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OEM TESLA roof racks Crack Glass

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hello Everyone,

Went to install my roof racks OEM Tesla and they cracked the front glass.

I am at a loss for words right now.

How the hell does this even happen. I’m no moron literally hand tightened.

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No torque wrench I was literally snugging up barley tight.
I honestly think... torque wrench might have saved you. I helped install this on a friends car and we had no issues because we used a torque wrench. We also did it a bit looser than what was noted due to fear of breaking the glass. He's had no issues for about 3 months now.

Also your TMC handle is fitting... I think you are too strong for your own good. :p
 
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There is a factory spec for the side to side install of the roof glass. I know this because I'm awaiting a replacement roof for this very reason. An old post of mine from Dec/Jan should have photos.

I got them to check the spacing (which was obviously off, looks a lot like yours) because I said I wasn't going to install a roof rack because I was afraid it would crack. They confirmed it was off center enough to get it replaced. I had been traveling a lot for work so I didn't even get around to doing this until early July.
 
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This is why Thule included an acu-tite tool with my last Thule rack... it’s basically a budget torque wrench. For so much money I am shocked that Tesla doesn’t include something like this considering how unlikely it is most people would understand a crazy low torque specification like 8nm.
Especially when you consider the consequence for error is either a loose roof rack or a broken glass!

It’s a real cop out for Tesla to instruct the user to use a regular Allen key and manually tighten it, then casually add on “by the way 8nm”

I would push that on Tesla. You probably over tightened it, BUT you should ask the person you’re complaining to at tesla “what does 8nm feel like”
A mechanic with repetition would be able to FEEL 8+/- 2nm but not 8+/-1, and certainly not your average joe.
 
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There is a factory spec for the side to side install of the roof glass.

Any idea of what the spec was exactly so that @Musclez can check it himself without taking it to the service center right away? Seems like if it is way off, they would need to replace it and maybe he won't have to pay.

Hard to tell from the picture exactly how far off it is. Inherently the rear piece of glass is a little narrower than the front so checking the alignment vs. the front piece of glass isn't definitive.
 
Your glass panel looks odd. I got my rack last December, and it doesn't come anywhere near touching the glass with the feet (it only rests on the metal). I think if you applied too much torque, you could deform the underlying clip such that it would crack the glass from underneath. But - I used a scale to measure how much torque I applied, and doing my "hand guess" with the Allen key only resulted in 2 Nm. I tightened as high as 4 Nm and found that a distressingly high effort (ie I was concerned at deforming the clip!) so stopped. My rack has been solid the last several months, including a big Thule box from BC to ON and back, plus another trip with both the roof box and a 12' SUP for 2500km.

So either you tightened too much, or there was an pre-existing defect with your car (glass panel placement, or perhaps the underlying clips?)
 
Any idea of what the spec was exactly so that @Musclez can check it himself without taking it to the service center right away? Seems like if it is way off, they would need to replace it and maybe he won't have to pay.

Hard to tell from the picture exactly how far off it is. Inherently the rear piece of glass is a little narrower than the front so checking the alignment vs. the front piece of glass isn't definitive.

My windshield was out of spec against the roof and at the time they told me that the gap specification only allowed for a maximum of 2.5 mm of gap space and mine measured at 3mm so it was replaced.

I'm not sure if different glass panels have different specifications.
 
View attachment 443877 This is why Thule included an acu-tite tool with my last Thule rack... it’s basically a budget torque wrench. For so much money I am shocked that Tesla doesn’t include something like this considering how unlikely it is most people would understand a crazy low torque specification like 8nm.
Especially when you consider the consequence for error is either a loose roof rack or a broken glass!

It’s a real cop out for Tesla to instruct the user to use a regular Allen key and manually tighten it, then casually add on “by the way 8nm”

I would push that on Tesla. You probably over tightened it, BUT you should ask the person you’re complaining to at tesla “what does 8nm feel like”
A mechanic with repetition would be able to FEEL 8+/- 2nm but not 8+/-1, and certainly not your average joe.

8nm is actually quite a bit but yes when doing things like this proper torque is essential. Decent torque wrenches are $50-$100 and you will have it for a lifetime.
 
there was a thread on the other forum that was exploring the differences between the old (gen 1) clips and gen 2. his clips broke mid drive and tesla sent him new clips that are silver (unpainted) and a letter ensuring him that they were better than before.

i noticed OP has the same colored clips and am now wondering if other people have these clips now.

if i end up getting this rack, i'm thinking about letting tesla install it to see if they crack the roof too.