I used to have the inner edge wear problem with NON OEM Michelins in both 21" & 20" sizes but that stopped happening when I had the adjustable camber and toe arms installed.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Plaid 21” rear tire woes - factory defect?
- Thread starter KOL2000
- Start date
I used to have the inner edge wear problem with NON OEM Michelins in both 21" & 20" sizes but that stopped happening when I had the adjustable camber and toe arms installed.
Let me guess, are they all Michelin? Just kidding.
I'm sure they are not without even looking at the thread. Big, heavy, powerful EVs can be tough on tires. Add in suspension settings to help them make the "numbers" that a lot of people want to see (lateral grip, slalom, etc.) and tire wear can suffer as a result.
I'll go read the Lucid thread and see what their issues are.
emailforbrett
Member
They are OEM 21” Pirelli tires causing their premature destruction. Ironically, one poster points out that Michelin is coming out with a PS4 tire for their Lucid and they can’t wait to see if it lasts longer than their Pirellies!
It‘s an interesting read. I went on the Lucid forum because I’m contemplating getting rid of my Tesla and moving on. I wanted to see what issues the Lucid was experiencing. Turns out all the cars are the same. None are without faults and many of the faults are the same across different brands. They have the same premature tire failures (not present in the 19” size), same software glitches, same rattles, same suspension issues where they swear the car isn’t adjusting in various modes, etc. It‘s like reading TMC over there.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
Well, not spending $250k for that for a while then... Also, the nearest lucid service center is 8 hours away. I'm annoyed about all my Tesla service visits and they are only 20 minutes away.They are OEM 21” Pirelli tires causing their premature destruction. Ironically, one poster points out that Michelin is coming out with a PS4 tire for their Lucid and they can’t wait to see if it lasts longer than their Pirellies!
It‘s an interesting read. I went on the Lucid forum because I’m contemplating getting rid of my Tesla and moving on. I wanted to see what issues the Lucid was experiencing. Turns out all the cars are the same. None are without faults and many of the faults are the same across different brands. They have the same premature tire failures (not present in the 19” size), same software glitches, same rattles, same suspension issues where they swear the car isn’t adjusting in various modes, etc. It‘s like reading TMC over there.
emailforbrett
Member
Yeah, I looked at that, as well. I’m in Orlando and the closest service is in Palm Beach….about 4 hours away. Not to mention the lack of supercharging for road trips. I get frustrated with my Tesla, but there really is no comparable replacement when you take a holistic view at all that goes into owning an EV.
Rivian owners too. No one seems to understand it’s not ‘conserve mode’ that ends front tires on a riv… it’s the toe curve being absolutely insane at the extremes of ride height.
Much like a model 3’s tendency to toe out under compression. Mitigate your issues as if you were a race team trying not to blow the budget on consumables.
Or just buy toe links and handle your problem the right way? Or set the car in the ‘adjust speed’ button to ‘never’ rather than ‘always’, align the car at medium and properly set rear toe.
Easy way to show y’all that this is an issue, set your front toe to the same as the rear, watch you wipe frony tires on par with the rears.
You do have a choice. Click on suspension menu, see the ‘adjust speed’ button? Click, set to never. Boom, car will stay at height you set. Align there. Ditch toe out , go sliiiiiiightly IN(.1 or .19) or zero. —matching left to right.
match your neg rear camber to the same as well, side to side, per axle.
Your problems will disappear. You will hit 6-10k miles more and think you didn’t drive the car by looking at the lack of visible wear.
This isn’t magic. This is very much common knowledge. As evident by the first link in a google search.
As far as toe before and after not matching. Toe will go out of spec from garbage roads/curb feeling/parking brick bumping and generally daily driving. However, there isn’t a ‘keyed’ place for the alignment heads to be installed on. You can only compare the before to after per alignment job.
Last edited:
You right at my flip flop of pos/neg. Fail while at the track for the last few days.
Excessive Toe out or in will wipe tires.
Zero toe on these cars will have little to no effect when daily driving them. You’re not drag racing, as long as thrust angle is 0 you’ll be fine
Attachments
n2mb_racing
Active Member
I think you may have manually selected medium while you were driving the car and that's where your confusion is coming from. The car defaults to low automatically when it reaches 70mph, on every new drive, unless you physically click the button each time.
If your car is currently in medium, don't touch the button and pull the suspension screen up on the display, then go drive the car. It will go into low automatically, unless you physically have pressed medium during that specific drive.
This is not some anomaly, it's baked into everyone's computer. Yours also does not have the anomaly of being able to override it.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
n2mb_racing
Active Member
I double-checked this on my drive today. Mine drops to low at 55 or 60 mph. As soon as I got on the highway. I don't have any setting to prevent it. I'm on 2023.7.20.
The only option I have is to default to low all the time. I am 2023.26.8.
As a result, I just set my alignment while in low. Not to mention, based on what I've read here, being in the higher settings tends to exacerbate the problem with the halfshafts. So damned if you do, damned if you don't, unless you take care of the rear camber and alignment. Then riding in low doesn't wear out the tires and you minimize halfshaft wear.
As a result, I just set my alignment while in low. Not to mention, based on what I've read here, being in the higher settings tends to exacerbate the problem with the halfshafts. So damned if you do, damned if you don't, unless you take care of the rear camber and alignment. Then riding in low doesn't wear out the tires and you minimize halfshaft wear.
They may have lowered the setting to that speed, I'm not certain. It's been a while since I've used medium.
headcase
Member
I've conducted numerous tests. The lowering is not based on speed... it is triggered when you enter onto a highway. GPS.
Interesting. I never thought of that because I usually only hit 70+ on a highway.
Will have to test this in a bit.
While English may not be my first and/or primary language… reading it isn’t difficult.
I suppose mine, on FSD Beta, must be some magical vehicle that does things that tesla vehicles do?
Attachments
not sure. I’ve been on FSD beta with 5 camera(rear view mirror, fender mounted, pillar mounted) upgrade for quite sometime and have never not had this option.
I'm not sure what year you have, but here is the manual for mine (2021+). Those options aren't listed and don't show up on my screen.While English may not be my first and/or primary language… reading it isn’t difficult.
I suppose mine, on FSD Beta, must be some magical vehicle that does things that tesla vehicles do?
Model S Owner's Manual | Tesla
Learn how to customize the suspension settings on your vehicle.
www.tesla.com
Similar threads
