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Plaid Radar Detector install with switched power

Yup, just confirmed that wasn't the issue by doing a swap. Will spark up a dialog with with Valentine One.
Same issue here with a Gen 2 Valentine One. Tried swapping everything including my other Gen 2s and still will not start up all the time. Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. Lots of discussion on the internet but no solutions. I have reached out to Valentine One also. Please post what they tell you.
 
May I ask what you've read about this that gave you pause? I'm about to head down this road myself but haven't been able to find anything.
There was some speculation regarding the monitoring of the electrical circuits since the refreshes have some sort of electronic fuse system instead of a normal fuse box and thus is supposedly more sensitive to changes in electrical demand on a circuit. At least one poster tapped a wire in the mirror area and his car kept on throwing errors that went away when the tap was removed. However, several others at this point have tapped with no ill effect. It would certainly be easier to do that than to run a wire through the interior. From owning another Tesla for several years and personally experiencing the downfall of the service experience, I would rather be safer than sorry and on the off chance I do have some weird gremlin pop up in my car, I don't want Tesla to try to blame any sort of wiring modification I have done. I know that is far fetched but it is worth it for the piece of mind to be able to unplug the RD should I have any problems in the future.

I am sure you won't have any problems. Let us know how it goes.
 
Thank you for this @alb! Used this to install my radar detector today, and appreciated the instructions for the A-pillar. I used an OBD splitter from Amazon, spliced pins 4 and 16 into one side, soldered 2 diodes to lower the voltage a bit, and ran the wire up and through the mirror shroud. Works fantastic and shuts off immediately when closing the door. And I still have an OBD connector if needed! Thanks again.
 
Thank you for this @alb! Used this to install my radar detector today, and appreciated the instructions for the A-pillar. I used an OBD splitter from Amazon, spliced pins 4 and 16 into one side, soldered 2 diodes to lower the voltage a bit, and ran the wire up and through the mirror shroud. Works fantastic and shuts off immediately when closing the door. And I still have an OBD connector if needed! Thanks again.
Happy to hear my tutorial was helpful and nice to see your modifications to use the obd port. Posts like these have helped me over the years so I always want to contribute my share back to the community.
 
Question for the people with detectors: do you keep laser detection enabled?

I'm not sure if it's something in the car setting it off, or if a bunch of cops around me are using laser now, but it goes off a LOT more than it did a couple years ago with my Camaro. Does something in the new model S use laser that might set that off?
 
Question for the people with detectors: do you keep laser detection enabled?

I'm not sure if it's something in the car setting it off, or if a bunch of cops around me are using laser now, but it goes off a LOT more than it did a couple years ago with my Camaro. Does something in the new model S use laser that might set that off?
The newer cabin camera is augmented with 2 infrared LEDs for low-light, but that hasn't been of any issues with my Valentine-1 Gen2.

What radar detector are you using?
 
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How do you pass the wire into the center console? I can’t find a way for cable to go either on driver or passenger (preferred) side. I took off the inductive cell charging pad but found no extra room to pass through. Also - could not get an area to pry to right center console side cover to pop off - it’s on very tight. Worried I’ll break all clips

Thank you
 
How do you pass the wire into the center console? I can’t find a way for cable to go either on driver or passenger (preferred) side. I took off the inductive cell charging pad but found no extra room to pass through. Also - could not get an area to pry to right center console side cover to pop off - it’s on very tight. Worried I’ll break all clips

Thank you
The center console side panels can be pulled away (strong clips; use pry tool). That’ll allow access to the inside compartment from the front and just behind the moving storage tray. Use a coat hanger wire to help guide you through.
 
How do you pass the wire into the center console? I can’t find a way for cable to go either on driver or passenger (preferred) side. I took off the inductive cell charging pad but found no extra room to pass through. Also - could not get an area to pry to right center console side cover to pop off - it’s on very tight. Worried I’ll break all clips

Thank you
I was able to get it through without removing the charging pad. If you work the other way and looking for a small opening in the inside back corner of the center console, you can push a wire through from the inside of the console to the area under the dash and find the path that way.
 

mswlogo

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2018
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@alb First thanks so much for sharing and posting.

Did you need to remove the whole A-Pillar cover or just the top section?

You may have routed right past the Brake Controller connector in the foot well :)
You went through all that trouble and still use a cigarette lighter socket.
The Cigarette lighter sockets almost always wiggle loose eventually since it is spring loaded to push outward, I would have tapped the back of it.

I've been using the V1 Gen2 standard cord in the Cigarette Lighter Socket until I get it wired.
Something is very weird about the power in that socket.
The V1 Gen2 is very fussy on power. If it comes on, then off for a moment then on, the V1 will get into a bad state.
It worked fine on Mirror Tap on Model X Raven but's not happy with the Cigarette Light Socket.
 
@alb First thanks so much for sharing and posting.

Did you need to remove the whole A-Pillar cover or just the top section?

You may have routed right past the Brake Controller connector in the foot well :)
You went through all that trouble and still use a cigarette lighter socket.
The Cigarette lighter sockets almost always wiggle loose eventually since it is spring loaded to push outward, I would have tapped the back of it.

I've been using the V1 Gen2 standard cord in the Cigarette Lighter Socket until I get it wired.
Something is very weird about the power in that socket.
The V1 Gen2 is very fussy on power. If it comes on, then off for a moment then on, the V1 will get into a bad state.
It worked fine on Mirror Tap on Model X Raven but's not happy with the Cigarette Light Socket.

I pulled the complete pillar cover away which you can see best in the fourth picture I posted. Since then some people said they have done this without pulling off the cover at all.

By the way you mentioned I went through all that trouble to use the cigarette lighter socket. That way my whole goal with this project. I didn't want to tap in to anything as to avoid any pushback from Tesla if I were to have electrical issues, and I wanted to have access to the mute/memory button on the cigarette lighter adapter from Redline. If I was going to tap I could have gone to a mirror tap or many sources along the way from obd to the wires that power the wireless charger. I haven't had any issues using the Redline 360c with this method. I wonder if it's a Valentine1 issue you're seeing.
 
You may have routed right past the Brake Controller connector in the foot well :)
My car didn't have the brake controller! I think they had it in plaids built at certain dates but not others. I got the connector from Tesla but when I went to look for the brake controller I couldn't find it. Other members had a similar issue with not finding it so it must be based on build date.
 
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