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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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Hmm, yes, actually. Lots and lots of various kinds. I don't recall that thread, though. Thanks for mentioning it, here it is: an important note about the key fob and RF interference.

Yes, the top of Mt Soledad does look a bit like that...

An update. The tech when he remote unlocked the car said that he'd pushed an update. But when I was contacted today, about 24 hours later, there was still no update. Anyway, this caused a bit of a flurry of activity, because Tesla seemed to think that the update had happened! Anyway, I moved the car to the top of our parking structure and they pushed it again and it finally updated to .42. It took somewhat more than an hour... I was stuck in a meeting so I don't know exactly.

Those still on 1.15.14 might want to check what Tesla thinks they are on.
 
While I have no insight into the rest of your mystery, you might want to consider setting the maximum amount the hatch will open to avoid scratches while you're sorting out the cause. Just manually open the hatch to the highest you deem safe, and then press and hold the close button until a long beep signals the new setting.


You don't have to do it "manually". Just press the button to open and then press the button again at desired height and it will stop. You are correct about then holding down the button to set that as your new height :)

how do u open the trunk manually? I guess I just never tried....
 
yes, after posting i did more research and saw those posts. I went back out to do tests and I can confirm this happens if you are in reverse, with seat belt off and lift yourself a bit off the seat to reverse, the car shifts into N and then immediately into P.

Is it confirmed that this only happens with the seatbelt off? In that case it's not a problem for me. I have been known to lift my butt off the seat when reversing, but I don't take my seatbelt off. (I'm tiny; the seatbelt is never *that* snug around me.)

- - - Updated - - -

As software developer, I admit that I really don't understand Tesla's update policy. I can understand that you want to beta test a release on a small sample of cars to make sure there are no disasters, but once you are comfortable, why would you not roll out the latest update to everyone all at once?
Honestly, I'm not sure they're comfortable with any of their releases yet. :-/
 
I got 4.2 over the weekend, and now I'm having all sorts of problems all of a sudden. The rear driver-side door handle isn't always coming out with the rest, my door popped open while I was walking away from the car, I keep hearing the charge port clicking when it's not plugged in and I'm walking away from the car....
:-(

i'd try a soft reset of both systems and see if that doesn't clear things up. sounds like a little corruption.
 
See my explanation above. If you're reading this, I assume you already have. In short, it's not for someone flying out the driver's door, but flying forward out of your seat in case you press the wrong pedal!

Given the experiences reported here, even if that was the intention of this behavior, it seems clear that it is causing other, false alarm behavior much more often than it is saving somebody from a rather unusual/unlikely scenario.
 
I got 4.2 over the weekend, and now I'm having all sorts of problems all of a sudden. The rear driver-side door handle isn't always coming out with the rest, my door popped open while I was walking away from the car, I keep hearing the charge port clicking when it's not plugged in and I'm walking away from the car....
:-(

Since getting firmware 4.2 I sometimes get this bug where the charge port door will pop open when I press on the brake pedal to start the car.
Sucks. I have to get out of the car, go close the charge port door, then get back in the car. Luckily doesn't happen every time, probably around 10% of the time or so.
 
Wanted to add a design flaw that I have not seen reported yet. It has to do with the rear seat seatbelts. The belts come out from a roller. The roller mechanism is placed in such a way that if you pull the seatbelt in a direction perpendicular to the roller the seat belt comes out smoothly. Unfortunately, the way it is positioned, this means pulling the belt almost against the seat and almost horizontally. When you are sitting down this is not a natural motion and you want to pull away from the pillar and a little towards the floor so that you can bring the belt across your chest (not across your head). Pulling it in the direction it should be pulled causes excess friction between the belt and the edge of the rolling mechanism and this will certainly fray the belt over time (not to mention makes it very hard to pull). This is hard to explain in words but if you sit in the back and try to put on a belt with a natural motion, you will see there is resistance.
 
Not sure if this is the best place to post this, so please advise if not.
I have the Blue exterior P85 with paint armor.
One thing that has bugged the heck out of me since I got it (mid-Dec.) is that it looks like there are two different paint jobs on the hood.
In most lighting it is very noticeable where the hood is covered with the paint armor and and where it isn't.
The area covered by the paint armor is very shiny/glossy. The rest of the hood has a very dull look in comparison.
A lot of people have noticed it and commented. As I recall there has been a lot of discussion about the paint armor on here and whether the edge was very noticeable, and as I recall most people seemed to think it is most visible on the white cars, but less so on the dark ones. The edge of the armor on the hood is very noticeable, but that doesn't bother me nearly as much as that the paint color mismatch seems so apparent.
I even showed it to my service tech and he agreed, but offered no solution. I don't notice such appearance distinction with any of the other armored locations on the car.
Yesterday I stopped by a high end body repair shop and they showed me a black Porsche that they had just done extensive front end repair to and had also replaced the clear bra (armor) to the front of the hood.
It was really difficult to even see the armor at all. I saw NO difference in the color appearance of the paint under the armor vs. the rest of the hood. It really looked completely natural unless you looked REALLY close and then you could see the edging. I'm especially curious if others with the dark blue paint and paint armor are experiencing this issue.
 
Not sure if this is the best place to post this, so please advise if not.
I have the Blue exterior P85 with paint armor.
One thing that has bugged the heck out of me since I got it (mid-Dec.) is that it looks like there are two different paint jobs on the hood.
In most lighting it is very noticeable where the hood is covered with the paint armor and and where it isn't.
The area covered by the paint armor is very shiny/glossy. The rest of the hood has a very dull look in comparison.
A lot of people have noticed it and commented. As I recall there has been a lot of discussion about the paint armor on here and whether the edge was very noticeable, and as I recall most people seemed to think it is most visible on the white cars, but less so on the dark ones. The edge of the armor on the hood is very noticeable, but that doesn't bother me nearly as much as that the paint color mismatch seems so apparent.
I even showed it to my service tech and he agreed, but offered no solution. I don't notice such appearance distinction with any of the other armored locations on the car.
Yesterday I stopped by a high end body repair shop and they showed me a black Porsche that they had just done extensive front end repair to and had also replaced the clear bra (armor) to the front of the hood.
It was really difficult to even see the armor at all. I saw NO difference in the color appearance of the paint under the armor vs. the rest of the hood. It really looked completely natural unless you looked REALLY close and then you could see the edging. I'm especially curious if others with the dark blue paint and paint armor are experiencing this issue.

I had the entire hood redone right after I got the car with the same film on the rest of the car (Avery Nano Fusion film) and it looks nice. Cost about $500 though.
 
Wanted to add a design flaw that I have not seen reported yet. It has to do with the rear seat seatbelts. The belts come out from a roller. The roller mechanism is placed in such a way that if you pull the seatbelt in a direction perpendicular to the roller the seat belt comes out smoothly. Unfortunately, the way it is positioned, this means pulling the belt almost against the seat and almost horizontally. When you are sitting down this is not a natural motion and you want to pull away from the pillar and a little towards the floor so that you can bring the belt across your chest (not across your head). Pulling it in the direction it should be pulled causes excess friction between the belt and the edge of the rolling mechanism and this will certainly fray the belt over time (not to mention makes it very hard to pull). This is hard to explain in words but if you sit in the back and try to put on a belt with a natural motion, you will see there is resistance.
I've noticed the same thing.... I'm thinking about getting some kind of clear leading edge tape or teflon tape and stick it to the edge where it's catching.... they should have caught that...
 
I would love to find out how to do this. My local Service department seems unwilling to resolve this for me.

How to adjust headlight height:

Pop off the long black plastic pieces on either side of the frunk (they just lift off - push down on the rubber circles on either side to get them through the holes). They need to be pulled away from the frunk as to the side of the car they have a lip that goes under the frunk edge. (Trust me, if I can do this as mechanically uninclined as I am, so can you). Important: leave them off until you're fully satisfied with your headlight height, including through a test drive.

Underneath that, about a third of the way up the hood on both sides of the car (near the outer edge, under the lip), is a white plastic socket that is designed for a 6mm allen wrench. Insert wrench and turn - one way aims the headlight up (I forget which), the other goes down. You probably want to turn them the same amount on each side, so keep track of it.

I found it very hard while parked to get the headlight height exactly right (small variations in height get magnified with distance and most people - including the Tesla service center in my experience - don't have a perfectly level garage floor). I found the best option was to iterate changing the height with a brief test drive until I was satisfied.

When done, pop the two side pieces back on - putting the lip under the edge of the side of the frunk first and then gently but firmly pushing down on the plastic pieces to lock them in. You need to bend and pull the rubber circle through the hole (reverse of what you did to get them off).

QED
 
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Indeed they should have. If the belts get frayed from the rubbing they better consider that a no charge fix regardless of warranty because its clearly poorly designed.

I had this happen about a year ago with the driver-side seatbelt on my Roadster; it was abraded over time by rough contact with the hard plastic side well, and once the tear got started, it ripped very quickly. Tesla replaced it under warranty. Surprising they didn't improve this design for the Model S.

rippedseatbelt.jpg
 
Driving home today, I was going a steady 40 mph or so and suddenly got a "Car Needs Service, Power reduced" warning. (I'm at 2000 miles on the odometer). Car drove normally, except I had maybe 10% of normal power. Although a power limit dashed line was drawn at about 200 kW, it took about 15 seconds (flooring it)--ok, maybe 10--to get from 0 to 30 mph....clearly way less than 200 kW was available. (I happened to be at the front at a stoplight and was a bit embarassed to accelerate so slowly!)

I drove another 5 minutes to my wife's cousin's house (where I was going to pick up my son) and parked. Immediately called roadside assistance. They pulled my log and identified a fault: Drive inverter. Asked me to reboot the touchscreen. No joy. Asked me to reboot the console. No joy--fault remained. Tesla contacted the Rockville, MD service center and told me I'd hear back momentarily. 10 minutes later, the service center called. They had pulled the logs and said the engineering team in CA is reviewing the data. They advised not driving the car, and initiated flatbed towing services. (Tesla DID offer a rental, which I declined as I have another car I can drive).

45 minutes later, the flatbed driver called and said he'd arrive within minutes. The plan was to tow my car back to my house (10 minutes away), then have a Ranger look at it tomorrow morning. Since the tow truck driver was close--and knowing the car was driveable--I went out to move the car from the driveway to the side of the residential street so it would be easier to load onto the flatbed. And what do you know--no fault. Car seemed to drive perfectly normally, although I didn't try gunning it to see if I had full power back. Roadside assistance advised that, even though the fault was gone, for safety it would be best to tow it home anyway.

Loaded the car onto the flatbed and took it home, where I drove it under it's own power into the garage. Again, car seemed perfectly normal.

I expect to hear back from Tesla in the morning. Either it was a bug/false positive (an unnerving one at that), or I really have an inverter issue. If the former, hopefully they can fix it via software. If the latter, the Ranger will come in the morning to fix, and if needed take it up to the Rockville service center for repair.

A few things:

1. Boo. I'm going to miss driving this car for a day or two!

2. Tesla was pretty good and responsive in helping. I was home within about 2 hours of the initial fault.

3. This has shaken my confidence in the drivetrain, although I suspect this is just an early production glitch and expect these sorts of kinks to be worked out. It's what I signed on for as an early reservation holder.

4. I thought it was so damn cool that Tesla was pulling logs and CA engineers were diagnosing the problem while I was still waiting for a flatbed. Totally cool.

5. The tow truck driver was totally impressed by the cockpit. He took pictures with his smartphone of the car loaded on the truck, and the touchscreen.

I'll report back what I find out tomorrow. Hopefully this is my one major drivetrain issue and it's smooth sailing from here on!