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Model S - HPWC (High Power Wall Connector)

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This, my OA specifically showed me this on my test drive with the UMC.

I went with a 8' HPWC for a couple of reasons.

1) Insurance; I know my wife isn't going to throw the UMC into the trunk every morning and we wanted the UMC in the trunk as a just in case. UMC = $500. HPWC = $500. Wiring needed to be run either way so it was even.
2) Future proofing in case we purchased a 2nd Tesla, a 2nd HPWC would give us an energy management system for charging vs the UMC.
3) Safety, I have a little one and a HPWC being wired in vs a plug was just a little extra peace of mind. They don't make outlet covers for the NEMA huh?? ;)
4) It's a more organized installation for the garage which makes the cable more manageable or as my wife says "prettier"

And lastly I'm just justifying my purchase - the charging rates were slightly higher with the HPWC even without the upgraded charging.
I was referring specifically to pressing the button on the handle to open the charge port.

Otherwise I have no issues with your rationale for purchasing the HPWC. I currently use a UMC at home but plan to update to HPWC for many of the same reasons.
 
This, my OA specifically showed me this on my test drive with the UMC.

I went with a 8' HPWC for a couple of reasons.

1) Insurance; I know my wife isn't going to throw the UMC into the trunk every morning and we wanted the UMC in the trunk as a just in case. UMC = $500. HPWC = $500. Wiring needed to be run either way so it was even.
2) Future proofing in case we purchased a 2nd Tesla, a 2nd HPWC would give us an energy management system for charging vs the UMC.
3) Safety, I have a little one and a HPWC being wired in vs a plug was just a little extra peace of mind. They don't make outlet covers for the NEMA huh?? ;)
4) It's a more organized installation for the garage which makes the cable more manageable or as my wife says "prettier"

And lastly I'm just justifying my purchase - the charging rates were slightly higher with the HPWC even without the upgraded charging.
I agree with the first two reasons. For 3, you don't have to mount the 14-50 outlet where a child would be able to access it. Mine are installed at about 5'8" off the ground. Having them mounted higher up also makes cable organization very easy.

I had my 14-50 installed before the load balanced HPWC came out and the price was reduced. Now that they are cheaper, I'd consider the HPWC route but the UMCs that we use work fine for our current needs. If we get a third Tesla, I'll probably change at least one outlet to use an HPWC.

One benefit of the UMC is that they are not hardwired. If the HPWC goes on the fritz, you could potentially be stuck without a way to charge quickly until you can have it serviced. With a UMC, you can easily unplug it and try a different one.
 
I was referring specifically to pressing the button on the handle to open the charge port.

I know, I was agreeing with you. My OA showed me with a UMC that the charge port pops open.

I agree with the first two reasons. For 3, you don't have to mount the 14-50 outlet where a child would be able to access it. Mine are installed at about 5'8" off the ground. Having them mounted higher up also makes cable organization very easy.

With a UMC, you can easily unplug it and try a different one.

Good points, I didn't even think about installing higher as an option.
 
One benefit of the UMC is that they are not hardwired. If the HPWC goes on the fritz, you could potentially be stuck without a way to charge quickly until you can have it serviced. With a UMC, you can easily unplug it and try a different one.

For someone contemplating a new installation, it probably wouldn't be much more expensive to add a NEMA 14-50 outlet to the HPWC installation, for emergency use should the HPWC ever stop working. That's the setup I have now, and the extra cost was definitely worth the peace of mind that it provides.
 
Interesting events at home this morning. We get only a handful of days near freezing where I live -- today's low was 33ºF and the almanac for a nearby weather station going back 17 years shows a record low of 30ºF and average low of 40ºF. A nearby flats weather station showed a low of 28ºF, but I think up here it was only freezing, not much below. Definitely frost covering almost everything, especially vegetation (grass, etc.) -- it made our cat curious (somehow he seems fine walking out there!).

Attachments:
  • 8:04AM picture of error message "Charge Speed Reduced (Bad Wiring)"
  • 8:08AM video showing voltage drop when amps increases
  • 8:13AM video showing voltage drop when amps increases
  • TeslaFi spreadsheet for 3:09AM to 8:40AM

Some time between ~5AM and 7:10AM I awoke to being extremely cold, because the heater output where I was sleeping wasn't enough to overcome the weather, so I had to find a separate circuit to put another heater on. But, it's the same side leg of the phase, so at that point I went from drawing 1500 watts to 3000 watts on the same leg. During this time, my car was charging.

I post the TeslaFi output for the first long charge started at 3:09AM which later has the pilot current drop. Notice that at 5:09AM, charger_current, battery_current, charger_actual_current all almost, with a voltage drop from ~231 to ~225 at the same time, then at 6:29AM the pilot current drops. This is the charge I originally got an error message, and started taking a picture and a few videos.

Before posting the pictures and videos, I'll describe the new wiring a bit: the electrician put in 1" EMT piping (he wanted to use flex but I said use metal) for a run of about 40 feet from the main panel to the location of the HPWC (High Power Wall Connector) where I would have put 1.5" EMT or IMC/Rigid, and then ran some pretty thick copper THHN-like wires in them that look like something around 2AWG to 4AWG, but I can't tell because I can't read any writing on the skin. It looked crazy hard to pull. I don't know why anybody would use 1" for that. The skin got all chewed up for all 3 wires (2 hot and 1 ground (smaller ground)) -- someone pulling it must have gone over some chew edge and not fed it properly into the tube. I'd like to see if this circuit would pass a high voltage test for broken insulation. Does anybody know how to find an electrician that can do that? I insisted the circuit be wired for enough capacity for 100 amps breaker, so that's what was installed: a 100 amp breaker in the main, and a small subpanel by the HPWC with a 100 amp breaker to serve as a "disconnect".

The HPWC is the latest 24 foot cable type. So, the total circuit length is around 70 feet main service panel to car.

The neighborhood was build around 1960. On the half mile road through some woods up from the main road to our neighborhood there are above-ground wires from PG&E to us. About a month ago, while installing a new drop for a some home around there, PG&E noticed a dangling high voltage wire on a failed switch (the switches were installed a few decades ago and have always caused a lot of problems, lots of power outages). So, the crew stayed overtime (double shift) and proceeded to remove both the switches and the booster transformer that was attached. They told me the booster was an old setup to boost the voltage for our area. We used to get good spot-on voltage in our neighborhood, and I never understood what all the voltage complaining was about from other neighborhoods, until now. Now, our voltage is on the low side. I don't know if that factors in.

When our solar panels were installed, we had the house main service panel replaced and a new subpanel put in where the main service panel used to be and the main service panel moved to where the meter is (what I consider an odd setup: the main service panel where the meter is, but the electrician insisted that's what they require now). I wanted our panel replaced because our Federal Pacific was jambed full of circuits, completely full, and had served its life, and I heard Federal Pacifics are prone to problems (we rarely had any, and only a few minor problems, possibly only 1 related to the panel (a squishy breaker for the dryer causing dryer failures), in the last decade of over half a century of use). At the same time, I had the PG&E service upgraded to 200 amps. PG&E came out with a two man crew, took down the wire coming from the poles, put up a new mast with larger wires in it, and then put back the same wire coming from the poles (that we've had for 55 years). They're in free air, so obviously they can hold a lot of current, but it's just another data point.

Here's my first picture at 8:04AM, showing error message "Charge Speed Reduced (Bad Wiring)" (it is hard wired by an electrician, so not an Extension Cord):

IMG_5334.JPG


My first video (shorter) at 8:08AM showing voltage drop when amps increases:


Here's my second video (long) at 8:13AM showing voltage drop when amps increases:


My TeslaFi spreadsheet for the charge (edited for formatting and highlighting in Apple Mac's Numbers and output to PDF): see PDF attachment (listed below in Firefox):
 

Attachments

  • 000,010 20161218T0315 Mithrandir Charge.pdf
    295.3 KB · Views: 51
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Ahh. The thing I'm most interested in gets the least response. (Reminds me of when I was interested in electric cars in the 1980s-1990s and everyone told me I was crazy.) oh well ...

Now that the inspector has come and gone (passed), I'm thinking of going in there myself and replacing the 1" EMT with 1.5" or even 2" EMT and bigger wires, as big as I can afford and close to the most sensible paranoid size I can think of. I can pull them with due care and caution, so they don't tear like the electrician did. That makes me want to use 2" conduit. And lots of wire conduit pulling lube. And build a rope pully system (I don't trust helpers). I always deburr everything baby smooth. Clean sweeps, no ripples, less than 360° cumulative turns, even less than 270° just because it's easier and better.
 
I am experiencing an issue with our HPWC which was new in September.

I set the car to charge at 8am, and was surprised this morning to find the car in "Starting to charge" mode, and both the charge port latch and the HPWC relay constantly cycling every second to try to activate the charge. It had probably been doing this for about 2 hours.

I noticed this one other time I plugged in, and re-seating the connector seemed to fix the issue. I'm hesitant to use this feature again, because I doubt that cycling every second is healthy for the charge port, but it would be useful for me to help warm the battery in cold weather. Has anyone else experienced this issue?
 
For someone contemplating a new installation, it probably wouldn't be much more expensive to add a NEMA 14-50 outlet to the HPWC installation, for emergency use should the HPWC ever stop working. That's the setup I have now, and the extra cost was definitely worth the peace of mind that it provides.
That's exactly what I did when I installed my HPWC. The electrician is already here doing the work for the HPWC...what's one more outlet for peace of mind or future proofing?
 
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Ebay has "Gen 2.5" HPWC's for sale. Does anyone know what changed from gen 2?

This ...TESLA PN: 1050067-01-E Tesla High Power Wall Connector charger 24" Gen 2.5 MODEL S X | eBay

Redesigned in Spring 2016, the new Wall Connector is hardwired directly into your electrical system, and is designed for 208-240 volt power supplies. Highlights of the Wall Connector include:
  • Customizable power levels, allowing installations with almost any electrical system
  • Power sharing: Install up to four (4) Wall Connectors on a single circuit breaker
  • Designed for indoor or outdoor installation
  • The 24’ length Wall Connector is recommended for maximum flexibility in parking locations
For Model S or Model X equipped with the standard on-board charger (48A), install the Wall Connector with a 60 amp circuit breaker for optimal charging. For vehicles with a High Amperage charger upgrade (72A) install Wall Connector with a 90 amp circuit breaker. For power sharing with more than one Tesla, install with as much power as possible, up to 100 amps.
 
That's exactly what I did when I installed my HPWC. The electrician is already here doing the work for the HPWC...what's one more outlet for peace of mind or future proofing?
Can you expound a little on what was involved to have this done? I have #2 wire ran for L1&L2 and #4 for ground from a 100amp breaker to my garage for the HPWC but how would I also install the 14-50? Do you have pictures of your install?
 
MS90D coming in Feb or early March. Yay. The online manual for the wall charger linked from mytesla account walks through dip switch settings for diff source current capacities. 48 amp draw on a 60 amp breaker is not an option. And yet other Tesla material asserts that's the right circuit to plan. What am I missing?
 
MS90D coming in Feb or early March. Yay. The online manual for the wall charger linked from mytesla account walks through dip switch settings for diff source current capacities. 48 amp draw on a 60 amp breaker is not an option. And yet other Tesla material asserts that's the right circuit to plan. What am I missing?
You're probably looking at the older version of the HPWC. For some reason both old and new HPWC manuals are listed, at least in my MyTesla account even though I only purchased one HPWC (the current version)

The manual for the current HPWC is here:
 
You're probably looking at the older version of the HPWC. For some reason both old and new HPWC manuals are listed, at least in my MyTesla account even though I only purchased one HPWC (the current version)

The manual for the current HPWC is here:
Yep. I noticed both are listed as well. I tried looking on my page and found the old link initially: Wall Connector Install Guide (80A - 12A)
If I'd kept looking, I would've seen the manual for the new WC down at the bottom.
 
Ah yes. Labeled as "... with side dock install...". So I never clicked it. Thanks much. All nice and modern.

Part 2. So I was standing in the garage looking at the right spot to lay in the 60 amp circuit and contemplating the ugly job of getting to the existing panel from there. I noted an 8" x 8" steel cover just below this spot. Always wondered what this was so I pull this cover and find a cold 100 amp 240V cable dead ending in an otherwise unused terminal block. Huh? A bit of sleuthing and I find it already home runs back into the panel. Unconnected in there so needs a breaker, and yes the panel has load capacity. We built the house 16 years ago and wife was here every day working the subcontractors. She now tells me: "yup, I thought we might need big power over there someday, didn't know for what, and it was trivial during construction." So, ugly expensive job just turned lightweight. Best wife ever.
 
She now tells me: "yup, I thought we might need big power over there someday, didn't know for what, and it was trivial during construction." So, ugly expensive job just turned lightweight. Best wife ever.

You say that now. But what would you be saying if you had completed the ugly, expensive job and she then came out to the garage and said, "What the heck did you do all that for? I had a cable installed 'just in case' sixteen years ago!"
 
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