He said one of his coworkers ordered that part and corrected the problem with another Model S .
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Plaid center console light turns off when fully opened?
- Thread starter electrongofast
- Start date
Daniel454
Member
Others have replaced that and it NOT fix the issue. I still say its a supplier issue, whoever is supplying the console is at fault so luck of the draw if the replacement has it or not. Chances are good though that the issue has been out long enough that MOST of the stock should be good now but who knows.....
I don't believe anyone has gotten this issue fixed at a service center. Swapping switch connections did make it work better as was shown in William G's video but this certainly not how it 'should' be working. My console was then 100% replaced and this put it back to the original state. To me, everything points to a logic flaw in the controller (possibly firmware programming).
A closed lid should disable ALL Lighting, both lower bin and tray lighting.
A fully open lid should enable the lower lighting in every configuration EXCEPT if BOTH cup holder and slide tray are visible.
Slide tray should only be lighted when extended and NOT COVERED by the LID in its middle position (half open).
Here is the wiring diagram (ignore markups) for your diagnostic pleasure, hopefully it remains readable:
A closed lid should disable ALL Lighting, both lower bin and tray lighting.
A fully open lid should enable the lower lighting in every configuration EXCEPT if BOTH cup holder and slide tray are visible.
Slide tray should only be lighted when extended and NOT COVERED by the LID in its middle position (half open).
Here is the wiring diagram (ignore markups) for your diagnostic pleasure, hopefully it remains readable:
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That's exactly how mine works after the SC fixed it. Took him a few days until he figured out that one switch was different than the others but now it works perfectly.
I thought the switches only detected the fully stowed position for the small tray and lid. Basically the car knew if they were either fully open or not fully open. Nothing in between like half open vs fully open with a simple switch. Good to know there is also a cupholder switch, no light there so they definitely intended to have some more advanced logic.
Edit: something is up with the diagram, the control pin labeled c2 says high side drive (voltage) but it runs to a switch with no load, no led like the other drive lines. Might be a dynamic pin but I'd think that should be a sense line for the front bin switch.
Edit: something is up with the diagram, the control pin labeled c2 says high side drive (voltage) but it runs to a switch with no load, no led like the other drive lines. Might be a dynamic pin but I'd think that should be a sense line for the front bin switch.
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n2mb_racing
Active Member
In the diagram, is it showing that the switches are in series with the LEDs or is that just a connector or junction?
3 switches at the bottom feed directly into the controller. The controller evaluates these three conditions and decides when to provide voltage to each of the two LED drive circuits, (BIN and TRAY). The BIN circuit drives 2 LED's in parallel. The TRAY circuit also a switch in series that blocks power to the TRAY LED when it is stored. In all cases that I've read about so far, the TRAY switch is working fine.
Did he say how it was different and what exactly he did to fix it? Part replaced, re positioned, swapped connector pins, etc..?
I sure would like to know the details..
There appears to be an inline connector junction in series with each circuit, X982 and X983.
Yes, C2 is a logic input state to the controller. The wording is confusing but I think maybe it was intended to show it has primary inhibit authority over the BIN Drive circuit path.
He said that 2 of the switches are ON when pressed, while the 3rd was OFF when pressed. He then said he had to look around to find the right part, but it wasn't quite clear if they were supposed to be all the same but were as described or if they are supposed to be as described and were all the same.
sandman1330
Member
Interesting. Had the car in service today for something unrelated, but had put in a ticket for this earlier. They had told me it was working as intended at that time.
Today while it was in, they called me and said they’d received more information about this and wanted to keep the car longer to troubleshoot it. Now they have parts on order and a new appointment to get this fixed.
Nice to have them acknowledge it, and to do so without me even bringing it up again. Now to see if the new parts fix it….
Today while it was in, they called me and said they’d received more information about this and wanted to keep the car longer to troubleshoot it. Now they have parts on order and a new appointment to get this fixed.
Nice to have them acknowledge it, and to do so without me even bringing it up again. Now to see if the new parts fix it….
Maybe, I'd think they'd just call it a sense line unless that was the existing call out for that pin on the left side body controller schematic. Could be a common part for x/s or even 3/y with different functions. Based on the wiring and assuming the controller can be updated via ota, they should be able to work this with firmware then, just swap the normal state of the lid switch from NO to NC or the opposite. look for ground instead of open circuit for just that one line.
The only light that is directly activated by a switch is the small tray, and they even have some logic control there via the drive line.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
Yeah, that's my fear, eventually they'll "fix" it via software and then all of us that fixed it via hardware will have it wrong again.
Could you possibly post a video of how yours is working correctly in every configuration?
As I said before, I believe that the video offered by WilliamG showing how it should work is mistaken. It would be good to have a better example to confirm what is what.
For another data point. Mine worked on delivery (June 3, 2021 build) exactly as the video by @WilliamG . It stopped working correctly after the top of the center console was replaced. After a service appointment it now works as it originally did. I am sure this is how it is supposed to work.
From inspection, the switches and harness wiring are not attached to the lid. The whole console upper section is a complete module. Sandy Monroe's group showed what it looks like all torn appart. Too bad they only talked about the mechanical features; the wiring and switches were already removed.
I looked inside the enclosed cavity where the lid slides into and took a photo using a bore-scope. It was taken with the lid fully forward (closed). There are two switches associated with the lid position. One is halfway in and the other is all the way towards the back. They appear to be simple lever switches that get actuated by the sliding lid.
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@WilliamG 's video shows that the lower bin is only illuminated when the lid is fully opened. This cannot be correct. I say this because this simple operation can be accomplished using only 1 lid switch and 1 tray switch (2). We know for a fact that there are 4 switches involved. There is a switch for the cup holder position and one for the half-opened lid position detector. These sensors should have a functional effect on the lighting scheme. They don't in Williams video.
I like data points however I remain a skeptic. Most of the data so far indicates a majority that all work the same. i.e. wrong.
WilliamG
Hinge Fanatic
I’ve not heard of anyone’s new S working “better” than this. Happy to be proven wrong, of course.@WilliamG 's video shows that the lower bin is only illuminated when the lid is fully opened. This cannot be correct. I say this because this simple operation can be accomplished using only 1 lid switch and 1 tray switch (2). We know for a fact that there are 4 switches involved. There is a switch for the cup holder position and one for the half-opened lid position detector. These sensors should have a functional effect on the lighting scheme. They don't in Williams video.
I like data points however I remain a skeptic. Most of the data so far indicates a majority that all work the same. i.e. wrong.
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