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Plaid 21” rear tire woes - factory defect?

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“The wear has anything to do with camber”. Camber is inarguably associated with abnormal wear, in general. All one needs to do to understand the relationship easily, is to examine what might happen at an extreme ridiculous example… let’s say, -45 degrees of camber. One could argue, and I suppose you do, that in our current situation, camber does not play a role. I don’t know whether it does or not, but from a physics perspective, it certainly *could* be related.

You are aware as well as I am that this is reductio ad absurdum. No one is talking about stanced cars here. The discussion is revolving around what are typical camber ranges on street driven cars. Within that framework, reducing the degree of negative camber will almost always impair handling to some degree. I say almost always because I’m sure someone can find some edge case and then claim that is a complete and utter refutal of the argument.

It would be highly unusual for camber to cause wear such that it would cause completely even tread wear and then separation at the inside edge. That seems much more likely to be tire defect.

“That the wear has nothing to do with the Tesla-spec PS4S despite those being the only tires to show this issue”. The issue certainly could have something to do with the tire itself, but given the failure mode, I believe it to be very unlikely to be a tire failure. Also, since these tires are optional on the plaid, it would be difficult to disentangle all of the variables associated with the failure without doing some experiments on other vehicles.
Sure, but what we do know is that the Plaids (and LRs) on the 19” wheels/tires do *not* manifest this issue. That seems to be handwaved by many including @Sam1 despite the alignment being identical between the two. If this was a toe issue or even some combination of camber/toe, the 19s should exhibit *some* irregular wear, even if you accept that the 21s are hit worse due to their lower profile nature (something I am not convinced about as the 21s are not particularly low profile compared to tires on other vehicles within this class).

Also to note, I do not claim to precisely know what the issue with the Michelins is. Only that I do believe there is an issue with those tires, and that perhaps said issue can be mitigated with a less aggressive alignment, even if the root cause of failure is the tire itself.

I can only speculate as to what the problem with the tires is, if that is indeed the issue. Perhaps load rating (the Michelin 21s have a lower load rating than either the all season or summer 19s offered). But that is conjecture on my part, and I do not claim that is definitively the issue.
“That $2k on camber arms is needed to correct improper toe.” I don’t think anyone is claiming this. Toe is adjustable on a stock 2023 Tesla Plaid, and if anyone thought that the problem is exclusively toe, they would simply have the toe adjusted. People (like me) buy $1,300 adjustable camber arms to have the ability to dial in camber, not to correct improper toe. Perhaps you are being a bit sarcastic with your statement and I am taking you too literally; one of the dangers of being an engineer with a Ph.D. I suppose.
Cool, you have a doctorate, so do I. Just a lowly MD in my case. Nevertheless, if you go back through the 73 pages in this thread, there are several that claim the arms are de facto required to fix this issue. Far too many to list out here in the post.

“That reducing negative camber won’t have a negative impact on handling, all else equal”. This statement is overly broad. There are, inarguably, cases where reducing negative camber improves handling… think back to my corner case above. Camber changes, whether negative or positive, can improve or degrade handling depending on the state of camber on the vehicle in question.
Addressed above. My argument was and remains that if you take a given car, reduce its camber by a degree (or any other value you pick), it will handle worse (to be more precise, it will have less grip when cornering). That does not mean camber will be the sole factor to determine how well a car will handle (that is to say a Model S will not handle better than a 911 despite apparently having more camber), and that is also not to say that setting an absurd degree of camber like -45° will invariably improve handling.

There is, I think, a tendency in online forums to overly simplify arguments in order to make a point. People do not have the time, or the knowledge, to write a dissertation quality response to an online post. It is much easier to simplify and use anecdotal evidence to support the simplified argument; this almost always results in errors.

Joe

Sure. And that is what the entirety of this thread is. I do not see compelling evidence that this problem is purely a function of bad alignment.
 
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@terranx wrote: Cool, you have a doctorate, so do I. Just a lowly MD in my case.

The world needs professional degrees more than it needs Ph.Ds. LOL. My wife is a physician, and I always indicate, when people see Drs. West, that she is the REAL doctor. If it were not for dealing with patients, I would have liked to be an MD. After watching my wife deal with patients, no chance in hell that I would be an MD… unless it was an anesthesiologist and my interactions with them consisted of:

“Now, count backwards from 10”

I use corner cases to more clearly define relationships. In engineering, this is a great way to work through potentially complex issues quickly.

While tires might be an issue (I am far from a tire expert), I would guess that the issue is alignment. Shortly, I will post my pre and post alignment numbers.

Joe
 
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Do you have any thoughts as to why the 19” cars aren’t impacted if the primary issue is alignment?

Wasn't going to respond but since you specifically tagged me...

I've already stated exactly why they are not. But you don't care to consider that someone may actually know what they're talking about if it disagrees with your personal opinion.

If you had even a small amount of experience with racing, you would be able to look at how the small thin strip on the inside corner looks clean and is free of the brown road sediment or debris. This is because it is doing what's called "scrubbing" or being drug across the surface more so than the rest of the tire, and that's why it's cleaner. And since it's on the inside of the tire, that means that toe out is causing the scrubbing. Toe in scrubbing would be on the outside, but not as pronounced unless the tire has excess positive camber, since negative camber transfers the weight to the inside of the tire.

A tire with a more rounded profile and taller sidewall distributes the focal point of the force (in this case, the thin section being dragged along the asphalt) to a larger area because of its shape and pliability. That's why the 21" see it and 19" don't. If you want an elementary school version of how this works, take the palm of your hand and press against a rough concrete floor with 20 pounds of pressure and drag it across 12 inches. Then put the tip of your first finger on the same concrete with 20 pounds of pressure and drag it across the same 12". Let us know which one causes more damage.

And finally, on the "model x isn't a model s". actually, the entire suspension system is nearly identical, they use effectively the same skateboards with the main difference only being the top of the vehicle. And the reason you haven't see other 21" tires with the same issue on the S is because they only sell the plaid with PS4S tires, and those of us running different tires have more than likely already had alignments to address the issue.
 
Yes, I do.

I am guessing that Tesla does not actually align their vehicles at the factory using an alignment machine, but rather, they are “Aligned by design”. Meaning that using the worst case tolerance stack up, Tesla is confident that the alignment will be correct (within their specifications) “as built”. One subtle indication of this is Tesla’s overly broad (in my opinion) alignment specifications. The range of what is allowable is in certain cases, larger than what I (as an engineer) think is acceptable, but the broad range makes sense if the range is defined by component tolerance stack up.

Tire and wheel specifications impacts alignment, and it just so happens that the 21” rear tesla wheels have a larger offset and width than their 19” counterparts (only the offset is different on the 21” front wheels, and it is smaller than the 19” wheels) increasing the scrub radius relative to the 19”. An increase in scrub radius, combined with stiffer sidewalls could result in the issue we are seeing IFF (If and only if) Tesla uses alignment by design. I am ignoring other tire and wheel dynamics that could have an impact.

I have not tried to find out how Tesla aligns their vehicles at the factory so the above is nothing more than a guess on my part.

Joe

Do you have any thoughts as to why the 19” cars aren’t impacted if the primary issue is alignment?
 
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Just to add to the fray… most of us are here to discuss and learn. Terranx you simplify everything to a 0 or 1. Camber, toe, dynamic change, tire design etc all play a part. Changing one affects the other. There are many solutions and results possible. You even sound like you disagree with me when I make the same points you do.

Turning toe in to compensate for dynamic toe out will certainly extend tire life and solve many owners biggest problem. For those of us dropping the ride height it’s certainly prudent to either shim or get adjustable arms, either camber or lower control arms. Lastly, it’s also possible to replace the rubber bushing that allows the flex in the first place.

Understanding the whole picture should be the goal but instead people want to point a finger at their favorite perpetrator.
 
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On the flip side, I do get super frustrated with the “how do I keep my car in high to stop my tires from shredding on the inside” crowd… with the “you have to buy these camber arms” and “it’s the same problem since 2012” responses.
 
I have not tried to find out how Tesla aligns their vehicles at the factory so the above is nothing more than a guess on my part.

Joe
Luckily I have access to an inside source that sent me this photo of the guy that does the alignments.

_168e5b33-d64b-48ce-9366-12f44969e17b.jpeg
 
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Here are the before numbers. I made a pin-jig to set the length of the adjustable arms to the exact same length as the factory arms, so the before numbers you see here should reflect the factory alignment of my Tesla. Both pre and post alignment numbers were done with the suspension in the low setting.


image.jpg



And the after alignment numbers:

image.jpg


Note: The left rear tire with toe-out was failing more than the right rear tire, but both were failed.

Joe
 
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Here are the before numbers. I made a pin-jig to set the length of the adjustable arms to the exact same length as the factory arms, so the before numbers you see here should reflect the factory alignment of my Tesla. Both pre and post alignment numbers were done with the suspension in the low setting.


View attachment 1001861


And the after alignment numbers:

View attachment 1001862

Note: The left rear tire with toe-out was failing more than the right rear tire, but both were failed.

Joe

If the sheets are correct, your left suffered more scrubbing because the thrust angle is to the right.
 
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Wasn't going to respond but since you specifically tagged me...

I've already stated exactly why they are not. But you don't care to consider that someone may actually know what they're talking about if it disagrees with your personal opinion.

If you had even a small amount of experience with racing, you would be able to look at how the small thin strip on the inside corner looks clean and is free of the brown road sediment or debris. This is because it is doing what's called "scrubbing" or being drug across the surface more so than the rest of the tire, and that's why it's cleaner. And since it's on the inside of the tire, that means that toe out is causing the scrubbing. Toe in scrubbing would be on the outside, but not as pronounced unless the tire has excess positive camber, since negative camber transfers the weight to the inside of the tire.

A tire with a more rounded profile and taller sidewall distributes the focal point of the force (in this case, the thin section being dragged along the asphalt) to a larger area because of its shape and pliability. That's why the 21" see it and 19" don't. If you want an elementary school version of how this works, take the palm of your hand and press against a rough concrete floor with 20 pounds of pressure and drag it across 12 inches. Then put the tip of your first finger on the same concrete with 20 pounds of pressure and drag it across the same 12". Let us know which one causes more damage.

And finally, on the "model x isn't a model s". actually, the entire suspension system is nearly identical, they use effectively the same skateboards with the main difference only being the top of the vehicle. And the reason you haven't see other 21" tires with the same issue on the S is because they only sell the plaid with PS4S tires, and those of us running different tires have more than likely already had alignments to address the issue.
There are others in this thread alone who ran different tires without getting aftermarket suspension arms without seeing the same wear.

I could buy the 19s manifesting the issue more slowly if alignment were the main issue. I can’t buy them wearing perfectly normally under the same conditions that shred the 21s in under 10k miles without the 21s being faulty in some way.

You’re not the only person here who’s raced cars.
 
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Yes, I do.

I am guessing that Tesla does not actually align their vehicles at the factory using an alignment machine, but rather, they are “Aligned by design”. Meaning that using the worst case tolerance stack up, Tesla is confident that the alignment will be correct (within their specifications) “as built”. One subtle indication of this is Tesla’s overly broad (in my opinion) alignment specifications. The range of what is allowable is in certain cases, larger than what I (as an engineer) think is acceptable, but the broad range makes sense if the range is defined by component tolerance stack up.

Tire and wheel specifications impacts alignment, and it just so happens that the 21” rear tesla wheels have a larger offset and width than their 19” counterparts (only the offset is different on the 21” front wheels, and it is smaller than the 19” wheels) increasing the scrub radius relative to the 19”. An increase in scrub radius, combined with stiffer sidewalls could result in the issue we are seeing IFF (If and only if) Tesla uses alignment by design. I am ignoring other tire and wheel dynamics that could have an impact.

I have not tried to find out how Tesla aligns their vehicles at the factory so the above is nothing more than a guess on my part.

Joe
Alignment is actually independent of tire and wheel specifications. You can swap wheels all day and the measured alignment. Unless you’re trying to say something else?

Also according to Tesla, the front and rear offsets are identical between the 19s and 21s. The tire widths themselves are 10mm smaller. Which would also make the sidewalls also ever so slightly shorter (but not as short as the 21s).


Has anyone with the all season 21s had this failure?

And has anyone done an alignment without resorting to aftermarket arms and fixed the wear?
 
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Because the 19’s don’t see the same stress on the inner corner for all the reasons Sam pointed out, they don’t reach the failure point as easily. Your conclusion that they wear perfectly normally comes from where? You just won’t let go
 
Because the 19’s don’t see the same stress on the inner corner for all the reasons Sam pointed out, they don’t reach the failure point as easily. Your conclusion that they wear perfectly normally comes from where? You just won’t let go
My conclusion comes from there not being a single documented case of camber/toe wear on the 19s. I’m not letting it go because none of you can provide a reason why the 19s don’t wear abnormally at all and misinformation paraded as fact is a pet peeve of mine. Alignment impacts all tires. The rate at which they fail might differ. But we should at least see uneven wear. And we just don’t. There isn’t a single instance of the 19s failing with a typical camber or toe wear issue documented in this thread. Similarly, there doesn’t appear to be a single instance of the factory all season 21s exhibiting the same wear pattern.

It just doesn’t make sense for this to be purely an alignment issue and not see any of the other wheel/tire combinations on this car fail.
 
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There are others in this thread alone who ran different tires without getting aftermarket suspension arms without seeing the same wear.

I could buy the 19s manifesting the issue more slowly if alignment were the main issue. I can’t buy them wearing perfectly normally under the same conditions that shred the 21s in under 10k miles without the 21s being faulty in some way.

You’re not the only person here who’s raced cars.

Who specifically is running different tires that had the wear issue with PS4S previously, made no changes, and no longer sees the wear issue with the same exact spec tire with the same exact mileage amount?

And you're correct, I'm definitely not the only person with a couple of decades of various types of racing under their belt in here. But what I can say is that you would've came to the same conclusion within seconds after seeing the first photo of the wear if you had a fraction of that experience, that's how I know for certain you do not.
 
Who specifically is running different tires that had the wear issue with PS4S previously, made no changes, and no longer sees the wear issue with the same exact spec tire with the same exact mileage amount?

And you're correct, I'm definitely not the only person with a couple of decades of various types of racing under their belt in here. But what I can say is that you would've came to the same conclusion within seconds after seeing the first photo of the wear if you had a fraction of that experience, that's how I know for certain you do not.
This guy is running the T0 spec winters with stock suspension and no abnormal wear. He's made a few posts through the thread Plaid 21” rear tire woes - factory defect?.

And I cannot find a single instance of the T0 spec Goodyear All-seasons failing either.

I have plenty of experience. I know tire wear patterns. This is not normal. If you had a fraction of the experience as you claim, you would realize that camber wear tends to manifest differently -- gradual shoulder wear until the tread is worn down. Not perfectly even wear until the tread separates. You would also realize that poor alignment manifests on *all* tires, not just low profile tires.

THIS is more typical of camber wear

1703193933875.png


This on the otherhand is more likely a defective tire

1703193960625.png
 
This guy is running the T0 spec winters with stock suspension and no abnormal wear. He's made a few posts through the thread Plaid 21” rear tire woes - factory defect?.

And I cannot find a single instance of the T0 spec Goodyear All-seasons failing either.

I have plenty of experience. I know tire wear patterns. This is not normal. If you had a fraction of the experience as you claim, you would realize that camber wear tends to manifest differently -- gradual shoulder wear until the tread is worn down. Not perfectly even wear until the tread separates. You would also realize that poor alignment manifests on *all* tires, not just low profile tires.

THIS is more typical of camber wear

View attachment 1001881

This on the otherhand is more likely a defective tire

View attachment 1001882
What were the toe settings for the examples above? I’m sure he’s pushing his winter tires really hard off the line.
 
@terranx - I do not disagree with you that it is “possible” that the PS4S tires are failing; while they are not directional, they are asymmetric, which suggests that there could be an edge specific manufacturing failure. This said, Michelin has been producing tires since 1888 (Michelin | French Tire Manufacturer & Restaurants Guide). I think that after 135 years of tire production, Michelin, in general, knows how to make a tire. Their tires are CAD designed and analyzed, and then road endurance tested.

Think about this. Tesla is known for cutting corners to save a penny, Tesla vehicles are significantly more complex than a tire, and complexity is positively correlated with failure rates (ignoring redundancy, since it is not a factor here). Armed with the data I need, I could calculate the MTBF (note that failure for a tire does not include wear failure outside the normal wear range) for both the tire and the Tesla. The Tesla is more likely to fail than the tire.

To summarize; yes, it is possible that these failures are precipitated by the tire design. However, from an engineering perspective, even ignoring Tesla’s propensity to cut corners to save money, the Tesla is more likely the source of the failure than the tire.

Joe
 
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What were the toe settings for the examples above? I’m sure he’s pushing his winter tires really hard off the line.
Not sure how you would expect me to know that when I'm just giving you representative samples (the bottom one being an actual Model S with the T0 PS4S I believe). We do know that many model S have the failure pattern in the lower pic, while pretty much every other car with bad camber has a failure pattern more similar to the top pic.

Now if your contention is that the issue is more dynamic alignment changes under power (which still would not explain the 19s not showing the issue), then the proper fix would be replacing whichever bushing is causing a problem with a ball joint or something along those lines, rather than compromise the static alignment in an effort to keep things where you want them under power.

@terranx - I do not disagree with you that it is “possible” that the PS4S tires are failing; while they are not directional, they are asymmetric, which suggests that there could be an edge specific manufacturing failure. This said, Michelin has been producing tires since 1888 (Michelin | French Tire Manufacturer & Restaurants Guide). I think that after 135 years of tire production, Michelin, in general, knows how to make a tire. Their tires are CAD designed and analyzed, and then road endurance tested.

Think about this. Tesla is known for cutting corners to save a penny, Tesla vehicles are significantly more complex than a tire, and complexity is positively correlated with failure rates (ignoring redundancy, since it is not a factor here). Armed with the data I need, I could calculate the MTBF (note that failure for a tire does not include wear failure outside the normal wear range) for both the tire and the Tesla. The Tesla is more likely to fail than the tire.

To summarize; yes, it is possible that these failures are precipitated by the tire design. However, from an engineering perspective, even ignoring Tesla’s propensity to cut corners to save money, the Tesla is more likely the source of the failure than the tire.

Joe

I have no doubt that many Model S' come with a poor alignment from the factory. I just have a doubt that it's only the 21" models or that the same alignment can cause catastrophic failures on the Michelins but have pretty much normal wear on everything else.

Now googling around a bit, it does seem like inner wear is actually a bit more widespread on the PS4S (even non-Tesla) than I expected. So perhaps it's just a weakness of the tire and the weight + power + alignment are exacerbating it.

This is an i4

1703196123591.png



Mustang
1703196229443.png


911 Carrera T
1703196270162.png


There are other examples out there
 
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