Out of Warranty Drive Unit Replacement and Cost

[geordi]

The battery for the classic S and X is not 20k. It would depend on which size you had originally, but the cost for a reman unit from Tesla is more like 11k-14k and the cost for new is like 13k-15k. Now if you choose the reman, there is a good chance you will get a new pack anyway b/c the availability of reman packs is quite limited. But that's a gamble and no guarantees.

Or you can go to 057tech and pay a lot less and maybe get an upgrade out of it - but that will be a used pack not a refurb.

 

[NV Ray]

The battery for the classic S and X is not 20k. It would depend on which size you had originally, but the cost for a reman unit from Tesla is more like 11k-14k and the cost for new is like 13k-15k. Now if you choose the reman, there is a good chance you will get a new pack anyway b/c the availability of reman packs is quite limited. But that's a gamble and no guarantees.

Or you can go to 057tech and pay a lot less and maybe get an upgrade out of it - but that will be a used pack not a refurb.

Based on my personal experience a Tesla 85/90 reman is $13.5 + tax and labor approx $15k. Tesla 85/90 new is $17k + tax and labor approx $20k. In some cases I've seen new Tesla 85/90 start at $18k + tax and labor. Pic is my quote, started at $13.5k but Tesla knocked off $250.

 

[geordi]

Clearly there is some regional variation in the quoted pricing - and also in the labor cost as South Florida seems to think their service centers are worth $298/hour for labor when the union-friendly northeast only charges $175/hr. Odd but worth investigating if you need something major and have a mobile vehicle still.

 

[raphy3]

$6300 here with labor (parts were $4800), reman unit, 50k/4yr warranty

 

[geordi]

$6300 here with labor (parts were $4800), reman unit, 50k/4yr warranty

Where’s “here” that offers such a very reasonable price?

 

[globalautopilo]

No noise or indication that the performance was an issue. On morning, pulling out of a parking lot, there was a hesitation when I hit the accelerator then "BANG" I thought I had been rear ended even though there was no one behind me. It was the drive unit engaging instantly under load. Then a few miles down the road I lost propulsion and my PRND indicator turned from white letters to red. The car made it home and sat for a few days. After that I tested it and it was driving normal without issues for almost a week. Then it started up again and I pulled over and had it towed to Tesla.

This just happened to my 2013 Model S 85. Bit of a thud and the "PRND" letters all go red. Eventually they go white again.
111K miles, but the DU was replaced under warranty back in 2019 (just before I bought the car). Tesla SC (Carlsbad) is looking at it today, but I suspect they're going to tell me I need a new DU.
The car is out of warranty, but does anyone know if anything changes given that the DU was replaced by Tesla under warranty ~4 years ago?

 

[cduzz]

This just happened to my 2013 Model S 85. Bit of a thud and the "PRND" letters all go red. Eventually they go white again.
111K miles, but the DU was replaced under warranty back in 2019 (just before I bought the car). Tesla SC (Carlsbad) is looking at it today, but I suspect they're going to tell me I need a new DU.
The car is out of warranty, but does anyone know if anything changes given that the DU was replaced by Tesla under warranty ~4 years ago?

My understanding is there is no warranty on parts replaced under warranty that extends beyond the original warranty. Meaning:

one day before warranty expires, part dies; part is replaced; the next day the part dies again, you're now out of warranty and you have to pay full freight to replace the part. (this is an extreme example that likely result in some "good will" compensation, in the real world)

Once you're replacing a part and paying for it you get a repair warranty on that part.

 

[M"S"3XY]

My understanding is there is no warranty on parts replaced under warranty that extends beyond the original warranty. Meaning:

one day before warranty expires, part dies; part is replaced; the next day the part dies again, you're now out of warranty and you have to pay full freight to replace the part. (this is an extreme example that likely result in some "good will" compensation, in the real world)

Once you're replacing a part and paying for it you get a repair warranty on that part.

I believe @cduzz Is correct. When I worked at Chevrolet, that same rule applied.

 

[geordi]

Yes, that is 100% how their warranty is worded. If you get a brand new XYZ under the original warranty, it only comes with the remainder of the original warranty period covering it.

If you have paid for XYZ to be replaced and THAT fails, same applies - only the original warranty period (if paid, that should be 4 years / 50k miles) remains.

 

[Ketchups]

I had taken it in several time previously for uneven acceleration(almost like a vibration when accelerating)

you never got that taken care of? there's a service bulletin to replace the axles and a new part they install as well. I had it done and it resolved the vibrations when launching from a stop.

 

[Ketchups]

ASY,P-TRAIN,REMAN, SPORT, LARGE DU 1025598-00-T

97k miles and had the DU replaced under warranty.

 

[globalautopilo]

This just happened to my 2013 Model S 85. Bit of a thud and the "PRND" letters all go red. Eventually they go white again.
111K miles, but the DU was replaced under warranty back in 2019 (just before I bought the car). Tesla SC (Carlsbad) is looking at it today, but I suspect they're going to tell me I need a new DU.
The car is out of warranty, but does anyone know if anything changes given that the DU was replaced by Tesla under warranty ~4 years ago?

Tesla tried the speed sensor, but of course that didn't do it. New drive unit they say. $~6,500 is the quote for a factory refurbished drive unit and 4 year / 50k warranty (~5K for the parts, ~1,300 for the labor).

Through this process I ended up calling QC Charge in Vista, CA about doing a rebuild. The costs just didn't make sense for a QC Charge rebuild, but it was really interesting talking to them about these LDU's and typical failure modes. I know I've seen some of the QC Charge guys on other threads (probably even this thread) as well saying roughly the same thing, but to re-iterate what is more than likely that happened is that coolant leaked into the inverter and is shorting stuff out. So for anyone with an LDU that is out of warranty, it's really important as these motors age to pull your speed sensor to check for leaks and get it taken care of before anything becomes catastrophic.

 

[canasion35]

Tesla tried the speed sensor, but of course that didn't do it. New drive unit they say. $~6,500 is the quote for a factory refurbished drive unit and 4 year / 50k warranty (~5K for the parts, ~1,300 for the labor).

Through this process I ended up calling QC Charge in Vista, CA about doing a rebuild. The costs just didn't make sense for a QC Charge rebuild, but it was really interesting talking to them about these LDU's and typical failure modes. I know I've seen some of the QC Charge guys on other threads (probably even this thread) as well saying roughly the same thing, but to re-iterate what is more than likely that happened is that coolant leaked into the inverter and is shorting stuff out. So for anyone with an LDU that is out of warranty, it's really important as these motors age to pull your speed sensor to check for leaks and get it taken care of before anything becomes catastrophic.

Has anyone seen/documented the drain mod? Getting my LDU replaced this week (only 17k miles on the reman rev. Q LDU and it started to make the milling noise)…so it’s getting replaced - 103k on the S85.

As this is the last one covered by Tesla I want to add the drain mod so I can make this one last more than 17k miles.

 

[TLLMRRJ]

I saw a recent youtube video of a shop that applies improvements to solve the several weak points of the LDU before it fails, which is obviously less expensive than waiting until it craters. I would go that route if I owned one of these older cars.

 

[howardc64]

Has anyone seen/documented the drain mod? Getting my LDU replaced this week (only 17k miles on the reman rev. Q LDU and it started to make the milling noise)…so it’s getting replaced - 103k on the S85.

As this is the last one covered by Tesla I want to add the drain mod so I can make this one last more than 17k miles.

drain mod on a non leaking LDU is an interesting challenge.

- Pull the coolant manifold to add drain mod means need to replace seal. So far, it is still a challenge to find a good seal after 1+ year of searching.
- Can put in drain mod WITH LDU mounted on the car. Need some fairly experienced person to put in that drain hole without dumping a bunch of metal shavings into the seal cavity.

Tesla LDU - Preventive Mods (google.com)

 

[canasion35]

- Can put in drain mod WITH LDU mounted on the car. Need some fairly experienced person to put in that drain hole without dumping a bunch of metal shavings into the seal cavity.

That's what I'm after - to install a drain on the LDU while fully mounted on the car. Thank you for the link, incredibly helpful sir!

 

[howardc64]

That's what I'm after - to install a drain on the LDU while fully mounted on the car. Thank you for the link, incredibly helpful sir!

This is a game changer mod if can be done. But definitely tricky. I've not done it. My understanding is to avoid introducing shavings to the interior, drilling speed must be slow with oiled tip stick any shavings to continuously remove (also cool maybe?) and wipe clean. Best to consult machinist with experience.

Please do post back with your experience. I suppose unfortunately no way to tell how much shaving got inside unless tapped hole is big enough for a borescope (which maybe too big to be desirable?)

 

[canasion35]

This is a game changer mod if can be done. But definitely tricky. I've not done it. My understanding is to avoid introducing shavings to the interior, drilling speed must be slow with oiled tip stick any shavings to continuously remove (also cool maybe?) and wipe clean. Best to consult machinist with experience.

Please do post back with your experience. I suppose unfortunately no way to tell how much shaving got inside unless tapped hole is big enough for a borescope (which maybe too big to be desirable?)

Will do - this is a car we're keeping until the battery pack gives out so longevity of this LDU is the goal. I was thinking about the shavings, maybe sticking a magnet in there to grab the shavings will do the trick. Slowly taking small increments of material away off the LDU is the only way to do it while mounted it looks like.

BTW your link has many good threads and references throughout - thank you again!

 

[howardc64]

maybe sticking a magnet in there to grab the shavings will do the trick. Slowly taking small increments of material away off the LDU is the only way to do it while mounted it looks like.

Coolant manifold (where you tapped the drain hole) alloy is unfortunately non magnetic Anyway, good to pioneer a solution. Might reach out to the French owner that got his coolant soaked stator running with the drain tap all with LDU mounted in the car to see how he is doing.

BTW your link has many good threads and references throughout - thank you again!

Yes, I've done this style "directory" website for multiple cars. Posting+finding info in the forums but add this directory to link to them. Forums are great but if someone doesn't track it constantly and just looking for a single point solution. Its easy to miss key info or find wrong info while searching. So hopefully the directory provide a pointer to right solution on most common issues.

 

[howardc64]

Coolant manifold (where you tapped the drain hole) alloy is unfortunately non magnetic Anyway, good to pioneer a solution. Might reach out to the French owner that got his coolant soaked stator running with the drain tap all with LDU mounted in the car to see how he is doing.

One more note on drilling drain hole with LDU mounted in car.

IF coolant leak has already started, there is no way to know how far it got. This means

• rotor bearing grease maybe already compromised. This might have contributed to any newly developed faint noises.
• stator chamber and rotor could have rust (Mine did) but it seemed to run fine with slight rust although the 3 phase winding need to maintain their proper resistance to other circuit paths (isolation)
• coolant maybe already in the inverter chamber wicking up the control board wiring harness on the lowest spot (mine had barely started crawling). Pulling the orange cover for B+ B- (deadly high voltage so HV safety required) and carefully inspect the inside of the cover may reveal any tiny coolant droplets (mine had tiny droplets)
• Where rust is on stator/rotor and inverter likely depend on the side to side grade where car is parked. Mine patterns all tilted towards driver side revealing my garage had a slight tilt.

But yes, dropping the LDU and manhandling that 300lb monster is a PITA. Just note drain tap + sealing speed sensor vent hole is best done prior to leak or at least early. But I suppose even without dropping the leaking LDU, having a drain is better than more coolant accumulation and continue to agitated by the coolant swimming pool with reluctor wheel and aerosolize the coolant all over the motor+inverter.

My rebuild @ 3k did develop rust on the rotor shaft where coolant seal sits. It is likely the shaft requires rust proofing finish. This introduces yet another concern on reman LDUs not having proper rust proofing finish on the rotor shaft.

DIY Tesla Drive Unit Repair

Half Shafts Here is how to get the half shafts in. If your parking brake is locked like mine, have to insert the gearbox end first. If insert hub end first, can not rotate shaft to engage spline on gearbox. Need to unhook wheel speed sensor wire to gain enough space to insert the half shaft...

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