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Model Y ride comfort?

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The front is double wishbone, and the rear is multi-link. These are proven, reliable, solid design attributes. It does allow for design choices.
I'm not feeling chassis flex; in fact the construction seems solid, and the battery pack definitely doesn't flex much. I've raced Porsches, I know about chassis flex.

It's a very heavy vehicle, especially for it's wheelbase. Interestingly, it's 7% heavier, with a similar wheelbase to, the Lexus LS400 I had for many years.
The Lexus had air suspension, which rode extremely well but was expensive to fix when the dampers leaked - $1000 per corner....

As I see it, the MY design choice was for responsive handling, which includes a quick steering ratio.
It does that, but at the cost of ride suppleness.

I've put taller tires on smaller wheels (255/55/18) that have 1" more sidewall than 19" OEM, and gained a fair amount of ride smoothness.
But it still can get unsettled more easily than desired. I don't need a racecar, I need a boulevard cruiser with some spirit in reserve.

I've come to conclude that only replacement springs/dampers are capable of solving that equation.
I'm going to solicit some rides from people who have done the upgrade, then decide upon next steps, if any.
It's not too terrible, but can stand improvement. I still have just 700 miles on it (three weeks old).
Double wishbone is great for camber and multi-link is great for packaging, but the devil is always in the details.
The boominess of the car over road issues, especially in corners, is what makes me say chassis flex. I certainly don't feel the car is well connected to the road on anything but glassy pavement, which I'm rarely on.
I don't feel the car handles responsively, except for the accelerator. The steering ratio is quick, but the car doesn't really respond especially quickly to inputs.
I find the ride on my 2013 FRS is far more livable on bumpy roads. Events are far better damped. It's not as nice on smooth surfaces though, and it's far from a smooth ride. Meanwhile, our Forester is a relative magic carpet ride, despite 90k on the front suspension (rears are recent Bilstein replacements).
My problem with MPP is that they don't give out much information on their products. That makes me think they're not choosing the best parts.
My problem with Unplugged is the price for KW gear. I can live with it. KW isn't always the best, but they're certainly acceptable and, I hope, an improvement over stock.
My problem with Redwood and their Ohlins is the cost. Also, they haven't discussed track testing or anything like that. They're not as adjustable as the competition, but then if the product is good, it shouldn't really need adjustments.
 
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Double wishbone is great for camber and multi-link is great for packaging, but the devil is always in the details.
The boominess of the car over road issues, especially in corners, is what makes me say chassis flex. I certainly don't feel the car is well connected to the road on anything but glassy pavement, which I'm rarely on.
I don't feel the car handles responsively, except for the accelerator. The steering ratio is quick, but the car doesn't really respond especially quickly to inputs.
I find the ride on my 2013 FRS is far more livable on bumpy roads. Events are far better damped. It's not as nice on smooth surfaces though, and it's far from a smooth ride. Meanwhile, our Forester is a relative magic carpet ride, despite 90k on the front suspension (rears are recent Bilstein replacements).
My problem with MPP is that they don't give out much information on their products. That makes me think they're not choosing the best parts.
My problem with Unplugged is the price for KW gear. I can live with it. KW isn't always the best, but they're certainly acceptable and, I hope, an improvement over stock.
My problem with Redwood and their Ohlins is the cost. Also, they haven't discussed track testing or anything like that. They're not as adjustable as the competition, but then if the product is good, it shouldn't really need adjustments.
Not sure what you describe as 'boominess'. I feel there is boominess, but it's a consequence if being a hatchback with a big boombox area in the back.
Cargo covers aftermarket kits or some blankets can help, but not cure, that issue.
I associate boominess in suspension as too stiff, with too much bounce response to bumps and uneven pavement. We've both agreed the dampers/springs are a mismatch.

Handling response on the Gemini 255/45/19 Conti's on my MYLR is good for such a heavy car. I find the steering ratio a touch too quick.
The 255/55/18 BFG's I put on M3 Aero wheels add some mush to response, and take out some suspension bounce, particularly through rain trough - type depressions.

I have zero experience with Subis. My history is BMW, Audi, Porsche, Porsche racing, Lexus, and Chevy Avalanche (a great SUV). I don't do any real off-road.

That said, I do understand suspension development, having done it for 10 years racing Porsche.
Torsion bar vs coilover, swaybars, compression/rebound damper adjustment, tire pressure effects, you name it.

You might be over thinking the suspension component qualities - it's a road application. Any of the components will hold up to the environment of street driving.
All three companies have put in the time and engineering to make a credible solution but are hostage to the partners they've chosen for components.
They're not manufacturers, they're integrators. And they've done it pretty well. There will be more coming; I've spoken directly to one.
All three HAVE discussed track testing. Pretty extensively, but most is more 'time trial' type driving vs racing. "Time Attack' is just a fluffed up title for time trial events.
I'm not interested in dropping the ride height (just exacerbates the issues we're both discussing), and the better solution at stock height is Redwood in that regard.
$750 bucks difference one way or the other over 5 years ownership is minutiae.
 
Not sure what you describe as 'boominess'. I feel there is boominess, but it's a consequence if being a hatchback with a big boombox area in the back.
Cargo covers aftermarket kits or some blankets can help, but not cure, that issue.
I associate boominess in suspension as too stiff, with too much bounce response to bumps and uneven pavement. We've both agreed the dampers/springs are a mismatch.

Handling response on the Gemini 255/45/19 Conti's on my MYLR is good for such a heavy car. I find the steering ratio a touch too quick.
The 255/55/18 BFG's I put on M3 Aero wheels add some mush to response, and take out some suspension bounce, particularly through rain trough - type depressions.

I have zero experience with Subis. My history is BMW, Audi, Porsche, Porsche racing, Lexus, and Chevy Avalanche (a great SUV). I don't do any real off-road.

That said, I do understand suspension development, having done it for 10 years racing Porsche.
Torsion bar vs coilover, swaybars, compression/rebound damper adjustment, tire pressure effects, you name it.

You might be over thinking the suspension component qualities - it's a road application. Any of the components will hold up to the environment of street driving.
All three companies have put in the time and engineering to make a credible solution but are hostage to the partners they've chosen for components.
They're not manufacturers, they're integrators. And they've done it pretty well. There will be more coming; I've spoken directly to one.
All three HAVE discussed track testing. Pretty extensively, but most is more 'time trial' type driving vs racing. "Time Attack' is just a fluffed up title for time trial events.
I'm not interested in dropping the ride height (just exacerbates the issues we're both discussing), and the better solution at stock height is Redwood in that regard.
$750 bucks difference one way or the other over 5 years ownership is minutiae.
By boominess, I mean jolts through the entire car's structure, along with a booming sound. I don't mean on bottoming out the suspension. It happens pretty regularly on a rough road. The body shudders a lot too. Like A LOT.
Ohlins do let you adjust height from the top, which I like. I think it's more like a $1250 difference, plus tax. I'm just not confident it will fix the issues to my satisfaction, and when I asked, they wouldn't offer a test drive.
 
The 22’ MYP I have rides stiff over everything. Feels like a truck, not much absorption of bumps/road. That’s the big thing I notice. Maybe the updated body casting in one piece helps, but until they bring on air suspension, if they ever, that’s the significant difference in ride vs other 65k cars in its class. Car is awesome otherwise.
 
By boominess, I mean jolts through the entire car's structure, along with a booming sound. I don't mean on bottoming out the suspension. It happens pretty regularly on a rough road. The body shudders a lot too. Like A LOT.
Ohlins do let you adjust height from the top, which I like. I think it's more like a $1250 difference, plus tax. I'm just not confident it will fix the issues to my satisfaction, and when I asked, they wouldn't offer a test drive.
there are a few guys on TMC that have them and might be approached for a friendly demo ride. There's one in SoCAL I intend to ask.

I theink the cost differential is down to 750 since everyone seems to be adjusting MSRP lately, but haven't checked today.
 
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The front is double wishbone, and the rear is multi-link. These are proven, reliable, solid design attributes. It does allow for design choices.
I'm not feeling chassis flex; in fact the construction seems solid, and the battery pack definitely doesn't flex much. I've raced Porsches, I know about chassis flex.

It's a very heavy vehicle, especially for it's wheelbase. Interestingly, it's 7% heavier, with a similar wheelbase to, the Lexus LS400 I had for many years.
The Lexus had air suspension, which rode extremely well but was expensive to fix when the dampers leaked - $1000 per corner....

As I see it, the MY design choice was for responsive handling, which includes a quick steering ratio.
It does that, but at the cost of ride suppleness.

I've put taller tires on smaller wheels (255/55/18) that have 1" more sidewall than 19" OEM, and gained a fair amount of ride smoothness.
But it still can get unsettled more easily than desired. I don't need a racecar, I need a boulevard cruiser with some spirit in reserve.

I've come to conclude that only replacement springs/dampers are capable of solving that equation.
I'm going to solicit some rides from people who have done the upgrade, then decide upon next steps, if any.
It's not too terrible, but can stand improvement. I still have just 700 miles on it (three weeks old).
I upgraded to the ohlins, if you want to drive it, i'm in manhattan beach. I finally dialed in a really nice smooth ride for 80% of the time unless the road is just trash.
 
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My problem with MPP is that they don't give out much information on their products. That makes me think they're not choosing the best parts.
My problem with Unplugged is the price for KW gear. I can live with it. KW isn't always the best, but they're certainly acceptable and, I hope, an improvement over stock.
I think you've got these reversed! Our kits are hand-built in Germany by KW Suspensions.
 
The 22’ MYP I have rides stiff over everything. Feels like a truck, not much absorption of bumps/road. That’s the big thing I notice. Maybe the updated body casting in one piece helps, but until they bring on air suspension, if they ever, that’s the significant difference in ride vs other 65k cars in its class. Car is awesome otherwise.
the MY v2.0 chassis (F+R castings, structural battery pack) will likely be stiffer.
But unless the dampers/springs get some refinement, your assessment won't get any different.

In my opinion, Tesla designed for responsive, quick handling, and that's not going to change soon.
Although, looking at my 22 MYLR, there are unused threaded holes suspiciously located where remote damper reservoirs or air components might go.
 
The 22’ MYP I have rides stiff over everything. Feels like a truck, not much absorption of bumps/road. That’s the big thing I notice. Maybe the updated body casting in one piece helps, but until they bring on air suspension, if they ever, that’s the significant difference in ride vs other 65k cars in its class. Car is awesome otherwise.
There's no 'one piece casting'.

The MY has used since early 2021 a single rear casting that replaced about 70 stamped/welded/bonded parts.
The update to v2.0 MY chassis will add a single Front casting that replaces even more steel and aluminum parts.
The whole thing gets tied together with a structural battery pack and stamped steel door frame / side structures.

So it's basically 5 major components to create the chassis and uses 2/3 the robots currently required to assemble it.
Tesla saves time, cost, and builds a better chassis to boot. Lots of incentive to get it done. The only surprise is that it's taken this long.
 
I have no clue why is this even a debate. Its the worst ride ever. Please guys don't sugar coat this. I am (was) a huge Tesla fan and like most of the buyers, bought it online without even test driving it. There is only one way to describe it - you feel like a bobblehead. For some, yes, that maybe acceptable. Like a thrill ride- sporty. But apples to apples, it sucks.
Apples to apples to what?
So I'm a '90s guy who had an Eagle Talon TSI AWD Turbo and a Mitsu 3000gt VR4 but I have no complaints for a car that is as fast to 60 as a Porsche 959 and rides at least as well as those two 90's cars I had and has about 4 billion advantages to those cars. (TLDR: I'm an AWD sports car guy)
Is the ride like my previous BMW's? Yes and no. The 2016 X6 50i had the same ride, almost exactly, which was much more "bobble heady" than my 2013 same model. But it was made up for by the better power, handling and rigidity. (2013 X6 28 way seats were, by the way, the pinnacle of seats in any vehicle, ever, it's a shame the engine's ate themselves every 50k)
Bottom line, I agree, if you are looking for a cushy family ride the MYP IS NOT FOR YOU.
If you are giddy you get to drive a 959 fast car every day with unbelievable technology and zero dino juice, well, it's frickin' awesome.
Also, the recent British Top Gear Review adds to this convo. Skip to 9 mins for handling. Ignore that he doesn't fully understand Teslas.
He agrees the ride could be better:
 
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My wife had a Honda Accord prior to the Model 3 w/ 18" aero wheels. She's had it for 2 years now and has never made a comment about ride quality except that it's amazing.

My previous cars were BMW 3 and 4 series (M4), Lexus GS, Corvette C5/6, and Porsche 911S (991). I also drive a model 3 w/18" wheels and it rides between the BMW and the Lexus. Firm but very comfortable. I've been reading (and watching youtube) about how the Tesla Y is too harsh. I mean guys are spending $3k for coilovers for a better ride.

Well this weekend I went to the dealer and test drove the model Y with the 20" Induction wheels. I took it to the worse part of town where they do all the constructions. After almost an hour of driving around pot holes galore. I was perfectly fine with the Y. It's definitely not that different from my model 3. So not sure what all the complaints are about. If you're concern about the ride just get the Gemini wheels and call it a day. As much as I like the way the Induction wheels look, I'm actually going to get the Gemini and use the $2k for the power boost. Down the road if I like the 20" that much I'll get a set.
Yep …totally agree, get the 19 s. (They look crap , but who cares )…Spend the 2000 on performance boost
 
I had a 2018 Model 3 Stealth on 18”. I found it loud and harsh ride. Handled great though. I switched to a 2019 Raven X with 20” and never looked back. I consistently saw comments on Model Y’s that were similar to how I felt in the Model 3. I went with a friend to pick up his 2022 Model Y LR on 19” just yesterday. Wow, what a huge difference from my Model 3, very respectable road noise and ride. Car looked perfect too. Didn’t drive to assess handling though.
 
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