My cinch motor is sounding sicker and sicker with each closing. I have no doubt it will fail soon. Sad thing is it was making this sound before the warranty expired but I just figured that latch needed lubrication. Anyone know what the cinch and latch cost for just the parts? I'm near Fremont.
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Rear trunk won't open
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MikeBur
ManualPilot
Sorry to hear @sorka - parts are listed here (Rear trunk won't open), though no prices as I just still under warranty. I’d talk to the service center/corporate as this is appearing more like a known fault. Similar to the power steering bolts, though not serious enough for a safety recall. If you do pay, I strongly recommend you to keep the receipts in case this does become recall item - and then you’d be reimbursed.
At Tesla in Fremont now. Buying hatch clips since I'll probably break some. They're $1.20 each. They're checking prices on parts from service invoice posted earlier in this thread. I'll remove the latch assembly this weekend and see if I can FA the part. If the prices aren't that bad, I may just buy them outright and replace them. Really don't want it to fail while closed.
Uh oh. I was just telling someone earlier this week how often I use the powered lift gate, and how I had heard of few if any failures, in contrast to the frequent failures of door handles! I hope I did not speak too soon. Sounds like another potential post-warranty problem lurking in the proverbial shadows....
I removed the liftgate panel. No broken clips. Also turns out I didn't need to buy any clips. They're identical to a bag of Toyota clips I already have. So now I have extra.
The latch is riveted together so there's no servicing it. It looks complicated inside. Lots of parts. The cinch motor assembly does come apart and is very simple inside so if the problem is there, it's the motor itself. Since others have reported not being able to release the latch with the emergency release cable which goes directly to the latch, my money is on the latch itself being the issue which is $64 for that part.
I will probably just replace the latch only and not pick up the cinch motor assembly. If that part fails, it won't prevent you from opening the hatch so I can always replace it later. If the latch fails shut, then you're screwed hence the amount of labor and panel trim breakage required to get into it.
The latch is riveted together so there's no servicing it. It looks complicated inside. Lots of parts. The cinch motor assembly does come apart and is very simple inside so if the problem is there, it's the motor itself. Since others have reported not being able to release the latch with the emergency release cable which goes directly to the latch, my money is on the latch itself being the issue which is $64 for that part.
I will probably just replace the latch only and not pick up the cinch motor assembly. If that part fails, it won't prevent you from opening the hatch so I can always replace it later. If the latch fails shut, then you're screwed hence the amount of labor and panel trim breakage required to get into it.
MarkS22
Member
I had this happen and they had to replace the mechanism. The emergency release didn't work for me either.
If I'm remembering properly, it was explained the latch motor has multiple (3?) phases. If it dies in the middle, the trunk can't open or close. Basically, it closes around the latch and begins to pull down, but the motor locks up as it's pulling down. You'll probably note the trunk is very slightly ajar, to the point you can see a sliver of light through the crack. It dies before it could pull the trunk to the fully closed position. And, as mentioned above, the emergency release won't budge no matter how much you pull it.
They sent out a ranger and had it fixed either same day or the next day. One part was out of stock locally and they even had someone Uber it in from a Service Center in the next state, just to make sure it was fixed quickly.
If I'm remembering properly, it was explained the latch motor has multiple (3?) phases. If it dies in the middle, the trunk can't open or close. Basically, it closes around the latch and begins to pull down, but the motor locks up as it's pulling down. You'll probably note the trunk is very slightly ajar, to the point you can see a sliver of light through the crack. It dies before it could pull the trunk to the fully closed position. And, as mentioned above, the emergency release won't budge no matter how much you pull it.
They sent out a ranger and had it fixed either same day or the next day. One part was out of stock locally and they even had someone Uber it in from a Service Center in the next state, just to make sure it was fixed quickly.
That's interesting. I hadn't considered that the cinch motor might fail part way through resulting in the latch not working with the emergency release cable.
I suspect the new latch was redesigned to work with the emergency release cable regardless as it would be a safety issue. Strongly suspect we'll see a recall on this eventually.
Given your post, I think I'll just stick with replacing the cinch motor and latch after all rather than just the latch.
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MarkS22
Member
100%power
TESLAU2
After i hand washed car wash yesterday ,tried to use lift gate , push switch on trunk fail to open, heard 2 beeps , inside same as everyone else, shows as open , won't do not lock and loss of auto pilot . Mgf Dec. 2016 . Only one thing noticed large gap at top where window gate meets top window. And seems at bottom very tiny gap is this normal or possible hinge gape maybe needing adjusted ?? See attached pic. And Wandering if everyone else has same condition as far gap condition. Thanks
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Forgot there were two threads on this.
My repair result in the other thread:
Rear Liftgate Latch replacement (2017)
It's been a week and all is still good. My guess after looking at the gears in the old cinch motor is that since they looked perfect without any sign of wear or binding that the issue is the actual electric motor in the cinch assembly.
My repair result in the other thread:
Rear Liftgate Latch replacement (2017)
It's been a week and all is still good. My guess after looking at the gears in the old cinch motor is that since they looked perfect without any sign of wear or binding that the issue is the actual electric motor in the cinch assembly.
100%power
TESLAU2
100%power
TESLAU2
I heard only one other person that purchased clincher motor and latch he paid 150.00 for parts he did not break any clips or plastics or molding which could happen and would have been a lot more cost and time,Plus he said you almost have to be a contortionist to get back there to replace it. I wish you best of luck if you are replacing it your self.
100%power
TESLAU2
Just a update on my Sept 2 post reguarding my Rear door failure. It’s 2016 mfg date 12/16 . Fail right after hand car wash. Got ahold of repair and told them closest service center in miles in Toronto Canada and i live in Michigan. Told her that I been there twice already for other issues. She said that service ranger will call me back n . Been 4 days no respond yet. I will press them on Tuesday if I don’t hear from them. Anyone else has same gap issues on rear trunk Assembly . See pics from Sept 2 post I really wish someone would Compile all repair data for each model to see if any patterns show up.Wonder if they would let someone see all the service logs to do this. Ya big laugh out loud
In my case it was just the cinch motor. Fortunately replacement is trivial if you catch it before it fails as you don't have to break trim apart from within a closed interior just to get to the darn thing.
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