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Sorry about the typo on my post but it should read 39 to 40 psi, I have been running 42, at times before I adjust air it gets down to 40 psi and after measuring my tread I am still slightly lower (not by very much) in the center which suggests to me a slight over inflation condition, I have run a lot of my 17k plus miles loaded down with extra people and or luggage but most is with 1 or 2 people in t he car.
Oop! I see you've corrected this to 39-40, so I won't mention that 45 is in the middle there...Just from my limited experience, with the 19" stock Continental tire you would have to run approx. 39 to 49 psi. to get even tread wear across the tire, running at 45 psi. would wear out the center section early due to over inflation unless you carried the max load everywhere you went.
On all my other cars I would just adjust tire pressures to get even wear across the tread, not sure how you are not wearing out the center faster with those high pressures?Oop! I see you've corrected this to 39-40, so I won't mention that 45 is in the middle there...
For about 300,000 miles of driving, I have inflated my tires to *at least* the max side-wall rating for my EVs (done totally for range). And of course I've worn out many sets of tires in that time. And not ONCE did the center wear faster than the edges. I do hear about this issue of running reasonably high pressure, but I've not yet experienced it.
Oop! I see you've corrected this to 39-40, so I won't mention that 45 is in the middle there...
For about 300,000 miles of driving, I have inflated my tires to *at least* the max side-wall rating for my EVs (done totally for range). And of course I've worn out many sets of tires in that time. And not ONCE did the center wear faster than the edges. I do hear about this issue of running reasonably high pressure, but I've not yet experienced it.
If there's something wrong with voip-ninja's sensors, then all of as who live at altitude have the same defective sensors. StealthP3D is wrong about the sensors.Ok! Mysterious. I do wonder if something is wrong with @voip-ninja 's sensors then. Intriguing; it's nearly as interesting as vampire drain.
FWIW, I run 45PSI cold in my PS4S. I get 270Wh/mi driving efficiency on my daily 20-mi roundtrip commute (500 feet net elevation gain on the way home, about 800 ft cumulative), and the expected wall-to-wheel efficiency of 380Wh/mi, for that same 270Wh/mi driving efficiency (40Wh/mi charging losses, 70Wh/mi standby losses (which breaks down into 10 Wh/mi charging loss, 60Wh/mi from battery)). Sweet. When I went from 42 to 45PSI in my crappy 20" wheels, perhaps the efficiency improved a bit, but at most 10-15Wh/mi. One of these days I should do a careful controlled experiment I suppose.
The bolded part is incorrect. Any tire will tend to wear out more in the center at higher inflation pressures, but there are a number of factors that can override this such as wheel width, tire design, driving style, and various other factors.That's more of a problem with cheap tires that don't have good structure. I wouldn't be surprised if oil companies PR departments don't slyly try to amplify this rather minor risk. Because they make a lot more money if everyone and their brother is so afraid of center treadwear that they are all running 4-6 PSI below the most efficient pressure. It takes a lot of oil to make tires and they last too long when properly inflated! Not to mention the way it makes cars drink more gas.
The bolded part is incorrect. Any tire will tend to wear out more in the center at higher inflation pressures, but there are a number of factors that can override this such as wheel width, tire design, driving style, and various other factors.
So yes @StealthP3D appears to be wrong (though this is a relatively small change to draw a conclusion).
Same, the TMPS is just there to warn me about needing to check air pressure after 2 or 3 months or in case of a leak it is handy but my gauge is what I go by.I pay very little attention to the TMPS readings since my gauge is more accurate.
Same, the TMPS is just there to warn me about needing to check air pressure after 2 or 3 months or in case of a leak it is handy but my gauge is what I go by.
Correct. The low tire pressure warning kicks on at 38 PSI in my car. If I inflate my tires to the 42 PSI it says on the door placard, the TPMS system shows 39 PSI. All it takes a particularly cold day, or just slightly underinflating one of the tires, to hit 38 PSI and trigger the warning. As a result, I inflate my tires to 45 PSI.Yeah the TPMS is great for those of us at sea level. Unfortunately does not work for those at elevation (if they want properly inflated tires) until Tesla gives them an option to widen the warning limits. And it is kind of annoying having incorrect readings of the relevant variable. No one cares about absolute pressure minus 14.7PSI. They care about the pressure on the inside of the tire relative to the pressure on the outside.
Correct. The low tire pressure warning kicks on at 38 PSI in my car. If I inflate my tires to the 42 PSI it says on the door placard, the TPMS system shows 39 PSI. All it takes a particularly cold day, or just slightly underinflating one of the tires, to hit 38 PSI and trigger the warning. As a result, I inflate my tires to 45 PSI.
Correct. The low tire pressure warning kicks on at 38 PSI in my car. If I inflate my tires to the 42 PSI it says on the door placard, the TPMS system shows 39 PSI. All it takes a particularly cold day, or just slightly underinflating one of the tires, to hit 38 PSI and trigger the warning. As a result, I inflate my tires to 45 PSI.
Checked three of my cars with TPMS. I guess I see what you are saying about the separate gap on the outside of the valve stem, but one of my cars with TPMS just has a regular looking rubber valve stem (the Chevy Spark EV). Only the metal stems have the outer gap; I suspect it is a feature of how those metal stems are assembled. It seems like that other gap could get filled with junk too, submerged in water, etc. I really can’t see it as a path to the inside pressure, separated only by a differential sensing element that would allow water/moisture ingress into the sensing cavity - and an easy leak path if the extremely fragile MEMS membrane were damaged. But who knows?
Seems easier to just make a MEMS membrane, make it hermetically sealed behind the membrane, and then just calibrate it at the factory to read absolute pressure accurately.
Someone who has worked in a tire shop could probably set the record straight easily.
So you're running 42-43 PSI. Why do you run it so low? Do you have tires I'm not familiar with? In my experience, manufacturers recommended PSI is generally around 5-10 too low for performance, tread life and range. Tesla's original recommendation was 44 or 45 PSI (I forget). I would run at least that much.