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Plaid 21” rear tire woes - factory defect?

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Hmm. Directions said 80ft lbs. I was definitively careful not it cross thread. Didn’t feel any thing out of the ordinary so should be all good.
It’s about not placing excess stress in the sun frame threadings. You don’t have to have to replace a subframe.

If you want I can send you the Tesla service manual document about replacing the arms / bolts with torque specs and warnings.
 
Wish Macboost would come out with a shim kit to get an adjustable amount of camber change. And I would prefer if the shims were the shape of the camber arm attachment so they weren't so noticeable to the SC's that like to find something to blame to deny warranty coverage.
 
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Hmm. Directions said 80ft lbs. I was definitively careful not to cross thread. Didn’t feel any thing out of the ordinary so should be all good.
80 ft lbs would be way over torqued.

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BTW, the fore upper control arm which is forward and a little lower than the aft would also have to be shimmed out or the toe will move inward a lot for just a little bit of outward movement on the aft upper link.

Fortunately the refresh 2021+ suspension design has a huge amount of rear toe adjustment range unlike the previous design which had a very limited range, but make no mistake, the toe must be adjusted if you lengthen just the aft upper control arm.
 
BTW, the fore upper control arm which is forward and a little lower than the aft would also have to be shimmed out or the toe will move inward a lot for just a little bit of outward movement on the aft upper link.

Fortunately the refresh 2021+ suspension design has a huge amount of rear toe adjustment range unlike the previous design which had a very limited range, but make no mistake, the toe must be adjusted if you lengthen just the aft upper control arm.

Hmmm, so if you don't shim the fore upper control arm, will you introduce more bump steer with these shim kits and adjustable control arms?
 
Hmmm, so if you don't shim the fore upper control arm, will you introduce more bump steer with these shim kits and adjustable control arms?

Too complicated to say without more analysis of the placement and lengths of each of the upper and lower control arms.

I always like to point people to this video when discussing bump steer....which btw gets massively more complicated when talking about front suspension because turning dynamically changes the tie rod length relative to the control arms which means the amount of bump steer as the wheel goes up or down will change based on the steering angle and NOT evenly between the left and front tires.

 
Several questions:

1) Do you shim BOTH upper arms? Because if you're only shimming one, then the toe will change and need to be adjusted.
2) Can you explain why longer bolts aren't needed since the shims reduce the number of threads on the bolt mating with the cradle. The outside wheel, in a turn, will experience a lot of pull and there will be fewer bolt threads grabbing.
We provide our shims and the instructions necessary to keep your same toe without an alignment visit. Factory bolts are overkill long. They are actually mid grade bolts designed to fail before other components. The bolt is designed fail before the subframe and arm.
 
-1.0 works much better. I had the shop set mine to -1.5, they launched it a couple of times and changed it to -1.0 and handles better in a straight line.
Camber sensitivities are not linear and every setup is a compromise in one way or another. We push things back to where they should have come from the factory to a region where everything is better where the car actually operates.
 
Yea so I noticed I was slowly losing air in both of my rear tires (2022 Model S Plaid w/ 10k miles) Here is a picture of the inner edge of my tire I took this morning after speaking with the mobile service guy in my area. I asked about there being a camber issue and he basically told me that they wont replace this and I would need to get a new tire (he recommended the all weather tire if it was available for the 21" wheel). I am a little confused with how I proceed here. Suppose I will start with reading 50 pages in this thread.

Plaid tire.jpg
 
Just took off my PZero winters after 16k miles, Look great no uneven wear and insides look great. About 6/32's left according to tire place, We discussed this thread and they see no signs of this on the Pzeros.

They put back on my PS4S. Tire place said they saw no signs of this happening on these and they are wearing evenly. They have approx 6/32-7/32" left on each. If I remember correctly, there is 7-10k miles on these.
 
Yea so I noticed I was slowly losing air in both of my rear tires (2022 Model S Plaid w/ 10k miles) Here is a picture of the inner edge of my tire I took this morning after speaking with the mobile service guy in my area. I asked about there being a camber issue and he basically told me that they wont replace this and I would need to get a new tire (he recommended the all weather tire if it was available for the 21" wheel). I am a little confused with how I proceed here. Suppose I will start with reading 50 pages in this thread.

View attachment 927186

Can you post your alignment sheet?
 
Yea so I noticed I was slowly losing air in both of my rear tires (2022 Model S Plaid w/ 10k miles) Here is a picture of the inner edge of my tire I took this morning after speaking with the mobile service guy in my area. I asked about there being a camber issue and he basically told me that they wont replace this and I would need to get a new tire (he recommended the all weather tire if it was available for the 21" wheel). I am a little confused with how I proceed here. Suppose I will start with reading 50 pages in this thread.

View attachment 927186
Save the tires and contact Michelin at their 800 number for a credit under warranty. You'll probably have to bring the tires to a discount tire or similar. Tesla won't help.
 
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Save the tires and contact Michelin at their 800 number for a credit under warranty. You'll probably have to bring the tires to a discount tire or similar. Tesla won't help.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^This^^^^^^^^^^^^

Tesla has next to zero support for Michelin's chronic tire failures, but they'll gladly sell you a new set of rear tires for well over $1k . . . as they have for so many already.

To get new tires at Michelin's expense simply file a claim here, or via their telephone number:


Eventually you'll get a set of replacement Michelin OEM tires (they are often on back order--hmmm, I wonder why?) and you should only have to pay a token amount of money for mounting and balancing the new tires, usually around $40 or $50 total.

*****Of greater importance: someone is going to get hurt when one of these tires lets go at high speed.*****

These tires need to be off the road and replaced, via a NHTSA safety recall, ASAP. To get a recall NHTSA needs DATA; let's help get them the data they need as only a small percentage of people will follow thru--most people just buy new tires and move on. PLEASE file a formal input here; it only takes a minute or two:


Thanks!