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Performance Upgrade Price Change!

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For us P3D- owners the least we should get is the top speed upgrade 145 -155 (no cost software update) and the stick-on tail install when it comes in with the badges, since no one has gotten those yet and people paying the same price today are getting them.
 
I originally had the performance configured but when it was known the brake upgrades were $5,000 extra I changed it to the AWD. If I was buying right now I would get the performance. Now I have to live with this lethargic dual motor/AWD. :)
Lucky you I I wish I had never switched to performance I would have gotten the best value. Now I feel like I overpaid by $5500, but I mean I did have the car for 8 days, so that's only like flushing $687 down the toilet for every day of ownership before the price change. So much for saving any money on gas!
 
Lucky you I I wish I had never switched to performance I would have gotten the best value. Now I feel like I overpaid by $5500, but I mean I did have the car for 8 days, so that's only like flushing $687 down the toilet for every day of ownership before the price change. So much for saving any money on gas!
In Ohio my electric is $.09 per KWh. Isn't California much higher so your free supercharging should offset that quickly? Even paying for my charges at home I'm still saving $2,000 per year over my old gas car. But I drive 16k per year.

You should not feel bad about your purchase.
 
Called Tesla this morning (owner accounts dept / 40 min wait) and they stated that they don't have any word from above on how they will proceed with the 5K issues. They are aware of Elon's tweets and claim higher management is currently hashing out how they want to handle this and what options will be given to whom. For now, nothing is being offered so anything you hear otherwise is speculation.
 
In Ohio my electric is $.09 per KWh. Isn't California much higher so your free supercharging should offset that quickly? Even paying for my charges at home I'm still saving $2,000 per year over my old gas car. But I drive 16k per year.

You should not feel bad about your purchase.

It's approx 75,000 SUPERCHARGED MILES to make up $5,000 in California @ 0.26c kwh.

Transit time/mileage/wear+tear to get to a supercharging, fighting for a spot, uneven charge times depending on SOC.

With all the hoops and nonsense, it's realistically going to be 125,000 supercharged miles before I make an economic profit. Only through ignorance (not meant to be inflammatory) would one look at accounting profit only.

Tesla isn't going to subtract this car's price by 5000 to take away supercharging. It's only $35,000 to get into a vehicle with UNLIMITED charging.

How much is that worth then? Not a lot by inference.

Also, I have to question if I'm willing to kill someone or put my life in danger for scenarios that will pop up over that much frequent charging:

jayden on Twitter

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You should not feel bad about your purchase.

I am in total agreement, but based on the series of forum posts, even 5k back to this customer would not change the bad feelings. They are upset about the fact that they cant drive their new car, as their car is getting repairs, and that its not a desireable P3D-, though that was what they ordered. Regardless of anything else, even a $10k refund wouldn't change much unless they had outright rejected the car and waited for a new one.
 
For us P3D- owners the least we should get is the top speed upgrade 145 -155 (no cost software update) and the stick-on tail install when it comes in with the badges, since no one has gotten those yet and people paying the same price today are getting them.

Yup, I agree with you on this. It would also cost them probably $20-$50 to swap out the accelerator/break pedals. I think the real defining difference is the break calipers. It would one nice if they just gave us a $5000 parts credit which we could use for tires/breaks and whatever we wanted to add to the car. The Model S has a break caliper upgrade for $2,300:

Model S Brake Calipers Set
 
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In Ohio my electric is $.09 per KWh. Isn't California much higher so your free supercharging should offset that quickly? Even paying for my charges at home I'm still saving $2,000 per year over my old gas car. But I drive 16k per year.

You should not feel bad about your purchase.
Too complicated to calculate.

Last month my Power Bill for over $500 plus the $240 a month I pay for my 7KW solar system loan. I was charging my chevy volt on a tiered plan. My bill was like 3x as high as the previous year.

So I switch to the tiered plan, then sold my volt for the 3.

This month has been ALLOT cooler so we haven't been running the AC much. Last year my October bill was $31. This year my bill is already at $131, so I'm going to estimate It will be around $150 or $120 higher than last year (power is more expensive when we need it). looks like about 65+% of our power usage has been charging the car during super off peak so the TOU plan is making ALLOT more sense despite the increased cost (5x higher than super off peak) during peak hours. Also I have only had the car for 13 days so that 65% is nuts and I expect it to be closer to 85% of the power we use for a full month.

Anyways I can only make an estimate that I will save about $100-$150 a month total over my old ICE commuter (ford focus), and probably breaking even with the chevy volt and splitting gas / power in tiered one (for every month but september!).

So it will take 5 years of gas savings to get that 5k back and another 3 years to really break even with the estimated cost of ownership on teslas site.

So in 8 years the $5500 drop won't matter as much, because I will have saved that much in gas?

Supercharging won't help that much when I'm only paying 8 cents per Kwh. I stopped by the supercharger for the first time this weekend, it would be painful to have to wait about an hour every day for the car to charge, esp considering I commute for 2-3 hours work 9 hours and then would have to supercharge for an hour? Not sure saving a few bucks is worth that valuable 1 hour of free time I get now!
 
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Yup, I agree with you on this. It would also cost them probably $20-$50 to swap out the accelerator/break pedals. I think the real defining difference is the break calipers. It would one nice if they just gave us a $5000 parts credit which we could use for tires/breaks and whatever we wanted to add to the car. The Model S has a break caliper upgrade for $2,300:

Model S Brake Calipers Set

To add the PUP package to P3D- it is looking like it's going to be closer to $8000-$10,000, assuming they want $2300 or brakes and $700 for the spoiler, and pedals. The wheels and tires alone are $4000 (I think this includes some extra linkage too but I don't think this includes the performance shocks). If you change the shocks too I have no idea what it would cost. $10k?

I bought the topfit aluminum pedals for lik3 $40 on amazon and it looks like you can get them for around $30 on ebay. They look and fit great! I don't care about the spoiler really... But even without it it's too expensive for $5000 parts credit to be worth while? I mean it's better than nothing though!
 
In Ohio my electric is $.09 per KWh. Isn't California much higher so your free supercharging should offset that quickly? Even paying for my charges at home I'm still saving $2,000 per year over my old gas car. But I drive 16k per year.

You should not feel bad about your purchase.

In San Diego, CA, they have a TOU plan which gets $0.078 per kWh. (It does require a ~$6 additional monthly fee, netting out at ~$16 monthly fee...complicated but that's the summary.)

https://www.sdge.com/sites/default/...-18 Schedule EV-TOU-5 Total Rates Table_0.pdf

It's more complicated than that, of course, because time-of-use means you might in exchange be paying higher rates during the day/evening than you would on a tiered-rate plan. But when combined with solar, it is a very good plan for EV owners with SDG&E, if you plan to charge at home a lot. So that makes free Supercharging not that attractive in SD, unless you're one of the people with use/travel/living scenarios where home charging isn't an option. In the end you have to get solar (a lot of solar) to insulate yourself from future rate changes - they're always manipulating hours and rates to try to optimize their profits while reducing the value of solar. But combo storage/solar insulates you. Hopefully Tesla will eventually be able to come in with grid-scale storage solutions to solve the duck curve issues and then maybe the power company/PUC won't need to be so manipulative with their demand levers.
 
Ordered a P3D- in September got notified that it was ready on Thursday (of course). My delivery specialist "does not do phone calls" so I went to the Gallery where one Sales Adviser said I had $5K already removed and just got a call from the Sales Adviser that we worked with who said no, we get nothing and if we changed, we would get P3+, but lose FSD as that is not a current option (and doesn't work yet anyway - my comment).

Haven't paid yet (as we live in Texas, have to pay before it ships). Wife does not care about PUP and it is her car.

Missed AP2 with my MS90D by a month.
 
For us P3D- owners

I know no one (or few) care but my car is not a P3D MINUS anything... + works when you add stuff, my car just never had (the now free) stuff added...

Tongue in cheek but it does seem quite weird, we're not calling the RWD an AWD <MINUS> are we?

Especially now, mine really is a stealth unicorn performance 3! I prefer to feel less screwed.. or something...
 
I am going to refer to mine as a P3D-P. Does that work?
IMO P3D- makes more sense than P3D+. There is no longer a P3D+ just a P3D and a P3D-.

Actually I wonder if we can still even refer to our cars a a performance variant. I think they physically are closer to an AWD than a P3D. I think we should call them 3D+'s.

My car "F Tesla" still feels very upset about not getting her wheels and brakes enlarged, she will also forever have father issues because he just didn't care about her.
 
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IMO P3D- makes more sense than P3D+. There is no longer a P3D+ just a P3D and a P3D-.

Actually I wonder if we can still even refer to our cars a a performance variant. I think they physically are closer to an AWD than a P3D. I think we should call them 3D+'s.

My car "F Tesla" still feels very upset about not getting her wheels and brakes enlarged, she will also forever have father issues because he just didn't care about her.

No. 0-60 and 1/4 mile times are world apart. Is was sold as Performance model and I have window sticker to prove it :p.
 
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No. 0-60 and 1/4 mile times are world apart. Is was sold as Performance model and I have window sticker to prove it :p.
I think we have AWD's with partial performance software (lower top speed) :p
Ours will no longer be considered performance models, they will just be some bastard child of the performance model.

Staring to look more and more like all AWD's can be flashed to performance models and with the crazy price structure perhaps the performance software will be free soon too. Worst 11k spent ever!
 
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IMO P3D- makes more sense than P3D+. There is no longer a P3D+ just a P3D and a P3D-.

There is P3 and AWD and MR - right? The minus still makes no sense.. even if we're po'd at things..

Actually I wonder if we can still even refer to our cars a a performance variant. I think they physically are closer to an AWD than a P3D. I think we should call them 3D+'s.

Well they could be an AWD+ too .. though I agree with @juanmedina cause I got an expensive window sticker too ;)

This discussion is how some of us deal with wondering wtf and still be annoyed I couldn't order my Performance AWD with 19" rims..
 
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