the roll on corners and would like to squash it.

 

[yul sam]

I do remember that. I don’t remember how early that was in the process.

I was one of those. 9/28/2018
Ordered P3D-, LR AWD car was delivered. Took about 30 minutes for the transformation.

 

[Msjulie]

Interesting, the rest of us with P3D+ see this, I believe. View attachment 431382

Thanks for that, I didn't know my lowly Stealth 3 had the added warning. No worries, my brakes are updated and worked great with track mode.

It appeared that many (not all) of the fastest cars were running 18" rims with dedicated tires for track use and probably track pads to boot.

On the street, I never felt any issue with the original brakes ever FWIW

 

[TJ73]

I am not interested in 20s. I've had my share of blow outs and bent rims with ultra low profile tires - not worth the trouble.
I may upgrade to 19s after I wear out the 18" tires. The cost delta is much lower in this scenario.

 

[mdh]

I am wondering if the Tesla OEM 19 wheels are compatible with the OEM Model 3 red performance brakes?