What do you guys think of Optimum's Big Red Sponge? I've been using the two bucket method with microfiber mitts, but this one bucket / Big Red Sponge method looks promising. I usually foam cannon beforehand unless the car just needs some dust rinsed off, so this sounds like it be a better fit.
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Optimum No Rise and Wax - Trying to avoid swirl marks
- Thread starter Zidarich
- Start date
Bill Foster
I'm going home!
I’ve used similar sponges but they fall apart after 6 months or so. Maybe the BRS is better? Plus the BRS used be out of stock a lot.
And man, I know your trying to keep scratches away, but two bucket, foam cannon and most other ways are just a waste of time.
my scratch free MSM has only been washed with one bucket and ONR. Washed every week.
people like that foam cannon cause visually it’s a great effect, which is why pro detailers push them. But almost always it’s a total waste of time
I feel like my process for keeping my car shiny and scratchless is perfect for lazy people, myself included. Here's my process:
In the spring, once all the sand and salt grime is gone from the winter, I take my car through a touchless car wash. I realize that these aren't available in all areas. If you have them, it's cheap ($6 here) and non-damaging to the paint. It gets your car clean enough for a manual rinseless wash.
For the rinseless step, I use a garden/pesticide sprayer holding the recommended ratio of ONR and water. I spray down a panel, spray down a MF fiber, fold the MF twice so I get 8 clean surfaces to wipe. That's generally enough for a single panel. I gently wipe down the panel with the wet MF, using a clean surface per wipe. Refold to expose new clean surfaces. Before moving on to the next panel, I dry the existing panel with a fresh, dry MF. Because I did the touchless car wash first, the only grime remaining is really just an oily film in some parts, usually concentrated on the lower sides of the car.
Now the car is clean enough for claybar. I only do this once a year. I used to think this was a really labor-intensive step, but it actually is pretty fast, and it's pretty satisfying to feel the clear coat go from slightly rough to glassy smooth under the clay. Same deal as before, I clean each full panel with a dry MF before moving on. I use the recommended claybar ratio of ONR/water. This one product does it all.
Next I do an isopropyl alcohol wipedown of the entire car. This is really fast, and it evaporates fast.
Lastly, I apply homeowner-grade ceramic coating instead of a wax product. This coating will last at least a year compared to the wax stuff, which inevitably requires another good wash and application every few months. Too lazy for that. Once the ceramic coat is on, the car becomes super easy to maintain. For the rest of the year, I just go thru the touchless car wash whenever my car looks a bit dirty, and it comes out super shiny and hydrophobic as if I did the full detail.
Only microscratches I can find on my car are near the door handles. Rest of the car looks as pristine as it did when I picked it up.
If you live somewhere that doesn't have the annual sand/salt sandblasting, you're lucky and would have even better results than me. I'd wager I could get away with doing the full washing process every 2 years.
In the spring, once all the sand and salt grime is gone from the winter, I take my car through a touchless car wash. I realize that these aren't available in all areas. If you have them, it's cheap ($6 here) and non-damaging to the paint. It gets your car clean enough for a manual rinseless wash.
For the rinseless step, I use a garden/pesticide sprayer holding the recommended ratio of ONR and water. I spray down a panel, spray down a MF fiber, fold the MF twice so I get 8 clean surfaces to wipe. That's generally enough for a single panel. I gently wipe down the panel with the wet MF, using a clean surface per wipe. Refold to expose new clean surfaces. Before moving on to the next panel, I dry the existing panel with a fresh, dry MF. Because I did the touchless car wash first, the only grime remaining is really just an oily film in some parts, usually concentrated on the lower sides of the car.
Now the car is clean enough for claybar. I only do this once a year. I used to think this was a really labor-intensive step, but it actually is pretty fast, and it's pretty satisfying to feel the clear coat go from slightly rough to glassy smooth under the clay. Same deal as before, I clean each full panel with a dry MF before moving on. I use the recommended claybar ratio of ONR/water. This one product does it all.
Next I do an isopropyl alcohol wipedown of the entire car. This is really fast, and it evaporates fast.
Lastly, I apply homeowner-grade ceramic coating instead of a wax product. This coating will last at least a year compared to the wax stuff, which inevitably requires another good wash and application every few months. Too lazy for that. Once the ceramic coat is on, the car becomes super easy to maintain. For the rest of the year, I just go thru the touchless car wash whenever my car looks a bit dirty, and it comes out super shiny and hydrophobic as if I did the full detail.
Only microscratches I can find on my car are near the door handles. Rest of the car looks as pristine as it did when I picked it up.
If you live somewhere that doesn't have the annual sand/salt sandblasting, you're lucky and would have even better results than me. I'd wager I could get away with doing the full washing process every 2 years.
Fernand
Active Member
It's interesting how people vary the sequence, what goes on top
of what. I feel we don't have adequate information, because the
question is really: what dissolves/strips what. For instance, if
isopropyl alcohol is applied, it pretty much makes everything
that came before, other than the abrasive action of a claybar,
irrelevant, it's gone. Or I see some people applying a wax or
sealer and then claybarring. I wish Optimum published something
really clarifying the solubilities of various coatings relative to ONR,
how best to layer stuff, and how the two ONR formulations work
over and under different sealers/waxes. Because of the wax,
the ONR+Wax behaves differently from plain ONR. The plain
removes very easily and takes it down to clearcoat with a tiny
layer of something. ONR+Wax takes a little elbow grease, there's
a bit of a wax-removal feel, and it leaves a thicker layer that
includes some wax.
@novox77 I like your method. The only thing is that I have a
thick wax look fetiche, so I'm trying to maximize that.
@Ckanderson I've wondered why the Optimum dude is into the
sponge + bucket method - and then what do you do with that
wasted dirty ONR solution? when you can keep it clean by
soaking only clean towels in it, OR using a garden sprayer to
both pre-soak the car and wet the clean towels, never even
having to use a bucket at all.
of what. I feel we don't have adequate information, because the
question is really: what dissolves/strips what. For instance, if
isopropyl alcohol is applied, it pretty much makes everything
that came before, other than the abrasive action of a claybar,
irrelevant, it's gone. Or I see some people applying a wax or
sealer and then claybarring. I wish Optimum published something
really clarifying the solubilities of various coatings relative to ONR,
how best to layer stuff, and how the two ONR formulations work
over and under different sealers/waxes. Because of the wax,
the ONR+Wax behaves differently from plain ONR. The plain
removes very easily and takes it down to clearcoat with a tiny
layer of something. ONR+Wax takes a little elbow grease, there's
a bit of a wax-removal feel, and it leaves a thicker layer that
includes some wax.
@novox77 I like your method. The only thing is that I have a
thick wax look fetiche, so I'm trying to maximize that.
@Ckanderson I've wondered why the Optimum dude is into the
sponge + bucket method - and then what do you do with that
wasted dirty ONR solution? when you can keep it clean by
soaking only clean towels in it, OR using a garden sprayer to
both pre-soak the car and wet the clean towels, never even
having to use a bucket at all.
I do the isopropyl after claybar really to just clean off any clay/ONR remnants that didn't get wiped off. Some people will buff their clear coat after claying, which would obviate the need for another cleansing step like the iso. Since I don't buff, I'm just getting as much grime off as possible before sealing everything with the ceramic coating.
people who apply wax and then claybar are doing it wrong. The clay will strip that stuff right off. You claybar when you've removed as much crap as possible with surfactants (like ONR or soap). Most people follow procedures that others came up with without understanding the mechanics/science.
Also, the clay is not abrasive. it is sticky. It grabs onto particles that are too embedded to be removed by surfactants (like ONR). Once the grime is embedded in the clay, it can become abrasive, which is why you knead the clay frequently to completely encapsulate the crap that came off the car.
In summary: pressure wash to get rid of the large particles. Then surfactant wash to get rid of finer grime and particles. Then claybar to get rid of grime/brake dust embedded in the microscopic cracks of the clear coat. Then buff the clearcoat to reduce the cracks (I skip this step cause I don't have the orbital buffer) or do a final removal of anything hydrophobic material (wax, road grime, etc) with isopropyl alcohol. Then you're ready to apply the finish sealer of choice.
people who apply wax and then claybar are doing it wrong. The clay will strip that stuff right off. You claybar when you've removed as much crap as possible with surfactants (like ONR or soap). Most people follow procedures that others came up with without understanding the mechanics/science.
Also, the clay is not abrasive. it is sticky. It grabs onto particles that are too embedded to be removed by surfactants (like ONR). Once the grime is embedded in the clay, it can become abrasive, which is why you knead the clay frequently to completely encapsulate the crap that came off the car.
In summary: pressure wash to get rid of the large particles. Then surfactant wash to get rid of finer grime and particles. Then claybar to get rid of grime/brake dust embedded in the microscopic cracks of the clear coat. Then buff the clearcoat to reduce the cracks (I skip this step cause I don't have the orbital buffer) or do a final removal of anything hydrophobic material (wax, road grime, etc) with isopropyl alcohol. Then you're ready to apply the finish sealer of choice.
joebruin77
Active Member
People at work used to ask me if I was a sales rep or if ONR was a pyramid scheme.
It's just that good. How often do you buy something that not only does what it's supposed to, but blows you away. Aside from Tesla that is.
Clay towels are good, opti-raser is a foam with a rubber coating that makes it work like a clay bar.
Other than that, most clay is all the same. Clay-magic owned the patents and sued everybody that was making them, so as a result they make most of the clay on the market.
Bill Foster
I'm going home!
Bill Foster
I'm going home!
Bill Foster
I'm going home!
I've been throwing my used buckets of ONR in the same spot on my front lawn for almost a decade.
Doesn't hurt anything.
Bill Foster
I'm going home!
That's not going to work. If you want to mix something in a pressure washer, use a foaming car wash like CarPro Reset. Let the foam drip off the car and remove a lot of the dirt. Then ONR wash with the two bucket method. Use thick microfibers, and drag in straight lines with only the weight of the towel. Don't worry this won't scratch your car.
If your car is not too soiled, the foaming step is not necessary. Just two bucket wash with ONR, but also spray panels with a spray solution of ONR so all the dirt gets encapsulated before your towel hits the surface.
Drying is when things get risky. I suggest you use a drying aid like OID as it will increase gloss, help dry, and increase lubrication.
I think he meant he only does the Isopropyl alcohol wipedown before doing the ceramic coating. This is important because you want the ceramic coating to bond with the bare clear coat, not other care products. You do not want to do an IPA wash at any other time.
Also @novox77 I highly suggest you pick up Optimum Instant Detailer and Gloss Enhancer. Get the 32 oz. Version (it's concentrated) and use it as a drying aid. (add 1 or 2 sprays to each wet panel before drying it with a drying cloth) This will increase gloss tremendously and is very easy.
If you want to spend some more money, apply P and S Beadmaker as a drying aid instead. A gallon is $32 and it has ridiculous gloss and slickness. I don't even use my OID anymore.
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Probably every 3.5 weeks.
Might I suggest something?
Ditch the Waxes completely. Use standard ONR and P and S Beadmaker as a drying aid. Done. Done. Done.
The Bead Maker gave me as much gloss as when I first applied my Ceramic coating. And it was so easy to apply. A generous spray and wipe-off gave me an extremely slippery, glossy surface. The stuff is cheap too. $32 for a gallon and no need for waxes, ceramic coatings, etc.
The only downside is the stuff lasts about a month. A proper Wax could last several months. Though Beadmaker gives you objectively WAY more gloss and slickness.
So I have a clear bra on the front the. A Feynlabs ceramic coating on the whole car. The guy that did the clear bra and the ceramic told me to use 70% isopropyl alcohol to remove bugs and other stuff from the car as needed. I’ve used that on the front of the car - is that bad? Is that going to remove the ceramic?
I wash with ONR with Garry Dean method with one buckets and lots of Chemical Guys towels. OPtimum instant detailer used for drying aid. Thinking about adding beadmaker or reload to the mix!
Let me know about the alcohol use...thanks.
I wash with ONR with Garry Dean method with one buckets and lots of Chemical Guys towels. OPtimum instant detailer used for drying aid. Thinking about adding beadmaker or reload to the mix!
Let me know about the alcohol use...thanks.
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