Rear Axle Click: Ultimate DIY Fix

[vogz]

Correct

So there's no oil where the splines slide into the reduction gear/differential?

 

[Occhis]

I have a front axle click, that clicks with a speed correlating with wheel speed. Could be same thing up front? Seems to happen only when turning.

That sounds like CV joint, which would require half shaft replacement.

 

[DFW_MVP]

So there's no oil where the splines slide into the reduction gear/differential?

It didn't feel or look like it on my Dec 2018 build w 50k miles.

 

[vogz]

It didn't feel or look like it on my Dec 2018 build w 50k miles.

Interesting. I'm curious what the design is. I'll likely take mine apart this summer to eliminate the minor clicking that I'm getting under hard acceleration from a stop.

 

[Enigmahorror]

I tried this in my performance model but I could not get to the splines maybe I did something wrong? I took all bolts out and it did give the axel a few inches of play but I could blintzes see the splines

Are the performance models much different?

 

[DFW_MVP]

I had to use a pry bar to pop the inner splines/axle out from the drive motor.

 

[Yperformance]

Have a model Y with shudder so need to change CV s , for the cost of repair at SC since car is modded, My guess is that I could change them three or four times with Chinese imports for the cost. Before you all raise your hands , ha, looking at the Model X and S sites the replacement OEM ones Tesla uses keep failing as well. Bit of a s..t show really, Any thoughts on doing the take down and install, my car is already a Lego set. Last thing did the fluids need topping up or I there no fluid lost on dismantling.

 

[DFW_MVP]

No fluids are lost when removing the axles.

 

[Perscitus]

OE parts (select driveline, suspension, bushings, wheels, plastic trim, dash components, etc) are mostly MiC as well, so little or no harm in considering replacing CVs, endlinks, control arms, bushings) with MiC or else generics.

You might actually get an unbranded OE supplier part, or end up with something better (HD, OEM+) than stock.

 

[tarmour]

Is this the same issue you were experiencing?

I bought my car on coilovers. I don't believe it has anything to do with that it's just a high torque car with drying up axle Grease. I'm hoping Tesla service center handles this under warranty.

 

[SteelClouds]

Those coil overs can void the warranty at the SC discretion. I’ve been told a few times they are not allowed by policy to work on modded cars. So they won’t touch suspension issues with the coil overs. They would work on ac or wiring for example. I had some butchered wiring from a prior owners poor attempt at speaker upgrades and because they soldered the wires directly to the speakers and the ranger could not unplug the door card, he flagged it, told me the policy and did me a favor anyways by installing a new door handle. A friend with coil overs was told to come get his car without the work needed because he “modded” the car. So don’t be surprised

 

[dsims369]

All,

I've been looking on here for sometime now but this would be my first contribution. Thank you all for providing such useful content. I hope this helps others.

Anywho.... I've had the rear clicking since I purchased my used Model 3 (sleeper performance model). With the windows open, it is extremely noticeable on acceleration and regen and was getting on my nerves. So, I wanted to put my warranty to use and get service to look at it but in the Denver metro area that meant waiting a month and a half for a service appointment and then dropping the car off for 4 days without a loaner.

So, I stumbled around looking for articles on what other were told by the dealer as a fix and it was a mixed bag. However, it seemed to be a mix between loosening axle nuts and corrosion/issues with the splines on the axle itself. I have repeatedly retorqued the axle nuts and the sound returned. So, to take the overkill approach this is what I did.

Tools Needed:

• Breaker bar
• Torque Wrench capable of 185 ft/lbs
• 10mm 17mm 18mm sockets and wrenches
• WD-40
• Soft wire brush
• Loctite LB8012 (or other metal free low friction lubricant) as suggested by the following link
  • Axle Spline Fix! ... How to save $2.5K
• Red Loctite

Steps:

1. Set parking break, loosen rear wheels, and jack the rear of the car up. (I did one side at a time)
2. Remove wheel
3. Remove the Axle Nut (32mm). Parking break was able to hold enough for me to loosen with a breaker bar
4. Remove the abs sensor with a 10mm socket.
5. Remove the upper control arm, trailing arm, and lower front control arm (mix of 17 and 18mm bolts/nuts). Make sure to mark the orientation of the upper control arm bolt as this sets the rear camber.
6. This allowed enough movement for the axle to be pulled from the hub. It wouldn't come all the way out but I was able to wedge the axle against the backside of the hub to hold it to work on the axle splines.
7. Clean axle splines and inner hub with WD-40 and soft wire brush. I spent a good amount of time doing this to ensure there was no debris or old grease left on either the splines or inside the hub mating surfaces. You can spin the axle to allow ease of cleaning around all splines.
8. Spread a liberal amount of the low friction lubricant on the axle splines and rear mating surface. This will squeeze out but also create a barrier to prevent moisture or debris from making it into the surfaces if this was the cause of the noise.
9. Reinstall axle back into hub and reconnect suspension in reverse. I found it helpful to put a jack stand under the lower control arm and lower the car (or raise this with a jack) to counter the spring and allow everything to be put together easier. I did apply some antiseize to the bolts as a few had some corrosion. Good preventative measure should anything need to come apart again later in the car's life.
10. Torque bolts to spec? Unless someone has a good reference, I searched and came up with good guesses on torque at 90ish ft/lb for the upper control arm bolt (camber bolt, and remember to orient it back correctly to avoid an alignment) and 65ish ft/lb for the (2) other bolts.
11. Reinstall abs sensor.
12. Reinstall axle nut with red Loctite. Torque to 185 ft/lbs.
13. Reinstall wheel, lower car, and torque wheels to 135 ft/lbs
14. Enjoy your click free car.

Again, this may be overkill and maybe red Loctite with retorquing the nut would have ultimately worked for me. However, I'm 1000+ miles in and have yet to hear a peep out back. Back so silent, brutal acceleration.

Hope this helps someone that is in my previous situation. If anyone has good torque values for the rear suspension, I will update the post.

Awesome write-up, thanks for posting! I have this issue with both of my rear axels and I've greased & regreased the outer splines (per this video

) several times only to have it come back by the next day or 2, and sometimes same day.

Hopefully greasing the inner splines will finally rid me of this annoying noise!

 

[tarmour]

Those coil overs can void the warranty at the SC discretion. I’ve been told a few times they are not allowed by policy to work on modded cars. So they won’t touch suspension issues with the coil overs. They would work on ac or wiring for example. I had some butchered wiring from a prior owners poor attempt at speaker upgrades and because they soldered the wires directly to the speakers and the ranger could not unplug the door card, he flagged it, told me the policy and did me a favor anyways by installing a new door handle. A friend with coil overs was told to come get his car without the work needed because he “modded” the car. So don’t be surprised

I would always challenge them. Under the Magnuson-Moss Act, a dealer must prove, not just vocalize, that aftermarket equipment caused the need for repairs before it can deny warranty coverage. If the dealer cannot prove such a claim — or it proffers a questionable explanation — it is your legal right to demand compliance with the warranty...

I told Tesla SC about my coilovers. They repaired the Axle clicking because it clearly had nothing to do with the coilovers.

 

[zoomer0056]

Awesome write-up, thanks for posting! I have this issue with both of my rear axels and I've greased & regreased the outer splines (per this video

) several times only to have it come back by the next day or 2, and sometimes same day.

Hopefully greasing the inner splines will finally rid me of this annoying noise!

I flew out one way ticket to Sedona AZ to pick up a 1996 Corvette quite a few years ago. It was beautiful aqua color. I had been getting emails with pics and asking questions for weeks. Yeah, it's gonna be mine and bought a one way ticket. I test drove and was ready to trade for $. Then driving into the parking lot, I heard a click as speed was reduced. Did you hear that, he said yes. It clicked whenever it decelerated. They tore apart the whole drive train, still clicking. They couldn't figure it out in six hours! He called a retired mechanic who said to grease the axel into wheel spline. Clicking gone!!! I had the car for many years and never a click did I hear.

 

[.Slug]

My 2022 Performance has the click/clanging noise and the SC just told me its the axle splines (car is at SC in Costa Mesa now). They are charging me $66 for the fix stating that its a "maintenance issue" and refusing to cover under warranty. My car has 32K miles and is still under the full factory warranty. I requested that they show me in the owners manual where it says to re-lube/grease the axle splines as normal maintenance and his response was "I haven't read the manual." Seems like this should be required reading for a Service Adviser and be aware of recurring maintenance schedules contained therin.

Since it was obvious what I'm dealing with and up against, I just said fine and will pay the $66 for the axle maintenance (seems like they are treating this sort of like an oil change given the low price). I've owned about 15 cars in my lifetime and I"ve never heard of having to regularly lube axle splines as normal maintenance.

Thankfully, during the same visit they will be fixing my passenger side door strap (which has popped/clicked since new) at no charge.

 

[Dave EV]

This seems to be a more common issue on EVs because of regenerative braking - my '11 Nissan LEAF did this quite noticeably after a few years (never did get around to greasing the axle splines) and now my '18 Model 3 is doing it (not quite annoying enough to fix, yet).

For $66, I would probably opt to just have the shop do it instead of myself, it's really not a bad price!

 

[navguy12]

This seems to be a more common issue on EVs because of regenerative braking - my '11 Nissan LEAF did this quite noticeably after a few years (never did get around to greasing the axle splines) and now my '18 Model 3 is doing it (not quite annoying enough to fix, yet).

For $66, I would probably opt to just have the shop do it instead of myself, it's really not a bad price!

Its a know issue with early build TM3’s.

I paid for mine to be done once (long past the bumper to bumper warranty); click returned about six months later and my local service center redid the job for free.

 

[Cyber-Rhino]

After doing the brake burnishing procedure through service mode on my Model 3, I started hearing a metallic clicking sound coming from the rear driver's side wheel from time to time. At first I thought it was the brakes. After months of researching, I started thinking it was an "axle click." After coming across Jon Osborne's super helpful video (further up this thread) on how to fix the clicking sound, I decided to try it. I did have to invest in some new tools, like an impact wrench, torque wrench, an air compressor, a brass drift (lol), and literally everything that was used in the video. It worked like a charm. Thanks Jon! It's been two weeks and no clicking. Personally, I thought it was the axle nut washers clicking together if not tightened to proper torque.