-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Kermee
It's Not Easy Being Green
I finally have a reason to "upgrade" my 18+ year-old, May 2000, Valentine One, once the BlendMount Mirror mount is released. Will probably do the 12V tap from VCLEFT instead of the mirror and probably throw in a 12VDC to 5V USB buck converter for an el cheapo Anker Dash Cam C1 Pro. Switched 12VDC is fine for me. I don't need the dash cam to be recording when the car is off.
I considered this but instead I just got a USB - 12V cigarette type adapter from Amazon. I'll use one of the 2 front USB ports.
lairdb
Member
Yes.
See particularly Jon Osborne's videos (Radar Detector wiring options) for dash and A pillar hints; also one other guy I can't think of at the moment. (Search around a bit for A pillar, footwell disassembly, etc. There's also a third guy who has done several videos that seem to be entirely focused on removing interior panels -- try searching on "remove trunk liner tesla model 3" on youtube.)
Watch @Ingineer's related videos thoroughly.
The dashcam folks are the ones who have done most of the complex routing and panel removal, so search on that more than on radar. There's probably slightly more substance to be found on M3OC than on TMC; maybe 60/40. Search both.
Some threads:
Radar Detector wiring options
Model 3 Radar Detector Hardwire
Here's how to safely tap 12v power for add-ons
BlendMount Radar Detector Mount in the Model 3?
Dashcam Install Help
Dashcam Install Help
For those looking for a Blendmount and want a bit of a discount, you can use my referral link to receive 12.5% off! Share via FB also gets you $5 off (click the link in the product page)
BlendMount | J28 Design Inc. - Friend Offer
BlendMount | J28 Design Inc. - Friend Offer
ProphetM
Member
Sure: don't speed. It costs less than a speeding ticket or a radar detector.
2nd solution, also cheaper: speed less than everyone else is speeding.
Okay - setting it to chill mode.Sure: don't speed. It costs less than a speeding ticket or a radar detector.
2nd solution, also cheaper: speed less than everyone else is speeding.
Just adding to this thread for other readers who may search for this in the future - newer Model 3's (mine has a June '19 Build date) have the spare connector in the driver kick panel already used (referenced by Ingineer's videos). This actually makes the job easier as you can now just tap into the thick red wire that now leads down with the rest of the wiring bundle along the jamb. It's the thickest wire in the bunch and is red - hard to miss. No more need to take out the air bag or contort your body to reach behind blindly. Just Posi-tap (or whatever your preferred tapping method is) right into that wire for 12V and use the bolt right next to the bundle for ground.
As mentioned elsewhere, this is a pretty aggressive switch - it powers on when the display goes on, powers off once the driver gets out of the seat. Sentry mode or cabin overheat protection do not change this behavior.
As mentioned elsewhere, this is a pretty aggressive switch - it powers on when the display goes on, powers off once the driver gets out of the seat. Sentry mode or cabin overheat protection do not change this behavior.
ModelNforNerd
Active Member
Mine too. You just have to be quick with the brakes (and check your rear) because they'll usually hit you a second time.
ModelNforNerd
Active Member
Had one a few years ago, when I was still in my Audi, but right after buying the V1.
I had never heard the Laser chime before....driving along at 80 in a 65 (not as uncommon as you'd think in MA). Looked all around and saw a cop standing next to his cruiser talking into his shoulder mic.
They had set up their speed trap improperly. The chase car that was supposed to pull me over was set up AFTER the next exit ramp.
So yea...I just scooted off, looked down on him from the overpass above, and took the side streets home that day.
XLR82XS
D M C
Regarding Radar Detectors:
This is from what I read a while ago so some may claim it is out of date.
I use a radar/ lidar detector to get a hint that there is surveillance activity ahead or behind. Also if cruising around and I don't technically come to a 100 percent stop at each and every light in an area where the cops make good money for the town. I jenerally don't speed 10 mph over the limit....I follow the traffic patterns and speed. But the cops may need just one more ticket to make their quota. I don't want it to be me.
However , if they are not sampling and you are the pidgeon (the one out ahead) they will tag you .....surprise surprise.... lock on and read your speed before you lift up off the pedal or tap the brake. Good luck with that.
Special Note: Even if they don't have any electronic surveillance equipment, or if theirs is not calibrated etc...they can still write you up for unsafe driving. Good luck with that. Time and $ and still a mandatory NYS surcharge.
LIdar: they aim for headlights . Parabolic reflector gives them a good instant return. They also aim for the license plate....reflective coating helps them as well. There is no jamming (illegal or otherwise) equipment, license plate cover...stealth coating....secret handshake or worry beads that will stop them from getting a hit on your speed before you can react. Anyone who claims to have the magic pill for this is pulling your detector.
And remember....special note above applies to this as well.
At the end of the day, I am very happy there are cops out there risking their lives to sweep through the population of generally poor drivers. The idiot they take off the road may just be the idiot who would have caused an accident.
Get pulled over? First thing out of your mouth should be "Thank you for doing a dangerous job to keep idiots like me from killing themselves." Don't forget to say : "But PPPLLLLEEEAAASSSEEE dont give me a ticket."
This is from what I read a while ago so some may claim it is out of date.
I use a radar/ lidar detector to get a hint that there is surveillance activity ahead or behind. Also if cruising around and I don't technically come to a 100 percent stop at each and every light in an area where the cops make good money for the town. I jenerally don't speed 10 mph over the limit....I follow the traffic patterns and speed. But the cops may need just one more ticket to make their quota. I don't want it to be me.
However , if they are not sampling and you are the pidgeon (the one out ahead) they will tag you .....surprise surprise.... lock on and read your speed before you lift up off the pedal or tap the brake. Good luck with that.
Special Note: Even if they don't have any electronic surveillance equipment, or if theirs is not calibrated etc...they can still write you up for unsafe driving. Good luck with that. Time and $ and still a mandatory NYS surcharge.
LIdar: they aim for headlights . Parabolic reflector gives them a good instant return. They also aim for the license plate....reflective coating helps them as well. There is no jamming (illegal or otherwise) equipment, license plate cover...stealth coating....secret handshake or worry beads that will stop them from getting a hit on your speed before you can react. Anyone who claims to have the magic pill for this is pulling your detector.
And remember....special note above applies to this as well.
At the end of the day, I am very happy there are cops out there risking their lives to sweep through the population of generally poor drivers. The idiot they take off the road may just be the idiot who would have caused an accident.
Get pulled over? First thing out of your mouth should be "Thank you for doing a dangerous job to keep idiots like me from killing themselves." Don't forget to say : "But PPPLLLLEEEAAASSSEEE dont give me a ticket."
For owners of newer Model 3, it’s worth while checking this video
Everything about hardwiring radar Detector in Model 3
Everything about hardwiring radar Detector in Model 3
Similar threads
