I have no car experience on track, just 2 wheel club racing. Lightweight twins class with a Suzuki SV650 is a far better experience and learning platform than a liter bike. 1000cc great for the street, way too much on the track for mere mortals.
Impossible to get a newbie to understand that. Everyone thinks they’re Superman until their first day out when they are out of breath on lap 1 and same lap time as a 250 Ninja. I imagine cars are similar which is why I mentioned Miata.
Modified Plaid will be a thing for some just like a Ducati Panigale. Difficult to get anywhere near its potential and expensive as hell to operate.
Miata on a full size track fits only very patient people who don't mind reading a phone between turns.
But Plaid is not good for the dual purpose car, I believe. It's too big, too heavy, too soft and too unbalanced on power vs brakes. It's just a proper Gran Turismo car - fast on a highway, comfortable, spacious. Roadster should become ultimate dual use for small family with money. Model 3 RS (or even Model 2 RS) for a full size one. And with enough skills and money literally anything could be built to be a fast track car.
None of the Tesla's built like a Porsche - that with a small changes of tires, pads and alignment you can beat them until the tank is empty. I hope they would recognize a demand for such cars eventually, but, business wise that won't happen before they will satisfy all higher demand customers, so it's years and years of waiting. In the meantime, m3p is a good platform with a need for a firmware update to use actual temperatures instead of predicted ones.
And returning to rotors subject - airflow doesn't matter. What matters is actual heat capacity to survive a single high speed full torque braking and heat dissipation power comparable to average motor power. Weight doesn't matter actually. Lower air resistance makes things worse. Better corner traction makes things easier.
When rotor is hotter it dissipates heat faster. On a stand it's possible to model heat dissipation vs temperature and check that at required power it won't be so hot that it would boil fluid or melt pads before battery is empty. I have a feeling most brake kit developers aren't bothering with doing actual r&d for the specific car.
At the same time, my gut feeling tells me that it's not even remotely possible to not overheat any Plaid brakes with natural air cooling. It's 4 times higher average power of m3p and I overheat 400x36 Brembo CCB on m3p before I overheat battery or tires. Iron rotors same size would do better, but not too much. And 420mm won't dissipate significantly more anyway. Certainly, I'm braking too much, because I'm not good enough and don't feather them, but with a proper setup it shouldn't matter.
Before on EVO race car that was 3x less average power we had to use 4" diameter front air ducts. And it was massively dumping speed to air. 3x higher power needs 3x higher heat dissipation power and regen is not much of the help. Making car lighter can help brakes with ducts - because higher average speed of air. Better aero also helps - more dumping heat to the air and higher corner speed.
