On another thread on this site there is an utube video and several comments on Bead More. I have tried it and it actually works. The only disadvantage is that after you spray it on and wipe off you need to let it cure for several hours.it can even be used on the windows like Rain- ex. Actually did my windshield by accident and now rarely need my wipers. Not a long term solution as it needs to be reapplied after several washes.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Optimum No Rise and Wax - Trying to avoid swirl marks
- Thread starter Zidarich
- Start date
Once the ceramic coating is cured, isopropyl alcohol will not remove it. The only solvent that could remove it would likely be acetone, but you definitely DON'T want to use acetone. That stuff will eat through your clear coat, paint, and primer.
joebruin77
Active Member
I would disagree with this recommendation. If the only thing you have on your paint is Bead Maker, the paint has barely any protection. Yes, Bead Maker gives a ton of gloss and slickness, but it offers a very minimal level of protection. There are multiple product comparison tests on youtube that dramatically show Bead Maker breaking down quickly. For example, in one test, Bead Maker failed after just being washed with car soap a couple times.
I would much rather have my paint protected with a durable sealant and/or wax. If you want to use Bead Maker as a topper for added shine and gloss, that's fine. But Bead Maker is a horrible sealant as a stand alone, IMO.
You're right, but he stated he wanted to put minimal time/effort and get that fresh wax look. Perhaps instead of Beadmaker he could use something like Reload for more protection? It's just as easy to apply and almost as glossy. It is also much more durable.
Or. Just use the green ONR which has wax in it. I personally add their spray was on top because it keeps the paint looking slick, but you don't need it.
joebruin77
Active Member
I recently posted a review of a new product called Technicians Choice Ceramic Detail Spray.
I think a quick, easy, and inexpensive way to protect paint with shine and gloss is first apply Turtle Wax Seal and Shine, followed by the Technicians Coice Ceramic Detail Spray. I think the TC CDS is better than Reload.
Fernand
Active Member
The Turtle Wax Ice paste wax was good, no white stains on plastic or rubber.
And it's been shown to hold up several months, better than many other waxes.
But when I compared the 3M Show Car Paste Wax, it was no contest on
the richness of the look. I'm not married to any particular approach, but
I want a layer of something thick over the clearcoat, something that standard
grime doesn't stick to, and so far ONR+Wax on top of a god 3M waxing has
been holding up well -- and we know a quick dusting and an ONR "wash" is
not very labor-intensive. Just got my 1 gallon $14 pressure sprayer. We'll see.
Lots of alternatives! Onward, shiny Teslas!
And it's been shown to hold up several months, better than many other waxes.
But when I compared the 3M Show Car Paste Wax, it was no contest on
the richness of the look. I'm not married to any particular approach, but
I want a layer of something thick over the clearcoat, something that standard
grime doesn't stick to, and so far ONR+Wax on top of a god 3M waxing has
been holding up well -- and we know a quick dusting and an ONR "wash" is
not very labor-intensive. Just got my 1 gallon $14 pressure sprayer. We'll see.
Lots of alternatives! Onward, shiny Teslas!
joebruin77
Active Member
I posted this in another recent thread, thought it might speak to your question:
I should give the disclaimer that while I have a whole-car PPF, I do not have a ceramic coating. So I do not have personal experience applying any toppers to ceramic coating. If I did, I would probably first try the maintenance spray recommended by the manufacturer of the ceramic coating itself. I would also think that a maintenance spray that contains SiO2 would be better than a non-ceramic spray, such as Bead Maker (BM has no SiO2). I read that Bead Maker can enhance the hydrophobic properties of certain coatings but it can also detract some hydrophobic properties on others.
Fernand
Active Member
Just a question here. Now the auto industry has developed the
clear-coat method to provide more luster than a one layer paint job,
but they also want to deliver a pretty durable finish. So why don't
THEY just spray a "ceramic" coating layer on the clear-coat?
Are these coatings really harder and more scratch resistant than the
factory clear-coat itself? And once they harden, how do they interact
with the clear-coat? do they come off? If you get scratches, can you
dissolve the coating off and be back to virgin unscratched clear-coat?
Since the clear coat is already pretty optimal, within the limits of current
plastics, but it's vulnerable, I see the need for a sacrificial layer that isn't
hard-bonded to the clear coat. Something softer that grime can bond to,
if it's going to, and that can gradually wear down while grime is removed,
and will be periodically replaced when it's too thin. Good thing we have
ONR to quickly wash without using crude detergents. That's a change.
Hopefully prolong the life of a good waxing a lot. Keeping fingers crossed.
But that's my wax theory. An inexpensive, lustrous, sacrificial layer
clear-coat method to provide more luster than a one layer paint job,
but they also want to deliver a pretty durable finish. So why don't
THEY just spray a "ceramic" coating layer on the clear-coat?
Are these coatings really harder and more scratch resistant than the
factory clear-coat itself? And once they harden, how do they interact
with the clear-coat? do they come off? If you get scratches, can you
dissolve the coating off and be back to virgin unscratched clear-coat?
Since the clear coat is already pretty optimal, within the limits of current
plastics, but it's vulnerable, I see the need for a sacrificial layer that isn't
hard-bonded to the clear coat. Something softer that grime can bond to,
if it's going to, and that can gradually wear down while grime is removed,
and will be periodically replaced when it's too thin. Good thing we have
ONR to quickly wash without using crude detergents. That's a change.
Hopefully prolong the life of a good waxing a lot. Keeping fingers crossed.
But that's my wax theory. An inexpensive, lustrous, sacrificial layer
i took my black tm3 to future wash (im pretty sure they use a washless system) 2x and it has swirl marks all over. Can this be corrected at a detailer? Im not sure what the capabilities are.
Going back and forth between full ppf vs full ceramic vs saving 5k and doing touch up work as necessary
can anyone recommend good products for a solid at-home wash system? Im currently eyeing a pressure washer and foam cannon, some plush washing mitts and a leaf blower to dry. Seems like ONR is highly suggested but maybe not for foam? Thanks!
Going back and forth between full ppf vs full ceramic vs saving 5k and doing touch up work as necessary
can anyone recommend good products for a solid at-home wash system? Im currently eyeing a pressure washer and foam cannon, some plush washing mitts and a leaf blower to dry. Seems like ONR is highly suggested but maybe not for foam? Thanks!
Yes it can be corrected unless they're deep enough to catch a fingernail.
Don't take your car to automatic washes.
ONR is all you need. No need for foam cannons, they're gimicks.
The rag company makes good but affordable microfiber towels. The higher the number the more they'll absorb. I use their 500gsm towels to dry and their 420gsm towels for general use.
Their wash mitts are good too
Yes, it can be polished out. Take it to a well-reputed shop and get a paint correction. Then you can have them ceramic coat the car, or you can apply a coating yourself. Cquartz UK 3.0 is the best one.
There are a lot of good foamers. For Ceramic coatings, people prefer CarPro reset. You should foam the car (usually only when it's really soiled) and then use a two bucket wash with ONR. Then you should apply a sealant and topper. Car guys Hybrid Wax is a creat spray-on sealant that is also durable and really glossy. Beadmaker as the final coating will make the gloss over-the-top.
Cquartz is definitely not the best coating. It's cheap and easy to apply.
That's true, but he already has a pressure washer so he might as well take advantage of it. ONR will prevent swirls in a lot of scenarios, but it won't work on really soiled cars. Using a foam pre-wash will help drip off a lot of the contaminants.
Just because another ceramic coating is more expensive and harder to apply doesn't mean it's better.
There are many tests on YouTube comparing Cquartz UK 3.0 with other consumer coatings, and it wins with a high margin. I'm not sure what you're talking about.
Bill Foster
I'm going home!
You also say you need a foam cannon and two buckets for ONR so I’ll take your recommendation with a grain of salt lol
Fernand
Active Member
Aside from the psychological thrill, I can't see the value of
foam. It's like detergents 50 years ago before we knew that
foaming wasn't necessary at all. And it's questionable whether
using detergents isn't needlessly tearing up your wax/sealant
without really getting the car cleaner. It's old technology.
If I had a pressure unit, I'd use it with clean water to push
the big dirt off, then hand work a modern cleaner where
needed in spots like with bugs, then use the pressure unit
to easily spray a 256:1 ONR+wax in distilled H2O all over,
wipe it off with microfiber towels, and dry. Whether a leaf
blower is as good to dry with as modern drying microfiber
towels is something you can assess, never tried it, but I like
how the towels buff the small wax residue from the ONR+Wax.
It seems this approach preserves your wax or sealant job,
doesn't waste water or time. The results speak for themselves.
foam. It's like detergents 50 years ago before we knew that
foaming wasn't necessary at all. And it's questionable whether
using detergents isn't needlessly tearing up your wax/sealant
without really getting the car cleaner. It's old technology.
If I had a pressure unit, I'd use it with clean water to push
the big dirt off, then hand work a modern cleaner where
needed in spots like with bugs, then use the pressure unit
to easily spray a 256:1 ONR+wax in distilled H2O all over,
wipe it off with microfiber towels, and dry. Whether a leaf
blower is as good to dry with as modern drying microfiber
towels is something you can assess, never tried it, but I like
how the towels buff the small wax residue from the ONR+Wax.
It seems this approach preserves your wax or sealant job,
doesn't waste water or time. The results speak for themselves.
Last edited:
Similar threads
